How to: Change steeringrack/F to TF rack, LHD car but usefull for RHD to. :) - MG-Rover.org Forums

MGFNorway · 03-05-2009, 21:51

Hello all. Just some quick pictures to give something back to the MG community as a small thank you for all you help, especially Stephan (Herbie)

Alright, I now have a new TF rack to fit to my 1999 MK1 F. These are my thoughts and solution. (I apologies for my english in advance, I hope you understand me despite typos and bad sentences.

)

My car is a LHD car, but I think this is usefull info for my friends in the UK as well, just think " oposite". Will try to take into account that most of the members are from the UK and note this when I comment my pictures.

Note: If you have a TF and are doing a swap, follow the directions under, me having an F and installing a TF rack had some problems, more info will follow at the end.

PLEASE don't fiddle with you cars steering if your not at least 90% sure of what you are doing, and or have a friend/mechanic that can help.

PLEASE use axelstands and secure your car!

You need to have a four wheel alignment done after this.

Tools needed:

Steelbrush
10/12/13/17 and 19 mm spanners.
WD40 or similar.
Some screwdrivers.
Something to measure with.
A piece of paper and a pen.
Treadlock/Locktite
Small hammer.
One good friend
Tea and or a couple of pints.

New trackrod ends. (Not needed really, but this would be a good time to change them.) Mine was new 9 month ago from MS, and they where in terrible shape..

Quick tip: lubricate the track rod ends a couple of days in advance to make it easyer to get off.

And again, secure your car!

All right, here we go:

Jack up your car, secure it and remove both front wheels. Remove spare wheel, tools and the large plastic cover under the bonnet.

Make sure your steering wheels is in normal "straight forward" position.

In the drivers footwell, peel back the carpet.

Quick tip: Lubricate the steering column(spelling?) with WD40 or similar.

Brush off any rust and dirt from the trackrod ends, lubricate again.

Remove the bolt using a 10mm spanner or similar.

The steering column itself is "telescopic", it can move up and down in case of an accident. Use A large scredriver or similar to lift it away from the steering rack.

Measure the threads to get a app. distance of how much the trackrod ends needs to be screwed in. This does not mean that a 4 wheel aligment is neccasary, but at least you will get there.

Write this down on a piece of paper, you guys know we tend to forget things.

Unscrew the trackrod ends using a 19 mm spanner.

Unscrew the trackrod itself using a 17 mm spanner.

Tap it gently with a small hammer. DO NOT DAMAGE the rubber seal.

Remove nut and count the turns needed to screw the track rod out. Write this down on the same piece of paper. Repeat procedure on the other side.

Under the bonnet, locate the two 13 mm bolts that clamp the steering rack to the body and unscrew them. Looking down that would be on the left hand side for you UK guys, and on the right hand side in the pictures (LHD).

On my left hand side looking down in the bonnet, use a 13mm spanner to hold the nut and another 13 mm spanner to unscrew the bolt. As before, this would be on the right hand side for you UK boys and girls.

There is a plastic cover, perhaps for sound isolation sorrounding the steering rack.

Remove 3 10mm bolts and pull towards you into the drivers footwell.

The steering rack should now be free from the steering column. Have a friend help you remove it, pull it towards you. From the left hand side of the car (LHD) or from the right hand side (RHD).

Insert the new one.
Please note that I had some trouble getting pass this cable (1), unclip it (2) and have a mate help you with this part of the job.

MGFNorway · 03-05-2009, 21:52

Looking down into the bonnet, loosly tighten the bolts on the left hand side (LHD) or on the right hand side (RHD). To not overtight, it's just to hold it in place, it still needs some "free play". Please use some treadlock on the nuts.

Closeup on the clamp and bolts.

Tighten the clamp and bolts on the right hand side (LHD) or right hand side (RHD), use treadlock.

Tighten the clamp and bolts on the oposite side (The ones you have loosly screwed together.

Reattach the (preferable) new track rod ends, look at you notes and screw in as many turns as before. (1) My trackrod ends are almost new, but both(!) are in bad nick, I'm thinking about complaining to MS.. They both need to be changed before my 4 wheel aligjnment..

Hot tip: Release new clip (2) on the new steering rack, lubricate with WD40 to make it glide better.

Tighten the bolts on the trackrodends, use a bit of treadlock on both.

Say hello to the local deer family that came to visit in the middle of the job.

Reattach the 10mm bolt that holds the steering column to the steering rack by sliding it down and the plastic bit with the 3 x 10mm bolts.

Thats it. If you own a TF and are planning to change your rack..

If you own a F and are changing it, it was a few more problems.
First of all, the steering wheel would not align correct, it was very much off..

I think, again "think" this could have something to do with this beeing a TF rack. It was 180 degrees wrong (pic1). I had to Measure and align both track rods so they where the same distance (turns) from the steering rack. Unscrew the steering wheel, adjust it and reattach it. It was a bit more tricky, but doable.

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT, PLEASE DO CENTER THE STEERING RACK.

To remove the wheel, simply unscrew the 2 x torx screws ( I'm sorry, I don't remember the size..

) to release the airbag, them remove the 19mm nut on the steering rack. Please see Andys excellent how to for further information.

Hot tip/You need to know this: It's hard for me to explain this in english, but the airbag is connected to this unit, it follows the moment of the steering wheel, but if you turn it to many times it could snap, so please note your steering wheels position, and do not alter this more than neccesary.

I hope this post can be usefull to the memebers of .org and other places. Again, be carefull and always secure your car.

A special thank you to Pete, and Pete's site. To Andy, and the allmighty Herbie for his excellent service providing me with this part and saving me a lot of money.

I would be happy to answer any questions, either by PM or email, please do not hesitate to ask.

At the end, two pictures comparing the LHD car to the RHD, as you see, it looks very much the same, only "opposite".

I hope this would be usefull to all my friends in the UK.

Right hand side, looking down into the bonnet:

Left hand side:

Please note that this post might be altered as I discover typos, and errors.

Edit: The reason for doing this job, it seems that my lovely MG is one of the few cars that then needs to change the whole steering rack just because one joint i loose, the "inner" one had some slack in it, and therefor I had to do this job.:

Edit2: Shiny new part, complements from Herbie! :

Herbie · 03-05-2009, 22:06

That's a cracking guide Morten, one for Petey's Hall of Fame methinks

(I like the zoomed details in some pics and the nosy deer

)

Glad you finally had the time to fit the it, fascinating as I've got this part in my hand

I did the centralisation like you did as described for the F, rotated the steering wheel from completely left to right, counted the whole turns and back on the half mark I fitted the track rod ends to both rack ends with the same distance on both threads. After that I went to the tyre shop and got it aligned properly.

MGFNorway · 03-05-2009, 22:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Herbie

That's a cracking guide Morten, one for Petey's Hall of Fame methinks

(I like the zoomed details in some pics and the nosy deer

)

Glad you finally had the time to fit the it, fascinating as I've got this part in my hand

I did the centralisation like you did as described for the F, rotated the steering wheel from completely left to right, counted the whole turns and back on the half mark I fitted the track rod ends to both rack ends with the same distance on both threads. After that I went to the tyre shop and got it aligned properly.

It's all becuse of you mate.

The least a could do was snap a couple of pictures for the rest of the MG world to see.

Thanks mate.

I forgot to mention, the whole job took about 4 hours. And there is no difference between cars with PAS and without as the unit is located further up on the steering column.

I really do notice the difference, much sharper cornering with the TF rack, full lock with about one and a half turn on the wheel.

I'm one happy Norwegian Stephan, much thanks to you!

Herbie · 03-05-2009, 22:19

Will be even better when you've got the tracking done and the steering wheel completely centered. Glad to be of service mate

Is your F now ready for the Norwegian TÜV ?
(... and prepared for MGFIM in September

)

MGFNorway · 03-05-2009, 22:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Herbie

Will be even better when you've got the tracking done and the steering wheel completely centered. Glad to be of service mate

Is your F now ready for the Norwegian TÜV ?
(... and prepared for MGFIM in September

)

Not yet my friend, still need to recieve my rear track rod end.. But almost..

You might remember my story with MGBreaker.. (Still have to drive around in a 94 Citroen ZX, BUT it does have a .org sticker in the back window.

)

Yes mate, I still have one week holiday to spare, so thank you very much.

Stephan, would you provide me with a PM with details? It's very tempting as i seem to miss MGFest this year...

Dan Coupe · 03-05-2009, 23:20

Fantastic write up and great pictures

designad · 03-05-2009, 23:28

Great How To! I'll be keeping the link to that one in my files. Love the BSA in the background, and don't quite understand why you're not eating venison pie

Fast Jan · 03-05-2009, 23:36

Fantastic write up and pics

Petevick · 04-05-2009, 08:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by Herbie

That's a cracking guide Morten, one for Petey's Hall of Fame methinks

......

it certainly is a cracking guide

- http://www.mgf-tf-central.co.uk/ht-r...-gear.htm#rack

MGFNorway · 04-05-2009, 19:55

Thanks guys and girls.

I knew about the existing how to, but I think it's always usefull to have other thoughts and pics. Thank you again.

Herbie · 09-05-2009, 08:42

I'd like to add that the label with the part number on the new rack must be wrong or the false one as this is definitively the newest rack available (it's the number from the F one if anyone checks with the EPC, TF one is QAB000250)

I have checked back and have the same rack fitted like Morten. Definitively the newest one available for LHD where lesser turns are needed to get it to full left or right. Today I panicked and had quite a few phone conversations. I thought I sent Morten a false one

as I bought his rack from here.

All is well and you can go on trusting me

(thx Dieter for startling me on that matter !)

gotenks1321 · 09-05-2009, 09:27

Great writeup matey

Out of curiosity, how much did the rack cost you? Just had a quick look here and got a price of £279.80!

ErikB · 09-05-2009, 14:04

And the TF rack is off my wish list !!

Damn that's a hell of a job, with limited access and positions breaking your back. The F rack is just perfect and I don't really need the TF racK.

Great write up and pics.

Sjoerd24 · 08-06-2010, 14:54

Nice guide Morten.

I assume you specificly went for a TF rack opposed to a F rack, due to a different 'transmission' (say full-lock left to full lock right in 1.5 turns for the TF, in stead of 2 or more turns for the F)?

Rob Bell · 08-06-2010, 15:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sjoerd24

Nice guide Morten.

I assume you specificly went for a TF rack opposed to a F rack, due to a different 'transmission' (say full-lock left to full lock right in 1.5 turns for the TF, in stead of 2 or more turns for the F)?

From 3.2 turns lock to lock to 2.8 (RHD version how-to http://mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/DIY...rack/index.htm)

philmgf · 08-06-2010, 15:15

Excellent how to.
However if I were to contemplate the task i would get the deer to do it as they were watching the whole process and should be able to do it easily enough..

Seriously though. very useful how to as a guide to removing/inspecting the rack assembly wether its rhd or lhd..

Rep given....

Herbie · 08-06-2010, 15:18

Phil, sorry but Morten deserves rep not me, it was his excellent job and write-up

philmgf · 08-06-2010, 15:20

you helped too so both of you got it..

Herbie · 08-06-2010, 15:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by philmgf

you helped too so both of you got it..

Upps, how very kind, thank you Sir

03-05-2009, 21:51	#1
MGFNorway Mad Norwegian. Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Bergen, Norway Car: 1999 MGF 1.8 mpi Posts: 1,142	How to: Change steeringrack/F to TF rack, LHD car but usefull for RHD to. :) Hello all. Just some quick pictures to give something back to the MG community as a small thank you for all you help, especially Stephan (Herbie) Alright, I now have a new TF rack to fit to my 1999 MK1 F. These are my thoughts and solution. (I apologies for my english in advance, I hope you understand me despite typos and bad sentences. ) My car is a LHD car, but I think this is usefull info for my friends in the UK as well, just think " oposite". Will try to take into account that most of the members are from the UK and note this when I comment my pictures. Note: If you have a TF and are doing a swap, follow the directions under, me having an F and installing a TF rack had some problems, more info will follow at the end. PLEASE don't fiddle with you cars steering if your not at least 90% sure of what you are doing, and or have a friend/mechanic that can help. PLEASE use axelstands and secure your car! You need to have a four wheel alignment done after this. Tools needed: Steelbrush 10/12/13/17 and 19 mm spanners. WD40 or similar. Some screwdrivers. Something to measure with. A piece of paper and a pen. Treadlock/Locktite Small hammer. One good friend Tea and or a couple of pints. New trackrod ends. (Not needed really, but this would be a good time to change them.) Mine was new 9 month ago from MS, and they where in terrible shape.. Quick tip: lubricate the track rod ends a couple of days in advance to make it easyer to get off. And again, secure your car! All right, here we go: Jack up your car, secure it and remove both front wheels. Remove spare wheel, tools and the large plastic cover under the bonnet. Make sure your steering wheels is in normal "straight forward" position. In the drivers footwell, peel back the carpet. Quick tip: Lubricate the steering column(spelling?) with WD40 or similar. Brush off any rust and dirt from the trackrod ends, lubricate again. Remove the bolt using a 10mm spanner or similar. The steering column itself is "telescopic", it can move up and down in case of an accident. Use A large scredriver or similar to lift it away from the steering rack. Measure the threads to get a app. distance of how much the trackrod ends needs to be screwed in. This does not mean that a 4 wheel aligment is neccasary, but at least you will get there. Write this down on a piece of paper, you guys know we tend to forget things. Unscrew the trackrod ends using a 19 mm spanner. Unscrew the trackrod itself using a 17 mm spanner. Tap it gently with a small hammer. DO NOT DAMAGE the rubber seal. Remove nut and count the turns needed to screw the track rod out. Write this down on the same piece of paper. Repeat procedure on the other side. Under the bonnet, locate the two 13 mm bolts that clamp the steering rack to the body and unscrew them. Looking down that would be on the left hand side for you UK guys, and on the right hand side in the pictures (LHD). On my left hand side looking down in the bonnet, use a 13mm spanner to hold the nut and another 13 mm spanner to unscrew the bolt. As before, this would be on the right hand side for you UK boys and girls. There is a plastic cover, perhaps for sound isolation sorrounding the steering rack. Remove 3 10mm bolts and pull towards you into the drivers footwell. The steering rack should now be free from the steering column. Have a friend help you remove it, pull it towards you. From the left hand side of the car (LHD) or from the right hand side (RHD). Insert the new one. Please note that I had some trouble getting pass this cable (1), unclip it (2) and have a mate help you with this part of the job. __________________ Front fogs, Trophy splitter, 17" TD wheels on Toyo T1R, AP brakes, black badges, 52 mm TB, TF airbox, decat, Daytona exhaust, Trophy lights, mk2 Tbar, TF steering rack. Last edited by MGFNorway; 03-05-2009 at 22:55.

03-05-2009, 21:52	#2
MGFNorway Mad Norwegian. Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Bergen, Norway Car: 1999 MGF 1.8 mpi Posts: 1,142	Looking down into the bonnet, loosly tighten the bolts on the left hand side (LHD) or on the right hand side (RHD). To not overtight, it's just to hold it in place, it still needs some "free play". Please use some treadlock on the nuts. Closeup on the clamp and bolts. Tighten the clamp and bolts on the right hand side (LHD) or right hand side (RHD), use treadlock. Tighten the clamp and bolts on the oposite side (The ones you have loosly screwed together. Reattach the (preferable) new track rod ends, look at you notes and screw in as many turns as before. (1) My trackrod ends are almost new, but both(!) are in bad nick, I'm thinking about complaining to MS.. They both need to be changed before my 4 wheel aligjnment.. Hot tip: Release new clip (2) on the new steering rack, lubricate with WD40 to make it glide better. Tighten the bolts on the trackrodends, use a bit of treadlock on both. Say hello to the local deer family that came to visit in the middle of the job. Reattach the 10mm bolt that holds the steering column to the steering rack by sliding it down and the plastic bit with the 3 x 10mm bolts. Thats it. If you own a TF and are planning to change your rack.. If you own a F and are changing it, it was a few more problems. First of all, the steering wheel would not align correct, it was very much off.. I think, again "think" this could have something to do with this beeing a TF rack. It was 180 degrees wrong (pic1). I had to Measure and align both track rods so they where the same distance (turns) from the steering rack. Unscrew the steering wheel, adjust it and reattach it. It was a bit more tricky, but doable. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT, PLEASE DO CENTER THE STEERING RACK. To remove the wheel, simply unscrew the 2 x torx screws ( I'm sorry, I don't remember the size.. ) to release the airbag, them remove the 19mm nut on the steering rack. Please see Andys excellent how to for further information. Hot tip/You need to know this: It's hard for me to explain this in english, but the airbag is connected to this unit, it follows the moment of the steering wheel, but if you turn it to many times it could snap, so please note your steering wheels position, and do not alter this more than neccesary. I hope this post can be usefull to the memebers of .org and other places. Again, be carefull and always secure your car. A special thank you to Pete, and Pete's site. To Andy, and the allmighty Herbie for his excellent service providing me with this part and saving me a lot of money. I would be happy to answer any questions, either by PM or email, please do not hesitate to ask. At the end, two pictures comparing the LHD car to the RHD, as you see, it looks very much the same, only "opposite". I hope this would be usefull to all my friends in the UK. Right hand side, looking down into the bonnet: Left hand side: Please note that this post might be altered as I discover typos, and errors. Edit: The reason for doing this job, it seems that my lovely MG is one of the few cars that then needs to change the whole steering rack just because one joint i loose, the "inner" one had some slack in it, and therefor I had to do this job.: Edit2: Shiny new part, complements from Herbie! : __________________ Front fogs, Trophy splitter, 17" TD wheels on Toyo T1R, AP brakes, black badges, 52 mm TB, TF airbox, decat, Daytona exhaust, Trophy lights, mk2 Tbar, TF steering rack. Last edited by MGFNorway; 03-05-2009 at 22:41.

03-05-2009, 22:06	#3
Herbie Werder Supporter Join Date: May 2005 Location: Bremen, Germany Car: MGF 1.8i & MGTF 1:18 Posts: 12,129	That's a cracking guide Morten, one for Petey's Hall of Fame methinks (I like the zoomed details in some pics and the nosy deer ) Glad you finally had the time to fit the it, fascinating as I've got this part in my hand I did the centralisation like you did as described for the F, rotated the steering wheel from completely left to right, counted the whole turns and back on the half mark I fitted the track rod ends to both rack ends with the same distance on both threads. After that I went to the tyre shop and got it aligned properly. __________________ Stephan Hebert MGF 1.8i / 1998 MK 1 / HB-SH 718 / CAQ Daytona - 52mm TB - TF Steering Rack - Compliance Washers - Clear Indicators - Assorted Bling

03-05-2009, 22:19	#5
Herbie Werder Supporter Join Date: May 2005 Location: Bremen, Germany Car: MGF 1.8i & MGTF 1:18 Posts: 12,129	Will be even better when you've got the tracking done and the steering wheel completely centered. Glad to be of service mate Is your F now ready for the Norwegian TÜV ? (... and prepared for MGFIM in September ) __________________ Stephan Hebert MGF 1.8i / 1998 MK 1 / HB-SH 718 / CAQ Daytona - 52mm TB - TF Steering Rack - Compliance Washers - Clear Indicators - Assorted Bling

03-05-2009, 23:28	#8
designad Noone ever reads this bit Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Orstralia mate! Car: 98 MGF 1.8i Posts: 1,735	Great How To! I'll be keeping the link to that one in my files. Love the BSA in the background, and don't quite understand why you're not eating venison pie __________________ 1998 MGF 1.8i - Solar Red Stainless roll hoops & nipples, alloy knobage, 52mm alloy throttle body, lowered to 300mm, Viper Induction, Toyo R1R's, MS Slick Shift, shift light, TT Mk4, stainless decat. Member of MG Car Club of Queensland http://www.artxdesign.com.au/hillclimb.gif

03-05-2009, 23:20	#7
Dan Coupe Always Beer in my Fridge Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Cheshire Car: MG F (Mk II) & Rover Streetwise Posts: 2,174	Fantastic write up and great pictures

03-05-2009, 23:36	#9
Fast Jan is trying... Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Pontypool, South Wales Car: TF 160 Posts: 5,644	Fantastic write up and pics __________________ --- Experience is a journey, not a destination For Sale: 17" wheels & Toyo tyres

04-05-2009, 19:55	#11
MGFNorway Mad Norwegian. Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Bergen, Norway Car: 1999 MGF 1.8 mpi Posts: 1,142	Thanks guys and girls. I knew about the existing how to, but I think it's always usefull to have other thoughts and pics. Thank you again. __________________ Front fogs, Trophy splitter, 17" TD wheels on Toyo T1R, AP brakes, black badges, 52 mm TB, TF airbox, decat, Daytona exhaust, Trophy lights, mk2 Tbar, TF steering rack.

09-05-2009, 08:42	#12
Herbie Werder Supporter Join Date: May 2005 Location: Bremen, Germany Car: MGF 1.8i & MGTF 1:18 Posts: 12,129	I'd like to add that the label with the part number on the new rack must be wrong or the false one as this is definitively the newest rack available (it's the number from the F one if anyone checks with the EPC, TF one is QAB000250) I have checked back and have the same rack fitted like Morten. Definitively the newest one available for LHD where lesser turns are needed to get it to full left or right. Today I panicked and had quite a few phone conversations. I thought I sent Morten a false one as I bought his rack from here. All is well and you can go on trusting me (thx Dieter for startling me on that matter !) __________________ Stephan Hebert MGF 1.8i / 1998 MK 1 / HB-SH 718 / CAQ Daytona - 52mm TB - TF Steering Rack - Compliance Washers - Clear Indicators - Assorted Bling Last edited by Herbie; 09-05-2009 at 10:14.

09-05-2009, 14:04	#14
ErikB Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Antwerp, B Car: MGF Posts: 1,258	And the TF rack is off my wish list !! Damn that's a hell of a job, with limited access and positions breaking your back. The F rack is just perfect and I don't really need the TF racK. Great write up and pics.

08-06-2010, 14:54	#15
Sjoerd24 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2010 Car: Mini (The real one) Posts: 7	Nice guide Morten. I assume you specificly went for a TF rack opposed to a F rack, due to a different 'transmission' (say full-lock left to full lock right in 1.5 turns for the TF, in stead of 2 or more turns for the F)?

08-06-2010, 15:15	#17
philmgf On a mission Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Leyland home of great cars Car: MGF 2002 BRG. XJR1200, Bandit 600 s, gs500 x3, sr125 x3, ybr125 x2 VW Polo, peugoet 207, Posts: 3,391	Excellent how to. However if I were to contemplate the task i would get the deer to do it as they were watching the whole process and should be able to do it easily enough.. Seriously though. very useful how to as a guide to removing/inspecting the rack assembly wether its rhd or lhd.. Rep given.... __________________ How to make your own coolant alarm: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=307657 How to leave the "wonky clock club: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=363986 How to fit a boot grille: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=3672184#post3672184 Bertie wooster @ maniacs Last edited by philmgf; 08-06-2010 at 15:29.

08-06-2010, 15:18	#18
Herbie Werder Supporter Join Date: May 2005 Location: Bremen, Germany Car: MGF 1.8i & MGTF 1:18 Posts: 12,129	Phil, sorry but Morten deserves rep not me, it was his excellent job and write-up __________________ Stephan Hebert MGF 1.8i / 1998 MK 1 / HB-SH 718 / CAQ Daytona - 52mm TB - TF Steering Rack - Compliance Washers - Clear Indicators - Assorted Bling

08-06-2010, 15:20	#19
philmgf On a mission Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Leyland home of great cars Car: MGF 2002 BRG. XJR1200, Bandit 600 s, gs500 x3, sr125 x3, ybr125 x2 VW Polo, peugoet 207, Posts: 3,391	you helped too so both of you got it.. __________________ How to make your own coolant alarm: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=307657 How to leave the "wonky clock club: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=363986 How to fit a boot grille: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?p=3672184#post3672184 Bertie wooster @ maniacs

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