Throttle Cable Change - How To

[CJJ]

After putting up with a sticky throttle for the last year I thought I would try fitting a new cable.

The cable was around the £40 mark and was part no. SBB000280



The symptom was no control over the throttle in the first 1/2" of pedal movement. You would lightly press the throttle, nothing, so you would increase pressure until all of a sudden the throttle would operate. This would give it an on/off kind of feel and make it a pig in traffic.

The only tools I needed for this was a 10mm socket to remove the accelerator pedal, a pair of snips to remove any cable ties and a small screwdriver to help refit the bulkhead grommet.

The job takes about an hour and doesn't need the inspection panel removed.

First you need to open the boot and remove the engine cover/grill to gain access to the throttle body. You also need to raise the rear of the roof and remove the carpet and sound proofing if you have it.

Start by removing the adjustable clip that holds the cable outer at the throttle body. This just simply pulls towards you with a bit of force. This allows enough movement to remove the cable end from the throttle body.



Now push the throttle quadrant open with your left hand and hold it there



and manipulate the cable out of its groove



So that the nipple can be slid out and the cable end pulled free



Remove the cable from the clip that holds it to the engine bracket, close to the expansion tank



and pull the cable free of any obstructions.



It is now ready to pull through the bulkhead

Pull the bulkhead grommet from its hole, I had to cut the grommet as I have used it to feed other cables through that point, but you will only need to pull it out.



Wind the square plastic adjuster clip so that it falls loose onto the cable. This will make it easier to manipulate through the bulkhead holes.



Now pull the cable through the bulkhead hole, manipulating the adjuster as needed.



You now need to push the drivers seat forward, remove the carpet from down the edge of the door, and unclip the cable from the 4 white bulkhead clips. One of which is right at the top



There may also be a cable tie at the top, next to the seatbelt coil, that needs to be undone or cut.

The next 2 clips are down the side of the door slam panel



and the final one is next to the tunnel that runs along the side of the seat.

[CJJ]

Push the drivers seat back again and release the white clip in front of the seat side tunnel



and the cable can be pulled through. It might be an idea to tape the pedal end of the new cable to the old cable



and pull it through the tunnel. I didn't, but I then had to use a piece of wire to pull it through later.



and remove the cable from the final clip before the cable goes up under the pedals



You also need to cut/undo the 2 cable ties shown in the pic above.

Now remove the 2 carpet clips and peel back the carpet and sound proofing and hold out of the way. One of the clips is up near the stearing collumn.



I now found it easier to remove the throttle pedal from the bulkhead as I am not as flexible as some on here.

There are 2 10mm nuts holding the bottom of the pedal bracket



and one bolt at the top, holding it to the rest of the pedals



Once these are removed, the pedal can be moved forward to get better access to the clip that needs to be removed.



The spring clip just pulls off and the cable end pulls up and away to release it



The plastic retaining collar then just pulls out from the bracket
as shown above.

The old cable is now clear to remove and discard.

Make sure that the new cable is routed as the old one was and that there are no kinks or tight beds.

Push the new cable through the pedal bracket until it clicks into place



and put the cable end in place



securing with the spring clip.



Now refit the pedal, carpet and clip the cable back into place in the 2 white clips forward or the tunnel.

[CJJ]

feed the cable back through to the parcel shelf, refit the cable to the rear clips and refit the carpet beside the drivers seat.



Feed the cable through the bulkhead and fit the grommet. This is where the small screwdriver comes in handy, to push the grommet into place all the way around. Make sure it is securely seated as it will damage the cable if it comes out.



Fit the cable end into the throttle body as a reverse of removing it. Push the quadrant fully open, push the nipple into place, feed the cable into the groove and let go of the quadrant.



Refit the clip near the expansion bottle



and refit the adjuster.



You might have to remove the adjuster a few times and screw it backwards or forwards until you get the right tension on the cable. It shouldn't be too loose, but the quadrant should return fully against the stop when released.

I took Deepblue for a testdrive and it has transformed her. The throttle movement is smooth and there is no notchyness at all.

Job done.

If anyone has any tips, or a better way of doing things, then please feel free to add them.

[Petevick]

soooo, about publishing a Haynes stylee type manual...........

[CJJ]

Originally Posted by Petevick

soooo, about publishing a Haynes stylee type manual...........

Ah, you do it. I'll just have a percentage

[Petevick]

Originally Posted by CJJ

Ah, you do it. I'll just have a percentage

well in all honesty I am thinking of pulling all of your links together onto the "CJJ Pages"

[CJJ]

Originally Posted by Petevick

well in all honesty I am thinking of pulling all of your links together onto the "CJJ Pages"

Ooh, my own pages.

[Petevick]

don't get carried away, I did say "thinking about it"

[CJJ]

Originally Posted by Petevick

don't get carried away, I did say "thinking about it"

Hmmmph. Tease.

[sash]

yet again Clive shows the lesser mortals the way many thanks in advance.

[Broon]

Cheers CJJ. I think I might need that someday

[stuart2]

Very good info and i think this is the cause of my throttle problem

[Dr Dave]

Great write up!

Now watch the cables go on back order!

[Tim.]

Nice write up and great pics.

I found it easier to pull the old cable out from the engine end so as not to have to manipulate the adjuster through the holes. Then fed the new cable through from the engine bay.

Oh and I painted the throttle pedal bracket too.

[CJJ]

Originally Posted by Tim.

Nice write up and great pics.

I found it easier to pull the old cable out from the engine end so as not to have to manipulate the adjuster through the holes. Then fed the new cable through from the engine bay.

Oh and I painted the throttle pedal bracket too.

I actually did think of painting it, as you can see some little rusty bits, but I needed it back on the road for going to work that night.

A job for another time me thinks.

[darrenv]

Great guide, I could have done with it two weeks ago, when I re-fitted the airbox, I had access to the throttle bodies so thought I better replace the cable whilst I had access. Trying to undo the pedal box with the car stuck in the garage and unable to open the drivers door was a nightmare, thankgod no one was about with a camera!!!!!!!!!!!! ( had to adopt the "Kara position" legs in the air) Oooops I hope this doesn't stir up trouble

[tonydrussell]

Just want to say what a great article.......gave me the courage and know how to attack this job so thanks CJJ from Tony in southern spain.....enjoying MG fun in the sun this summer, (retired, living here, 61 with MGF toy !!) great website too.........

[CJJ]

I'm glad it helped mate.

Sounds like you have a good life going on there.

Now we have an excuse for a forum outing to Spain

[GettinBetter]

I have exactly the same problem you describe at the beginning of the 'How to', I thought I might try forcing some oil down the cable using the air line first. Thanks, for the heads up, great work, & very much appreciated.

[CJJ]

Originally Posted by GettinBetter

I have exactly the same problem you describe at the beginning of the 'How to', I thought I might try forcing some oil down the cable using the air line first. Thanks, for the heads up, great work, & very much appreciated.

The cable inners are ptfe lined so oiling is not recommended.