How to fit stainless steel braided brake hoses. - MG-Rover.org Forums

CJJ · 12-10-2009, 20:18

This guide can be used for upgrading your brake hoses to stainless steel braided hoses, or simply replacing with standard OEM hoses, the process is the same.

The brake hoses are the flexible pipes between the solid brake lines that travel from your brake master cylinder/ABS unit and the brake calipers themselves.

We need flexible hoses as you are connecting between the solid body, that doesn't move, and the wheel, which travels up and down on the suspension.

The problem with flexible hoses is that they will perish over time and could even start leaking. Also, the amount of pressure involved during hard braking can cause the hoses to expand like a balloon. This means that some of the pressure applied to your brakes under braking is used in expanding the hoses and not in the braking itself.

The worse the expansion, the more spongy your brakes will feel.
By shrouding the hose in a stainless steel flexible sheeth, you almost eliminate the expansion problem and all the braking force is applied to the brakes. This should give improved braking and feel.

I also paid the extra to get stainless steel end fittings and colour coded blue covering.

The new hoses.

and here is an old one alongside the new stainless steel one.

The first thing to do is jack up the corner that you are working on and use axle stands to stabalise the car. It is also worth chocking the wheels for safety. In this how to we will be doing the front wheel, but the rear wheels are fairly similar hose wise. The front and rear hoses are different sizes, so make sure you get them the right way around.

The hose is visible here behind the wheel. The hose is the thicker of the 2, the other being the cable to the ABS sensor (some cars may not have ABS).

Remove the wheel and you will see the disc and brake calliper.

Unclip the ABS sensor cable from the brake hose (if you have ABS) and release the spring clip that holds the top of the hose to the bracket on the subframe.

The clip should just pry off with a screwdriver.

Now you need to place a suitable container under the hub to catch any brake fluid that is released. Ensure that the brake fluid does not get onto the discs or pads as it will cause braking problems. There is no way to stop the brake fluid leaking, as you are breaking into the circuit. Be aware that brake fluid is corrosive, will eat through paint and can cause mild burning/irritation of the skin and eyes etc, so take precautions. If you do get it in your eyes, flush with loads of water immediately.

Next, undo the union where you released the clip.

Once undone, the hose end should pull through the bracket.

The other end of the hose is secured into the brake calliper with a bolt called a banjo bolt. It is essentially a bolt with a hole drilled down the middle which allows the brake fluid to flow.

Undo the banjo bolt and remove the old hose.

Now attach the new hoses, using new copper washers on the banjo bolts.

I bought a set of stainless steel banjo bolts to replace the old rusty ones.

Feed the new hose up though the bracket on the subframe, refit the clip and reattach the brake line. Clip the ABS cable back onto the brake line if you have one.

Now do the opposite side.

Once the two front brakes have been done, move onto the rears.

The rears are similar in construction, with the exception that they do not have an ABS cable clipped to them and they are routed differently.

Here is apicture of the new rear hose fitted.

Once all brake lines have been fitted you should check that they are routed correctly and will not be fouled by anything under normal use.

Now, all that is left to do is bleed the brakes.

Make sure that any spilt brake fluid is washed off the callipers, bodywork or any rubber components, such as tyres.

You now have nice new blingy brake hoses. Enjoy.

CJJ · 13-10-2009, 06:46

Forgot to mention that apparently the F and TF hoses are different lengths. So make sure you get the right ones.

Petevick · 13-10-2009, 06:51

where did you get your hoses from Clive ??

Jay-ZS+ · 13-10-2009, 07:28

Nice guide, Can you remember what size the banjo bolts were? Think this is a must before i track mine!

gotenks1321 · 13-10-2009, 08:03

Excellent timing Clive

I did one of my rears last weekend and will finish this weekend when my new 10mm union bolts arrive, one rounded off so decided to replace all of them at the same time

On that note, don't suppose you saw how easy it would be to replace those did you? I imagine the end of the pipe will be flared so not sure how easy it will be to get the old bolt off and the new one on

zipimini · 13-10-2009, 08:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotenks1321

Excellent timing Clive

I did one of my rears last weekend and will finish this weekend when my new 10mm union bolts arrive, one rounded off so decided to replace all of them at the same time

On that note, don't suppose you saw how easy it would be to replace those did you? I imagine the end of the pipe will be flared so not sure how easy it will be to get the old bolt off and the new one on

You will need a pipe flaring tool. If you're careful you might be able to cut the old flare off with a hacksaw and get a new union on and flare again but it will be tight.

gotenks1321 · 13-10-2009, 08:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by zipimini

You will need a pipe flaring tool. If you're careful you might be able to cut the old flare off with a hacksaw and get a new union on and flare again but it will be tight.

Seriously? So to replace the bolt I have to cut the end of the brake line off..... On other cars the bolts used to be split so that you could just slip it over the line and tighten it into the flexible hose.

CJJ · 13-10-2009, 14:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by Petevick

where did you get your hoses from Clive ??

Got them from here mate. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MGTF-2000on-Go...d=p3286.c0.m14

Or just do a search on e-bay for "MG TF Goodridge".

I specified stainless ends and coloured outer which took the price inc delivery to around £75.

CJJ · 13-10-2009, 14:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jay-ZS+

Nice guide, Can you remember what size the banjo bolts were? Think this is a must before i track mine!

Bolts were M10 x 1.0 and I got a set from here http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/HEL-Pe...__W0QQ_armrsZ1

This was the thread,

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthrea...ighlight=Banjo

jonathanharding · 13-10-2009, 19:55

Errrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
What is the fifth one for?
The long one

Petevick · 13-10-2009, 19:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathanharding

Errrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
What is the fifth one for?
The long one

errrrr, I only count 4, you been drinking

jonathanharding · 13-10-2009, 20:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Petevick

errrrr, I only count 4, you been drinking

In this - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HEL-Performanc...item19b2895871

No only drink between 9 and 5pm

CJJ · 13-10-2009, 20:37

I assume it is for the master cylinder.

Petevick · 13-10-2009, 20:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathanharding

In this - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HEL-Performanc...item19b2895871

No only drink between 9 and 5pm

I thoght you meant the pipes in CJJ's picture

jonathanharding · 29-12-2009, 08:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathanharding

Errrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
What is the fifth one for?
The long one

To answer my own question - to the ABS unit?

jonathanharding · 29-12-2009, 08:09

Hi
Looking at my front brake hose on an F and the ones in the pics of this how-to, it seems the F hose is attached to near the shock absorber and the end connected to the pipes is behind the wheel-arch cover

Can someone confirm this?

gotenks1321 · 29-12-2009, 09:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonathanharding

Hi
Looking at my front brake hose on an F and the ones in the pics of this how-to, it seems the F hose is attached to near the shock absorber and the end connected to the pipes is behind the wheel-arch cover

Can someone confirm this?

The front brake lines connect under the bonnet. One behind the battery and one behind the ABS unit

I hope that's what you mean

MG Marko · 29-12-2009, 09:16

Excellent how to, looking to this this soon myself so really happy. I just need some nice trophy Yellow brake pipes now

jonathanharding · 29-12-2009, 11:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by gotenks1321

The front brake lines connect under the bonnet. One behind the battery and one behind the ABS unit

I hope that's what you mean

Yes - as you put it.

Anyone know how to remove the old brake hose that connects to the shock absorber lower mount?

Iain160Trophy · 29-12-2009, 12:01

do they help your brakes or just look pretty?

12-10-2009, 20:18	#1
CJJ Mudslinger extraordinaire Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Ashington, Northumberland Car: MGTF 160, Focus ST2, KTM 640, Kangoo Van Posts: 16,899	How to fit stainless steel braided brake hoses. This guide can be used for upgrading your brake hoses to stainless steel braided hoses, or simply replacing with standard OEM hoses, the process is the same. The brake hoses are the flexible pipes between the solid brake lines that travel from your brake master cylinder/ABS unit and the brake calipers themselves. We need flexible hoses as you are connecting between the solid body, that doesn't move, and the wheel, which travels up and down on the suspension. The problem with flexible hoses is that they will perish over time and could even start leaking. Also, the amount of pressure involved during hard braking can cause the hoses to expand like a balloon. This means that some of the pressure applied to your brakes under braking is used in expanding the hoses and not in the braking itself. The worse the expansion, the more spongy your brakes will feel. By shrouding the hose in a stainless steel flexible sheeth, you almost eliminate the expansion problem and all the braking force is applied to the brakes. This should give improved braking and feel. I also paid the extra to get stainless steel end fittings and colour coded blue covering. The new hoses. and here is an old one alongside the new stainless steel one. The first thing to do is jack up the corner that you are working on and use axle stands to stabalise the car. It is also worth chocking the wheels for safety. In this how to we will be doing the front wheel, but the rear wheels are fairly similar hose wise. The front and rear hoses are different sizes, so make sure you get them the right way around. The hose is visible here behind the wheel. The hose is the thicker of the 2, the other being the cable to the ABS sensor (some cars may not have ABS). Remove the wheel and you will see the disc and brake calliper. Unclip the ABS sensor cable from the brake hose (if you have ABS) and release the spring clip that holds the top of the hose to the bracket on the subframe. The clip should just pry off with a screwdriver. Now you need to place a suitable container under the hub to catch any brake fluid that is released. Ensure that the brake fluid does not get onto the discs or pads as it will cause braking problems. There is no way to stop the brake fluid leaking, as you are breaking into the circuit. Be aware that brake fluid is corrosive, will eat through paint and can cause mild burning/irritation of the skin and eyes etc, so take precautions. If you do get it in your eyes, flush with loads of water immediately. Next, undo the union where you released the clip. Once undone, the hose end should pull through the bracket. The other end of the hose is secured into the brake calliper with a bolt called a banjo bolt. It is essentially a bolt with a hole drilled down the middle which allows the brake fluid to flow. Undo the banjo bolt and remove the old hose. Now attach the new hoses, using new copper washers on the banjo bolts. I bought a set of stainless steel banjo bolts to replace the old rusty ones. Feed the new hose up though the bracket on the subframe, refit the clip and reattach the brake line. Clip the ABS cable back onto the brake line if you have one. Now do the opposite side. Once the two front brakes have been done, move onto the rears. The rears are similar in construction, with the exception that they do not have an ABS cable clipped to them and they are routed differently. Here is apicture of the new rear hose fitted. Once all brake lines have been fitted you should check that they are routed correctly and will not be fouled by anything under normal use. Now, all that is left to do is bleed the brakes. Make sure that any spilt brake fluid is washed off the callipers, bodywork or any rubber components, such as tyres. You now have nice new blingy brake hoses. Enjoy. __________________ *I like reality, I've been there a few times, but I wouldn't want to live there.*

13-10-2009, 06:46	#2
CJJ Mudslinger extraordinaire Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Ashington, Northumberland Car: MGTF 160, Focus ST2, KTM 640, Kangoo Van Posts: 16,899	Forgot to mention that apparently the F and TF hoses are different lengths. So make sure you get the right ones. __________________ *I like reality, I've been there a few times, but I wouldn't want to live there.*

13-10-2009, 06:51	#3
Petevick regained interest Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Leicestershire Car: MG TF 160 in Trophy Yellow Posts: 39,683	where did you get your hoses from Clive ?? __________________ Pete Vickerstaff - Proud to drive an MG TF 160 in Trophy Yellow MG F/TF Central - your one stop shop for MGF/TF tips, tricks, faq's, how to's and links Soft Resin Badges for sale

13-10-2009, 20:37	#13
CJJ Mudslinger extraordinaire Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Ashington, Northumberland Car: MGTF 160, Focus ST2, KTM 640, Kangoo Van Posts: 16,899	I assume it is for the master cylinder. __________________ *I like reality, I've been there a few times, but I wouldn't want to live there.*

29-12-2009, 08:09	#16
jonathanharding Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Cornwall (just) Car: MGF Posts: 341	Front brake hose on MGF different to MGTF? Hi Looking at my front brake hose on an F and the ones in the pics of this how-to, it seems the F hose is attached to near the shock absorber and the end connected to the pipes is behind the wheel-arch cover Can someone confirm this?

13-10-2009, 07:28	#4
Jay-ZS+ Minus decals! Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Bristol Car: MG ZS 200+ Posts: 1,625	Nice guide, Can you remember what size the banjo bolts were? Think this is a must before i track mine!

13-10-2009, 19:55	#10
jonathanharding Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Cornwall (just) Car: MGF Posts: 341	Errrrrrrrrrrrrrrr What is the fifth one for? The long one

29-12-2009, 09:16	#18
MG Marko Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: North Yorkshire Car: MGF Trophy 160 No.167/796! Posts: 322	Excellent how to, looking to this this soon myself so really happy. I just need some nice trophy Yellow brake pipes now

29-12-2009, 12:01	#20
Iain160Trophy my cabbages appreciate me Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: No Place - Beamish co durham. Car: MGF Trophy 160 - Miss lemons Posts: 2,323 Blog Entries: 2	do they help your brakes or just look pretty? __________________

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