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Old 23-10-2009, 19:08   #1
sweenster
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clutch slave cylinder

Hi guys. Ive a dodgy clutch since i got the car(ZT 190), however bleed it last week and there was a big improvement. Driving home today the pedal went to the floor and i had to pull it up, seemed to be okish after this, but still didnt feel quite right. When i got home i checked the level in the master cylinder and it was way down again, i have a small leak at the master cylinder, but not enough to empty the resevoir i think. After reading several posts i believe that the slave cylinder is leaking, i did notice what looked like clutch/brake fluid on the enging protector when i took it off for and oil and filter change. Can anyone just confirm that its a gearbox off job to change the slave cylinder?
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Old 23-10-2009, 19:30   #2
Martyn P
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Yes its a gearbox removal job. so while fitting the new slave renew the clutch also! thats economic good sense.
Many will also advise a new Master cylinder at the same time, not me, I would replace that when it fails

Scroll to the bottom of this page to find a few previous posts on the same subject.
Search "clutch" at top of page, to commence the learning curve----
Be prepared to read thousands of previous posts on the subject

Clutch & slave renewal costs anywhere between 450 to 600, depending on who does the work, master an additional 250ish

If you post your rough location, someone here may well advise where to have the work carried out in your area
Assuming that your username section includes the useless location as UK, which too many think is adequate here

Clutch can fail on any car, at anytime, thats life!
Regards M

Last edited by Martyn P; 23-10-2009 at 19:33. Reason: spacing
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Old 23-10-2009, 19:32   #3
kelvin
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Lovely bit of design work!!! So glad I bought an auto.

If you want to DIY, try this: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=318376
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Old 25-10-2009, 21:33   #4
sweenster
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Hi Kelvin. Thanks for the link. Does anyone know? am i right in saying that you dont have to slacken/remove any engine mountings to do this, that the engine and box will be able to be dropped down enough after the top gearbox mouning under the battery tray has been removed, and the sum frame slackened off etc?
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Old 25-10-2009, 22:24   #5
newcybrown
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subframe

Quote:
Originally Posted by sweenster View Post
Hi Kelvin. Thanks for the link. Does anyone know? am i right in saying that you dont have to slacken/remove any engine mountings to do this, that the engine and box will be able to be dropped down enough after the top gearbox mouning under the battery tray has been removed, and the sum frame slackened off etc?
No need to undo subframe or steering rack, undo all gearbox mounts/fittings and sit rear of box onto the subframe within the wheel arch whilst supporting the front of the box on a trolley jack.

There is more than enough room to change the slave, clutch and flywheel (if u/s but normally still ok).

Just done one on a KV6 and took 5 hours to complete but had my son assisting.

Mr Haynes makes this job into 2 days, doing their way, all the dismantling stated in the relevant section is unnecessary.

Cost of clutch and slave from my local motor factors was 55 for 2 piece uprated clutch and 55 for slave cylinder which had the LANDROVER metal pipes which can be maneuvered through the gearbox with care.

Last edited by newcybrown; 25-10-2009 at 22:30.
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Old 26-10-2009, 00:31   #6
Martyn P
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by newcybrown View Post
No need to undo subframe or steering rack, undo all gearbox mounts/fittings and sit rear of box onto the subframe within the wheel arch whilst supporting the front of the box on a trolley jack.

There is more than enough room to change the slave, clutch and flywheel (if u/s but normally still ok).

Just done one on a KV6 and took 5 hours to complete but had my son assisting.

Mr Haynes makes this job into 2 days, doing their way, all the dismantling stated in the relevant section is unnecessary.

Cost of clutch and slave from my local motor factors was 55 for 2 piece uprated clutch and 55 for slave cylinder which had the LANDROVER metal pipes which can be maneuvered through the gearbox with care.
Hi Newcy (must get your name right!!)

Good to know that anyone with mechanical apptitude can change the clutch using the method you describe

There is a very good STICKY at the top of the ZT/75 forum home page, posted by Simon Greenback with pictures of similar diesel clutch change with credits to FrenchMike, using similar approach
Regards M

Last edited by Martyn P; 26-10-2009 at 00:33. Reason: typo
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Old 26-10-2009, 07:11   #7
sweenster
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cheers guys. newcybrown, any idea if theres a how 2 on the method you used mate? sounds straight forward emough tho?
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Old 26-10-2009, 07:36   #8
newcybrown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweenster View Post
cheers guys. newcybrown, any idea if theres a how 2 on the method you used mate? sounds straight forward emough tho?
Dont think there is a specific "how to" for the V6 but after reading frenchmikes sticky for the diesel and kinda adapting that it made the job much easier.

I'm not too clued up on the diesel but this is basically the way i did the clutch on the V6

"First loosen the drive shaft end nuts before raising the car.
Remove battery tray, air cleaner housing & starter motor.
Disconnect all gear linkages, cables and slave pipe connector from gearbox.
Raise and secure the car for safe working underneath.
Drain gear oil.
Drop bottom ball joints and remove drive shafts completely.
Support engine with a jack and gearbox with a trolley jack
Remove all engine to gearbox bolts then remove upper gearbox support and remove bracket.
Lower both jacks simultaneously allowing the gearbox to split from engine, prying between the two to allow the splines to come away from the clutch.

Once gearbox is loose sit it's back end on the subframe allowing the trolley jack to take the weight near the front.
This gives plenty of access to change the clutch and slave cylinder, there is also plenty of room to use a clutch aligning tool to refit the new clutch.

There is no need to remove sub frame, steering rack, exhaust or any components fitted to the legs ie track rods/drop links.

Refit in reverse but bolt the gearbox to the engine first before refitting the upper mounting."

HOPE THIS HELPS MATE
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Old 26-10-2009, 07:42   #9
newcybrown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martyn P View Post
Hi Newcy (must get your name right!!)

Good to know that anyone with mechanical apptitude can change the clutch using the method you describe

There is a very good STICKY at the top of the ZT/75 forum home page, posted by Simon Greenback with pictures of similar diesel clutch change with credits to FrenchMike, using similar approach
Regards M
Hi Martyn thanks for it getting it right just kidding mate what's in a name after all, it's friendship that matters.

I would like to thank frenchmike and silas again for their sticky re clutch change it helped me to complete this job a lot easier and quicker not such a daunting task anymore.

Nice to here from you Martyn hope all is well
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Old 26-10-2009, 09:58   #10
T-Cut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweenster View Post
any idea if theres a how 2 on the method
Yup. Check this out: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthrea...light=subframe

TC
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Old 26-10-2009, 10:09   #11
eumjmorris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelvin View Post
Lovely bit of design work!!! So glad I bought an auto.

If you want to DIY, try this: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=318376
agreed, the concentric slave a daft idea, but you wait till the Famed JATCO failure hurts you, then you might think again, I suspect?
meantime, enjoy the smoothness of the auto, even if the mpg is less,
and the road tax is higher because of the worse co2 levels.
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Old 26-10-2009, 22:58   #12
Martyn P
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Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by newcybrown View Post
Hi Martyn thanks for it getting it right just kidding mate what's in a name after all, it's friendship that matters.

I would like to thank frenchmike and silas again for their sticky re clutch change it helped me to complete this job a lot easier and quicker not such a daunting task anymore.

Nice to here from you Martyn hope all is well
In good shape thanks newcy----still hanging on to most of my marbles---
This forum keeps the old brain cells on the move lol

Good step by step you posted today, would have no fear following your proceedure or frenchmikes IF I HAD TO----
Regards
M
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