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Old 22-01-2010, 15:55   #1
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How to adjust door window seals.

One problem with the F/TF is water ingress around the driver and passenger windows.

Signs of leaks are wet carpet (normally under the carpet), water marks on the door card or speaker grill



Or water pools on the top of the door card.



Getting a perfect seal is something of a black art, or even luck. I spent a whole afternoon yesterday just doing the passenger window and I’m still playing.

There are many adjustments that can affect the seal on your window, and it is a combination of small adjustments and patience that will get you a good seal.

The best way to test your seal is to use a hose. Set it on a rain like spray pattern and try to simulate the rain coming from an angle slightly above and in front of the car. If you set it to too strong a spray and direct it straight at the window it WILL leak, but won’t represent real rain.

The first thing you need to do is remove the door card

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthrea...97#post3592497

Once the door card is off you need to lower the window so that it is not up against the stop.



Next you need to adjust each of the 2 upper stops to achieve a good seal. Hopefully you will have seen where the leaks are and know whether to raise or lower the stops.



The bolts that secure the upper stops are 10mm bolts.

This shows the front stop, which is recessed through a hole in the door.



Loosen the bolt and slide it up or down to suit. Try small changes first to see if the leaks improve.



Adjusting the front bolt will also affect the alignment of the window at the rear as well. You will need to play around with both stops to get the optimum seal. It really is a case of trial and error.

The wind cheater (or where the mirror attaches to) is also adjustable.
If you loosen the 2 bolts at the base of the cheater it will slide backwards and forwards with a little persuasion.



Also the seal around the cheater can deform over time. If you need to you can buy some silicone tubing and feed it into the recess to push out the seal a bit.







Another thing to remember is the door striker plate. This is adjustable and can cause the door to close more and hold a better seal. Loosen the 2 torx bolts (T40) and slide the plate in to tighten or out to loosen the door closure.



The reason I spent a whole morning playing with this is that I could not get a good compromise between the inevitable gap between the windscreen seal and the hood seal (where they meet) and the rear corner. If I adjusted one then the other would get worse.

After a bit of poking around, I found that the rear seal was held to the frame with a 4mm allen bolt. So I loosened the bolt



And chopped some thick washers to use as shims.



I then added the shims in to pack out the seal to frame joint.



This had the effect of closing the gap.



I still have a leak from the wind cheater, but I am going to be removing it at some point and sealing it to the door with black silicaseal to see if it makes any difference.
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Old 22-01-2010, 16:01   #2
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nice work as usual Clive
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Old 22-01-2010, 16:19   #3
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top banana clive.....this is something i need to get sorted on mine...only thing im not happy with at the mo
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Old 22-01-2010, 17:32   #4
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Excellent Clive. One of Misty's windows is slightly out of alignment and I've never gotten round to sorting it. This 'how to' will be very helpful
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Old 22-01-2010, 17:39   #5
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Fantastic thread Clive. Your contributions to this forum are priceless, well done!
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Old 22-01-2010, 17:43   #6
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Nice guide!

Hopefully, i'll never need it, the windows seem to be the only thing that never goes wrong on my F!
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Old 09-06-2010, 17:57   #7
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silicone tubing

great tip with the silicone tubing, what size did you use and where can i buy some?

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Old 09-06-2010, 17:59   #8
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I just searched ebay and bought a selection. I guess the size depends on how much you want to bulk the seal out by.
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Old 09-06-2010, 18:09   #9
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Brilliant as usual, this is something I need to do as well.

I think our windows are rising too much as they are pain to open when the roof is up, especially the drivers door.

Have some rep
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Old 09-06-2010, 18:18   #10
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My passenger window jams against the A-pillar before it gets to the top, I have to push the top of it out! It will probably drop off before I get round to fixing it!
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Old 09-06-2010, 18:46   #11
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excellent write up :-) Many thanks :-) this will come in very usefull.
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Old 09-06-2010, 19:59   #12
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As before, Many thanks for detailed instructions.
My passenger door has to be closed in a certain way to avoid gap, and my drivers door sticks on the rubber sill and doesn't want to let me out lol.

Will look into doing this when i have a day off to have a good go at adjustment.

Thanks again - Mikki.
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Old 09-06-2010, 20:41   #13
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Marvellous job. Forgot all about the door striker being adjustable!! Will have a look at mine this weekend.
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Old 09-06-2010, 20:49   #14
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Nice Job

I thought with you going to the dark side welding the door shut an super glue the window in place would have been the way to go ....lol
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Old 09-06-2010, 20:52   #15
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Did think about it at one point.
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