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Old 14-02-2010, 19:04   #1
stuartm1
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Guide to removing drivers door lock solenoid

Ok, here's my sort of attempt at a sticky.

Only tools needed is a torx screwdriver and a pen knife. I've skipped the door card removal as there's other posts about removing them so onto the door lock. Pls excuse my pointed hands - I can't find decent arrows that I could use so it's pointed hands!

1. Firstly remove the 2 nuts (pointed fingers) holding the window runner. Haynes states the top nut just needs loosened but I found it needed removed - this is to help access when removing the lock. Also unclip the wiring loom where I've circled on below pic otherwise it gets in the way...


2. Tape the interior door handle to the door otherwise it swings about and is an obstruction...


3. Haynes states next to remove the electrical connecting socket - this can be very time consuming and fiddly as it has 2 flap locks on each side and getting the underside flap to open is near impossible. I've removed it at this stage and also later but I suggest leaving this plugged into the solenoid and remove later to save time and frustration...


4. Remove the sill button rod that clips into the solenoid - just pull it out of the green clip on the solenoid.

5. With the sill button rod removed take a look inside the door. You now need to remove the rod which links the door handle to the lock mechanism...


6. This rod is connected 2 ways at the top - DO NOT undo the white clip attached to the dirty clip, only the rod must be removed from the white clip. First picture shows the rod before the first part is disconnected and second picture shows the first part disconnected. Simply push the clip away from the rod stem until it unclips and you will now have the same as 2nd pic...



7. Now you can simply pull the rod from the hole it sits in...


8. Haynes states the link rod shown below now must be removed. I found this impossible with the lock still attached to car as you have to push exterior door handle mechansim towards exterior side to make space so I left it attached as I did not want to damage anything...


9. Next I untaped the interior door handle which I taped to the door as it's time to undo the 3 torx screws that hold the whole locking mechanism solenoid in place. Note please remember to hold lock when you unscrew it otherwise it will drop inside door. Once you've removed the screws and slightly move the lock you will feel the link rod on step 8 come out easier without having to force it...


10. You can leave the link rod attached to the door handle barrel or take out - it doesn't seem to matter. Carefully move the lock to the bottom of door and now is a good time to remove the electrical plug as the access to it is much better. Below is pic of electrical connector with the lock flaps on each side...


11. Now you have to remove lock from outside the door - there's a knack to it. Haynes says move the window runners forwards (to front of car) but you'll notice there's very little movement from them to do this. I found pushing the metal runners towards outisde of door (i.e. straight ahead against the door panel) made space available - this is also why I unscrewed the top nut (mentioned in step 1).

12. With lock removed this is how lock should look (note this is also how it should look when refitting) - these are all the connections to it when it's removed. Only 2 rods are connected - the interior door handle & the exterior door handle...


To refit is easy and basicaly start at step 12 and work backwards. However there are a few pointers that can aid refitting.

1B. You can either attach the pin rod (shown below) to the door lock before refitting lock or once door lock is fitting. I found the pin rod thing would fall off by the time you got the door lock back inside door unless I used blu-tac to keep it attached. It's probably easier to leave it unnattached until after you refit the door lock...


2B. It's handy to have an assistant to pull the exterior handle so that when reconnecting the plastic clip (in step 6) is much easier. I found putting the rod through the hole first and then clip in the stem of rod works best (if that makes sense). If someone pulls the handle, the clip moves further down and is less obstructed making easier to reattach. If you don't have an assistant to hand I found wrapping an old spanner in a towel and then wedging door handle open works - but don't open too far incase of damaging springs. You can also hold open door handle yourself but it's not ideal.

3B. There's no need to remove the clip shown on next pic when removing or refitting lock - unless you're refitting a new lock. I've taken a pic to show you how it fits to mechanism...


4B. If refitting a new lock you'll likely find the new lock does not have a padded foam backing on the side facing inside car - I suggest attaching a foam backing otherwise it will likely rattle when attached to door and driving around...


5B. Once everyting is reconnected I attached the sill buton rod last - wait till you hear the click when you press it in the clip as then you know it's in place.

6B. When all is done DO NOT REFIT DOOR CARD as if something is not quite right you won't be able to access the door lock should it not unlock. I suggest leaving the door card off for a few days to see if everything is working ok and then refit - better that than having to destroy a door card to access the lock.

7B. You might find once everything is fitted and ready to test out that the pin rod (mentioned in step 1B) might not have slotted in to the door handle properly - if you see the 4 points at the end (like a cross shape) then it's not correctly attached. I solved this by actually closing the door and locking it - this spins the hole the rod sit's in and the 4 points will then slot into their grooves and all will be correctly in place - now you shouldn't see the 4 points in the rod if you look.

Below are some pics of locks that may be of help.



My old lock on left and new lock on right...


My old lock mechanism - it all looks ok but it wasn't...


Last edited by stuartm1; 14-02-2010 at 19:09.
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Old 14-02-2010, 19:39   #2
jimbo
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Nice one Stuart - it's be said before, but a picture is worth a thousand words - good helpful how to.

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Old 14-02-2010, 21:09   #3
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brilliant how to. thanks for taking the time.. rep well deserved.
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Old 14-02-2010, 22:10   #4
stuartm1
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I actually did the job twice - on Saturday I rushed through the job as it was getting dark and today I did it all again to recheck and take the pics but it was much easier as I knew what I was doing. Once you know what to do it can be done within an hour.

I've seen garages charging 150 to fit these when it's really a simple job with no special tools required.

Jimbo, the only difference from the rear locks must be cross headed rod on the drivers lock as that seems to relate to the key hole barrel so I would guess the drivers door lock is the only door to have that - meaning all the other door locks should be easier.

Now my sill button shoots up on 1 press again to unlock rather than the laboured slow motion, halfway or not at all and my interior handle is not stiff or jerky.
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Old 26-03-2011, 18:20   #5
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Thanks Stuart. Just done my rear door latch - great help.
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Old 21-04-2011, 07:28   #6
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Spot on, exactly what I was looking for as my driver's door lock went a few weeks ago. I've got my replacement unit/solenoid from e-bay (20) and will let you know how I get on, as I'm fairly inept. For that reason I bought extra plastic rivets as I'll inevitably break a few like last time I had the card off.

Incidentally it was after a fairly major service that mine stopped popping up.
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Old 02-05-2011, 09:14   #7
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Thumbs up

Well I did this lat night, a bit over an hour to take card off and replace solenoid.

No printer so I jotted down the key points and got to work.

Door card off with no breakages and plain sailing until the rod arm with the threaded bottom end.

I went at it a bit half-arsed and after a lot of fiddling unclipped the bottom end instead, the rectangular flat white one attached to the solenoid.

This did let me get the unit out, then new unit in with a fair bit of pushing and wiggling, but got it in place by pushing the window runner back.

Great tip by the way, I wasn't up for removing the window as well!

The hassle I caused for myself was clipping the rod back in the right place into the white clip (I had my wife working the exterior handle, but this it seemed was unnecessary with me unfastening the bottom end of the rod).
I judged the rod's vertical position within the clip from feeling the thread on the rod, and crossed my fingers and clipped it in.

If going for this (likely wrong) option, getting a fingernail into the two small tabs on the white rectangle will hopefully enable it to unclick and be opened, I did spend a good while feeling about this clip, probably my main sticking point.

Pretty straightforward after that, door card missing a couple of clips so replaced those and it seems to be working just dandy, button now pops up as it should, which is the problem I intended to fix.

In my haste nearing the end, I didn't check where the plastic rod with the star end had located itself, I don't know what it actually does, so fingers crossed it's either right where it should be, or at least not going to cause a problem if I didn't get it in place.

If I had one I could have done with using a dentist's mirror and wee maglite instead of just groping around in there, although having the spare unit to look at was invaluable.

I'm now going to go out and check I didn't bugger the electric window operation when pushing the runner around, wish me luck...

So a huge thanks for the pictorial and instructions, made the job a doddle!
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Old 02-05-2011, 09:23   #8
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Haribo you actually tackled the job correctly that is the correct end to take the rod off.
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Old 02-05-2011, 18:09   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haribo View Post
In my haste nearing the end, I didn't check where the plastic rod with the star end had located itself, I don't know what it actually does, so fingers crossed it's either right where it should be, or at least not going to cause a problem if I didn't get it in place.
Remote locking now fine, but opening the car with just the key didn't pop the button up, which from checking back over these instructions I realize now is the plastic rod's function.

Card off again, solenoid loosened off, and wiggle the rod into where it should have gone if I'd not been a dozy eejit, so now it's all working correctly.
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Old 02-05-2011, 18:58   #10
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It's easier on re assy if you use the key to locate the dogs bone then tighten the mechanism,
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Old 28-03-2012, 19:41   #11
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Door handle removal

I changed the FNS lock today, the plastic lever and spring came out when I was trying to disconnect the rod from the handle. I am just letting you know that I managed to remove the handle without removing the window glass. If you reach inside the door with a screwdiver, pointing upwards, whilst with the other hand on the outside handle rear trim you will feel the vibration as the screwdriver touches the inside of the trim catches. When you have the screwdriver around the right place simply keep scraping the tip towards the rear until it catches the metal clip and unlock it. The clip will stay in the unlocked position and you will be able to easily pull the trim away. You can then remove the handle. Just reverse the process to refit.
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Old 13-07-2012, 09:11   #12
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Thumbs up Rover 75 dors solenoids

hi for all,I have find this forum and glad now,I like to say many thanks for stuartm 1 ,about details,I have replaced all 4 solenoids in my car and everything starting work,so many thanks for all supporters
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Old 06-08-2012, 15:27   #13
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I know a bit of time has passed but I'd just like to thank the original poster for a brilliant guide to door locks which has saved me a a lot of money.

My passenger door lock on my 2004 - 75 stopped working on the key or switch about ten days ago. I initially tried getting into the door myself but got stuck so put it back together and my local garage looked as though it might make some money. But good search on this forum found the above and encouraged me to have another go.

Bought a secondhand lock on Ebay (17). Arrived this morning. with help from pictures I've managed it. Few mistakes en route failing to get the right order for window gutter, cable and push in rod. But pretty obvious what I'd done wrong when trying the window.

So really very pleased - working alone, disabled pensioner with a gammy hand - but did it.

Many thanks.
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Old 16-10-2012, 15:32   #14
haribo
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Angry

Hello again I've just done this job again as my driver door was intermittentley failing to let me open the door, despite the sill button popping up fine. This was pretty critical as my ZT has auto-lock on, and I managed to achieve the worst case scenario of me outside the car with the keys inside & engine running and the driver door not opening for me.

I don't know of a T4 in or near Fife or I would get rid of the auto-lock, nightmare.

I did buy a replacement, but my used one off e-bay has failed to pop at all so after a lot of footering about trying to remedy it by trying tweaking things like giving the dog-bone rod a turn, attaching the sill button rod further up or down etc. etc. all to no avail.

I would have came to the conclusion that something is amiss with the exterior handle mechanism/barrel, but on popping the old solenoid back in, the old one has been working with no hiccups so far.

Possibly I have bought a dud solenoid, and all the jiggling around I've done has somehow got my original solenoid working...

So I think my question is - is the position of the sill button rod and/or the dog-bone rod critical, and possible to get wrong?

Thanks,

Haribo
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Old 16-10-2012, 16:36   #15
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The two positions of of what you mention are not adjustable, but the exterior opening link rod is, which will give you an inoperative exterior handle if not adjusted correctly.
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Old 24-08-2013, 17:21   #16
Wirral limo
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My thanks

Thank you for the excellent guide. 25 for the new lock, some bruised fingers and a slight cut to the wrist and all works well. The only exception is the vertical pin sticks a bit.

Some extra points.

Do not fully undo the window slider - trust me on this

Unpin the vertical pin first

pusher the slider bar towards the outside of the door really does work.

I owe you a pint.
cheers - The limo lives on
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Old 23-02-2014, 13:20   #17
jscpch
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Thanks - great help

Many thanks for the pics and the instructions. Just changed the driver's door lock/actuator on my 2003 CDT1. Took 3 hours but then I haven't had training as a gynocologist!! Some very difficult connections in some recesses that really need patience. If you have a youngster with smallhands that may help. I confirm there's no need to remove the window but maybe loosen the window support bar.
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