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Old 24-02-2010, 13:18   #1
PhilC2
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Rover 75 Diesel Fuel Pump Problems

Hi all,

I would be grateful for any help regarding a couple of issues I have with the above vehicle, which is a 2002 plate.

The first is an intermittent fuel pump problem, which I have been having on off for about 18-months. On occasion the car would not start and would also have a loss of power when driving. I have not had any problems with non-start for about 2-months now but the loss of power seems to happen about once a week. The RAC said it was the fuel pump and to continue with it, if the vehicle didn't start was to pop the bonnet and hit the fuel pump, which I do and works. I have been on the forums and noticed threads about fuel pump clips but these seem to be for the petrol version only. Is it worth getting a fuel pump clip or do the symptoms suggest a problem with the fuel pump itself and if so what part? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Also I have a water leak in the vehicle and with the bad weather we have been having, the vehicle at times resembles a swimming pool. I have invested in a car vacuum cleaner but as fast as I clean the water out, it rains and fills up again. I have been to a garage and they cannot locate the problem. The water fills up in the passenger side and the rear passenger side. I have checked the plenum tubes and first time they were filled with rubbish but they are now clear and the problem persists. The front windscreen was replaced recently due to a crack and the problem has occurred prior and after the replacement. I have checked nearside door seals and sunroof seals and all seems well. The seals in the boot were also replaced about 12-months ago. Again any comments would be appreciated.

Many thanks,

Phil.
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Old 24-02-2010, 13:23   #2
FLYER
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if your pump needs tapping it needs changing . Flyer.
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Old 24-02-2010, 13:28   #3
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Agree with flyer it sounds like the pump needs replacing,firstly check the in-tank fuel pump is working as often when it stops working the under bennet one has to work harder and then eventually quits as well.The under bonnet pump is easy to replace and can be bought on the link below,also sells the in-tank one if it needs replacing too

http://www.mkon.co.uk/apps/webstore/...ts/show/948874

As for the leak if you do a search on here its another common fault,usually originates around the boot or rear lights.Good luck
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Old 24-02-2010, 19:04   #4
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Originally Posted by rolled1 View Post
Agree with flyer it sounds like the pump needs replacing,firstly check the in-tank fuel pump is working as often when it stops working the under bennet one has to work harder and then eventually quits as well.The under bonnet pump is easy to replace and can be bought on the link below,also sells the in-tank one if it needs replacing too

http://www.mkon.co.uk/apps/webstore/...ts/show/948874

As for the leak if you do a search on here its another common fault,usually originates around the boot or rear lights.Good luck
How hard is the in tank one to replace, if mine has gone?
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Old 24-02-2010, 19:38   #5
57vintage
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How hard is the in tank one to replace, if mine has gone?
If you go to the supplier link, there's an excellent "how to" on the page. I've printed it to show to my regular mechanic who when I phoned him to book in admitted he'd never done one before.

I bought one today as my UBP was making pitiful grinding noises until I tapped it smartly with my fist. I've bought the UBP JMA Motors of LLandudno advertised (had a good chat with Julian there too, top bloke) and am waiting for both to arrive. Around 160 for both which is a helluva lot less than Rimmers et al are asking.

As no doubt everyone has told you, if the UBP's gone, you're as well doing both as the UBP takes the strain after the ITP goes arse up.
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Old 24-02-2010, 19:42   #6
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Originally Posted by 57vintage View Post
If you go to the supplier link, there's an excellent "how to" on the page. I've printed it to show to my regular mechanic who when I phoned him to book in admitted he'd never done one before.

I bought one today as my UBP was making pitiful grinding noises until I tapped it smartly with my fist. I've bought the UBP JMA Motors of LLandudno advertised (had a good chat with Julian there too, top bloke) and am waiting for both to arrive. Around 160 for both which is a helluva lot less than Rimmers et al are asking.

As no doubt everyone has told you, if the UBP's gone, you're as well doing both as the UBP takes the strain after the ITP goes arse up.
Thanks.

My mechanical knowledge has in the past gone as far as discs, drums and pads, leaf springs on a Capri, EGR valve, thermostats, that sort of thing. Don't think I'm up to taking a fuel tank off if that's what's involved. I've no ramp for a start.

How much do you reckon the labour (hours) would be at a garage to fit both pumps?

Edit: And have you any contact details for JMA, they don't seem to come up on Google.

VI
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Old 24-02-2010, 19:47   #7
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Thanks.

My mechanical knowledge has in the past gone as far as discs, drums and pads, leaf springs on a Capri, EGR valve, thermostats, that sort of thing. Don't think I'm up to taking a fuel tank off if that's what's involved. I've no ramp for a start.

How much do you reckon the labour (hours) would be at a garage to fit both pumps?

Edit: And have you any contact details for JMA, they don't seem to come up on Google.

VI
No need for removal of the fuel tank,theres a How-To in the attached link,the In Tank Pump can be replaced from inside the car with back seat removed.Good luck
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Old 24-02-2010, 19:48   #8
57vintage
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No need to take the fuel tank off mate.

Remove the back seat and the ITP housing is underneath and the gubbins can all be withdrawn and replaced with a bit of fiddling through the aperture. Think of it as diesel gynaecology.

I'd estimate that a half decent mechanic could do both pumps in 2.5 hours tops, so around 125 plus the parts from the link given earlier where the "how to" is also available.

In my first 10 months of ownership I've had the plenum/ECU problem, a new alternator, power steering pump and front upper suspension bearings. Now the pumps are expiring, I'm just waiting for the clutch to go and the boot to leak.

I still love the car though.

JMA details:

01492 535020 (speak to Julian, he knows his 75s)

www.jma-cars.co.uk

His ad for the UBP is at:

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthrea...ht=bonnet+pump

Good luck.

Last edited by 57vintage; 24-02-2010 at 19:53. Reason: adding info
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Old 24-02-2010, 20:05   #9
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Originally Posted by 57vintage View Post
No need to take the fuel tank off mate.

Remove the back seat and the ITP housing is underneath and the gubbins can all be withdrawn and replaced with a bit of fiddling through the aperture. Think of it as diesel gynaecology.

I'd estimate that a half decent mechanic could do both pumps in 2.5 hours tops, so around 125 plus the parts from the link given earlier where the "how to" is also available.

In my first 10 months of ownership I've had the plenum/ECU problem, a new alternator, power steering pump and front upper suspension bearings. Now the pumps are expiring, I'm just waiting for the clutch to go and the boot to leak.

I still love the car though.

JMA details:

01492 535020 (speak to Julian, he knows his 75s)

www.jma-cars.co.uk

His ad for the UBP is at:

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthrea...ht=bonnet+pump

Good luck.
Thanks very much once again. Reading the how to, you can limp on for a bit by keeping the tank above half full, so I might plan a day out in Llandudno. Or I've got some leave in March if I'm feeling a bit more ambitious.
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Old 26-02-2010, 10:14   #10
57vintage
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Compliments to mkon from whom I ordered an ITP after 3pm on Wednesday afternoon.

Even with the dreadful wintry weather up here in iglooland, it arrived yesterday morning, securely packaged, with a copy of their website fitting instructions and a free pen! All for just over 80 quid.

Kudos too to JMA from whom I ordered the UBP on Wednesday afternoon. 74 Scottish pounds delivered on to my desk. It arrived today meaning that I can get my diesel gimp on to fitting the bleeders (although no actual bleeding seems to be required) on Monday.

I hope the products match the service.

Last edited by 57vintage; 26-02-2010 at 10:25.
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Old 26-02-2010, 10:39   #11
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GIMP ?????? Genius in mechanical practices ???????? Flyer,
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Old 26-02-2010, 11:30   #12
57vintage
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GIMP ?????? Genius in mechanical practices ???????? Flyer,
I like it.

He is, and likes getting my car in as he sees the 75's quaint foibles and quirks as a learning experience. He drives a 45 and I think he'd like to upgrade to the ultimate Rover model. I look upon my visits to his workshop as part customer, part missionary.
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Old 26-02-2010, 12:38   #13
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Worth making sure the tank is not too full when you change the in tank pump. (made this mistake when garage changed mine - spillage more likely - diesel in car not good!)
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Old 26-02-2010, 14:23   #14
57vintage
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I know Stew. It's about 1/2 full at the moment (deliberately kept well-loaded as I'm well-read on the ITP/saddle pumping idiosyncracy and I can't see me doing many miles this weekend.
  • the weather outside Aberdeen is shocking and the football match I'd normally be attending 50 miles west will be cancelled. Pussies.
  • the IBP's quiet for now but I'd rather do as few miles as possible in case it decides to pack up altogether
I'll warn Spannerman that it's got a fair amount in it so that he's extra careful when he's withdrawing the ITP gubbins from under the seat.

I suppose I could lend him my Pela......
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Old 26-02-2010, 18:46   #15
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deliberately kept well-loaded as I'm well-read on the ITP/saddle pumping idiosyncracy
Any chance you could help me become well read. The search facility is not my friend after all in this respect.

Basically, why does it help to keep the tank more full? Does gravity lend a hand or summin?
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Old 26-02-2010, 19:31   #16
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the intank pump pumps fuel from one side of the tank to the other , on a straight run say on a motorway and on a low tank it,s possible to run out of fuel, it happened to me some years ago and i have never let the tank go to low since. Flyer.
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Old 26-02-2010, 19:46   #17
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Originally Posted by Village Idiot View Post
Any chance you could help me become well read. The search facility is not my friend after all in this respect.

Basically, why does it help to keep the tank more full? Does gravity lend a hand or summin?
Also gravity does help as the pump does not have to work so hard lifting fuel that is at a higher level to start with. COLVERT.
soon you will have learnt so much on this marvelous forum that you will not be able to stop yourself becoming a " SUPPORTER " and getting your name in Redand putting up silly AVATARS like FLYER does !!! LOL. ( Not good ones like mine !! )
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Old 27-02-2010, 11:19   #18
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Also gravity does help as the pump does not have to work so hard lifting fuel that is at a higher level to start with. COLVERT.
soon you will have learnt so much on this marvelous forum that you will not be able to stop yourself becoming a " SUPPORTER " and getting your name in Redand putting up silly AVATARS like FLYER does !!! LOL. ( Not good ones like mine !! )
Believe me, the forum will be getting the 12, I just cleaned myself out for a couple of weeks to get the car.
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Old 27-02-2010, 12:22   #19
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Originally Posted by philc2 View Post
hi all,

i would be grateful for any help regarding a couple of issues i have with the above vehicle, which is a 2002 plate.

the first is an intermittent fuel pump problem, which i have been having on off for about 18-months. On occasion the car would not start and would also have a loss of power when driving. I have not had any problems with non-start for about 2-months now but the loss of power seems to happen about once a week. The rac said it was the fuel pump and to continue with it, if the vehicle didn't start was to pop the bonnet and hit the fuel pump, which i do and works. I have been on the forums and noticed threads about fuel pump clips but these seem to be for the petrol version only. Is it worth getting a fuel pump clip or do the symptoms suggest a problem with the fuel pump itself and if so what part? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

also i have a water leak in the vehicle and with the bad weather we have been having, the vehicle at times resembles a swimming pool. I have invested in a car vacuum cleaner but as fast as i clean the water out, it rains and fills up again. I have been to a garage and they cannot locate the problem. The water fills up in the passenger side and the rear passenger side. I have checked the plenum tubes and first time they were filled with rubbish but they are now clear and the problem persists. The front windscreen was replaced recently due to a crack and the problem has occurred prior and after the replacement. I have checked nearside door seals and sunroof seals and all seems well. The seals in the boot were also replaced about 12-months ago. Again any comments would be appreciated.

many thanks,

phil.
did you ever have any problems while you were driving it ie unpowered or very jumpy and not reving past 3000 rpm? Thanks im trying to find out what my problem is just doing a bit of research thanks
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Old 27-02-2010, 13:45   #20
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Originally Posted by rolled1 View Post
agree with flyer it sounds like the pump needs replacing,firstly check the in-tank fuel pump is working as often when it stops working the under bennet one has to work harder and then eventually quits as well.the under bonnet pump is easy to replace and can be bought on the link below,also sells the in-tank one if it needs replacing too

http://www.mkon.co.uk/apps/webstore/...ts/show/948874

as for the leak if you do a search on here its another common fault,usually originates around the boot or rear lights.good luck
hi rolled one if i was to change both of my pumps you the link you provided is that all i need, as it seems very cheap as usually 1 pump costs about 200 thanks
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