Rover 45 / MG ZS Fuel tank removal guide. - MG-Rover.org Forums
 
 
 
Go Back   MG-Rover.org Forums > Model Specific Forums > MG ZS / Rover 45 & 400

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 23-09-2010, 13:43   #1
DMGRS
Discount MG Rover Spares (Formerly Mattyprice4004)
 
DMGRS's Avatar
 

Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Preston
Car: MG ZT-T+ CDTi Auto
Posts: 6,641
Garages
Send a message via MSN to DMGRS
Rover 45 / MG ZS Fuel tank removal guide.

Well, as a few other people have had to do, I had to 'whip' the tank off my ZS a couple of days ago.

I use the word whip very carefully, as it's not as easy as you'd think!

If you're going to do this, make sure you have the following handy:

- 2x 13mm spanners for lock nuts
- Trolley jack
- Axle stands
- 4L parrafin to clean the tank out
- Dremel for cutting the fuel tank hangers if needed
- M8 threaded bar, for making new hangers if needed
- 4x M8 nuts for replacement hangers
- Big vice and 'manly' hammer for making the new hangers
- Pliers for removing pipes from the tank connections


Here we go...

1. Make sure you have only a little or no diesel left in your tank.
Jack the rear of the car up, and support with axle stands. I mounted mine underneath the rear trailing arm.

2. At the back end of the tank, you'll see the two hangers, with a pair of locknuts on each. Spray each with some penetrating oil, and attempt to undo the lower nut. If the nuts are free enough to move, start loosening them and lowering the tank down onto a trolley jack.
If not, then cut through the hangers with a dremel or equivalent, above the locknuts.

3. With the tank supported on the jack and lowered about 3-4 inches, remove all connecting pipework. Unclip the wiring to the fuel level sensor, the cable connection is on the rear subframe.

4. Lower the tank to the ground, and remove the fuel take-off system, being careful not to damage the fuel level sensor. Make sure this doesn't get any dirt on it, leave the assembly on a plastic sheet or equivalent.

5. Pull the tank out from under the vehicle, and rinse with parrafin vigorously. Once you're satified the tank is cleaned out thoroughly, replace the fuel level / fuel take-off assembly. Then place the tank on the trolley jack, and raise the tank until it is about 3-4 inches from it's resting level. Connect all fuel lines and the fuel level sensor wiring. Finally raise the tank the last few inches.

6. If you managed to get the locknuts off, simply re-tighten them up. If not, then cut approximately 200mm of M8 threaded bar, bend the end into a 'candy-cane' shape, and hook this where the original hangers were. Thread one nut up the new hanger, then continue to fit the tank as you would if you were using the original hangers. Make sure the tank is properly supported and tight.

New hangers, with nuts fitted:



7. Lower the car, add some diesel then loosen the bleed screw on the fuel filter. Pump the priming bulb until fuel bubbles out of the bleed screw, then re-tighten it. Start her up and away you go!

Of course, this job is a whole lot easier if you have a slave to help you with it...



Mat
DMGRS is offline   Reply With Quote

Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 17-01-2011, 21:16   #2
roverchippy
Registered User
 

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Oxfordshire ..... (OLD USERNAME Guy_Laister)
Car: Rover 75 con CDT and MK2 Austin Metro!! (cecil) and a allegro VDP 1500! and 2006 cityrover select!
Posts: 738
Send a message via MSN to roverchippy
very helpful!!! Thanks! REPPED!
roverchippy is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 17-01-2011, 21:38   #3
Rover_King
Registered User
 

Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: South
Car: Rover 45 1.8 Connoisseur
Posts: 9,867
Why you have to remove the tank then?
Rover_King is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 18-01-2011, 06:58   #4
graphic
Registered User
 

Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Kidderminster
Car: Rover 400 (95-99)
Posts: 1,117
In the last photo it seems someone is working under the car with it supported only by a trolley jack!

Absolute NO NO.......Only takes a second to put an axle stand under that could save your life.


Forgot to mention....very good & helpful guide

Last edited by graphic; 18-01-2011 at 07:32. Reason: Omission
graphic is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 18-01-2011, 07:11   #5
patpending
Supporter
 
patpending's Avatar
 

Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Surrey
Car: ZS 180 Mk2 FireFrost Hatch
Posts: 35,744
Quote:
Make sure you have only a little or no diesel left in your tank.
so it's OK if it's full of petrol, then?

If someone's Mk2 ZS fuel tank were to rust away, how much could he expect a reasonable charge to be to replace it? Can you still buy new ones? If so, are they rust-proofed?

EDIT please listen to guru safety advice. I do hope that's not a cigarette out of shot (no-one is allowed to say whether they can see a fag in the picture )

Last edited by patpending; 18-01-2011 at 07:22.
patpending is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 18-01-2011, 07:43   #6
stefan161
Registered User
 

Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Leicester
Car: MG3 Style, previously ZS180 Saloon in XPG
Posts: 1,642
Quote:
Originally Posted by patpending View Post
Can you still buy new ones? If so, are they rust-proofed?
Q1. Some, but not all. ZS180 are like hen's teeth. Not sure what the physical differences are, it might just be capacity.

Q2. Don't think so.
stefan161 is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 18-01-2011, 08:10   #7
patpending
Supporter
 
patpending's Avatar
 

Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Surrey
Car: ZS 180 Mk2 FireFrost Hatch
Posts: 35,744
Quote:
Originally Posted by stefan161 View Post
Q1. Some, but not all. ZS180 are like hen's teeth. Not sure what the physical differences are, it might just be capacity.

Q2. Don't think so.
just as well I've had mine waxoyled, then...

if the 180 is different, it can hardly be bigger. I'm down to less than after only 200 miles...
patpending is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 18-01-2011, 08:11   #8
roverchippy
Registered User
 

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Oxfordshire ..... (OLD USERNAME Guy_Laister)
Car: Rover 75 con CDT and MK2 Austin Metro!! (cecil) and a allegro VDP 1500! and 2006 cityrover select!
Posts: 738
Send a message via MSN to roverchippy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rover_King View Post
Why you have to remove the tank then?
My fuel pump has gone bad...sounds like roller coaster going up a lifthill! CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK.

Ran out of petrol, so not good! lol Just clicks when i put more in.

The car idles fine, just under hard acceleration, it struggles!
roverchippy is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 18-01-2011, 09:04   #9
DMGRS
Discount MG Rover Spares (Formerly Mattyprice4004)
 
DMGRS's Avatar
 

Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Preston
Car: MG ZT-T+ CDTi Auto
Posts: 6,641
Garages
Send a message via MSN to DMGRS
The car was supported by something else, can't remember for the life of me what though. We had the other support under the rear of the car near the towbar area.

No smoking was involved, neither me or Jamie have the money or inclination to be able to have such a habit!
DMGRS is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 20-01-2011, 04:26   #10
DanGrey
Registered User
 

Join Date: Nov 2010
Car: Montego
Posts: 24
That must be tough getting rid of that fuel tank! In my case it was only the tube that we removed.. it was an old car so it was leaking when we check of it.. Anyway! cooL! thanks for this!
DanGrey is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 20-01-2011, 11:30   #11
xsduk
Registered User
 

Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Baldock
Car: MG ZS TROPHY BLUE 180 mk1
Posts: 1,170
Quote:
Originally Posted by patpending View Post
I'm down to less than after only 200 miles...

Oh god, I know that feeling. I liken the fuel tank to an egg timer........
xsduk is offline   Reply With Quote

Old 23-05-2011, 22:05   #12
Rover_King
Registered User
 

Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: South
Car: Rover 45 1.8 Connoisseur
Posts: 9,867
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattyprice4004 View Post
- M8 threaded bar, for making new hangers if needed

If not, then cut approximately 200mm of M8 threaded bar, bend the end into a 'candy-cane' shape, and hook this where the original hangers were.


New hangers, with nuts fitted:


If I am understanding that correctly, that hook/loop end of the bar is simply hooked over into a hole....nothing else securing it. If so......how on earth does that hook/loop stay in the hole and not ever detatch itself!? I have images of going over bumps and the fuel tank assembly shifting upwards. Just doesnt seem like much in the way of securing it to the car!?
Rover_King is offline   Reply With Quote

Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rover 400/45 and MG ZS Door Card Removal/Refitting guide. Gareth1982 How Do I - Answers To Common Problems. 10 28-02-2014 15:16
General Guide to Cooling System Leaks. Rover 200/25/400/45 + MG ZR/ZS K-series. HotTubRepairer How Do I - Answers To Common Problems. 4 10-01-2013 17:07
Rover 75 CDT Fuel Pump in Tank Removal Tool depeyre MG ZT / Rover 75 (Sponsored by Rimmer Bros) 9 22-08-2010 19:18
MG ZS Fuel Tank help Robinho MG ZS / Rover 45 & 400 7 25-06-2006 11:30
Interior Question - Digital Clock Removal Rover 45/MG ZS anthracite45 MG ZS / Rover 45 & 400 3 24-10-2005 06:28


All times are GMT. The time now is 04:37.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
ShowCase, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.