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Old 26-02-2011, 16:54   #1
rossocorsa
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how much play is too much play damper bush?

just had the TF fail the MOT on an offside front damper lower bush, not that unusual on a TF but a pain as it means changing a complete damper. Thing is I've got the wheel off to have a look and the bush visually looks fine no cracking or distortion. With the wheel off and using a crowbar I can find no more than about half mm of sideways play in the rubber and no up/down compliance. Is that excessive? Am I checking this incorrectly as I am obviously untrained on mechanics? Car has done 43K and handles very sharply with no clunks or clanks. The tester commented that it should bang and clank over bumps but it doesn't even on potholes (well no more than TFs normally do )
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Old 26-02-2011, 17:58   #2
rossocorsa
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further to this having read up further it seems to have some sort of rose joint affair fitted does that mean it will have some sideways movement? I'm getting confused a bit here!!
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Old 26-02-2011, 18:20   #3
blackoctagon
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I do not have a TF, so I am imagining what it looks like, but could you pop two suitable looking washers around the joint, one either side.

This might give you the reduction in movement that will please the tester.
As long as the washers look OEM then you might get away with it, as long as you are happy that there really is no problem with it.

As a possibly relevant aside when I take my old Porsche for MOT I take the workshop manual to show the tester the description of the wheel bearing adjustment so he knows that the slight play that can be had is factory spec and he acknowledges this and passes it as long as it's in spec. It never seems right to me, but Porsche were quite clever and it drives nicely.
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Old 26-02-2011, 18:33   #4
Ima-mechanicnow
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Given that copperknob is away otherwise engaged tonite

I will say it

"how much play is too much play damper bush" I'll say ooooh errr
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Old 26-02-2011, 18:39   #5
steve1951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackoctagon View Post
I do not have a TF, so I am imagining what it looks like, but could you pop two suitable looking washers around the joint, one either side.

This might give you the reduction in movement that will please the tester.
As long as the washers look OEM then you might get away with it, as long as you are happy that there really is no problem with it.

As a possibly relevant aside when I take my old Porsche for MOT I take the workshop manual to show the tester the description of the wheel bearing adjustment so he knows that the slight play that can be had is factory spec and he acknowledges this and passes it as long as it's in spec. It never seems right to me, but Porsche were quite clever and it drives nicely.
I assume your porsche has taper roller bearings on the front axle, which are adjustable and mustnt be overtightened, The porsche set up was the normal set up on rear wheel drive cars on the front end.
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Old 26-02-2011, 18:59   #6
blackoctagon
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Yes it does.
I was always of the opinion of tighten them up to what seems right i.e quite tight, but one day I figured out the reason and have always just done them to spec. And never replaced them.

From that point of view I prefer the MG set up with the set bearings. A cost cutting move but a good one.
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Old 26-02-2011, 20:22   #7
rossocorsa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackoctagon View Post
I take the workshop manual to show the tester the description of the wheel bearing adjustment so he knows that the slight play that can be had is factory spec and he acknowledges this and passes it as long as it's in spec. It never seems right to me, but Porsche were quite clever and it drives nicely.
possible with a porker but unfortunately the MGR style manual isn't specific about design criteria etc. and the two washers idea will not work as apparently it isn't a rubber bush anyway
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Old 26-02-2011, 21:49   #8
steve1951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackoctagon View Post
Yes it does.
I was always of the opinion of tighten them up to what seems right i.e quite tight, but one day I figured out the reason and have always just done them to spec. And never replaced them.

From that point of view I prefer the MG set up with the set bearings. A cost cutting move but a good one.
From memory, the adjustment was always tighten fully then back off a quarter turn. The big problem with this set up as you probably already know. Is that the hubs need stripping and repacking with grease on a regular basis. Whereas the f/tf ones are maintainance free.

Last edited by steve1951; 26-02-2011 at 21:54.
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