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Old 05-12-2012, 13:13   #41
Zaidain
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Nice work MGJohn. I have always been a silent fan of yours for a while and you never disappoint with the work you do. If I would trust anyone to work on my beloved 25 it would be you Sir!
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Old 05-12-2012, 15:18   #42
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Originally Posted by D.Ilbert View Post
Thanks John. Another enthralling thread.

One small point, shouldn't your new tyres go on the rear?

What you say will fall on deaf ears 'cos Vicki Butler-Henderson is much better looking than you.

Edit: forgot the link
- http://www.etyres.co.uk/flashmovies/...ear-etyres.htm

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I thought this vid made a lot of sense, the idea being that having the worst tyres on the front gives you the opportunity to both detect and correct a loss of grip.
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Old 05-12-2012, 16:05   #43
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I thought this vid made a lot of sense, the idea being that having the worst tyres on the front gives you the opportunity to both detect and correct a loss of grip.
Loss of grip could mean the car user is OVERdriving the car. Then, when they end up in a ditch, they blame "ditchfinder tyres". Nowt to do with me mate, ditchfinder tyres. I'd be far more inclined to blame ditchfinder CarUSERS. Over drive on winter tyres this time of year and you'll still end up in a ditch.

I can jump in a fine handling and braking car with the finest tyres all round and within seconds find a ditch! Not recommended.

It aint Rocket Science. More like poor judgement. I could drive on bald tyres showing exposed cords and not find a ditch. Not recommended though for obvious reasons.

Whilst on this subject, ever wondered why so many car users particularly this time of year with very low temperatures always end up in the ditch on BLACK ice, never the white variety... ...

Detecting loss of grip:~

Freezing temperatures = ice most likely irrespective of colour. The steering wheel and even the seat of your pants should be your best ice alert detective agency.
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Old 05-12-2012, 16:22   #44
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The issue of the recommendation to fit new tyres to the rear will probably only manifest itself where the older pair of tyres a fairly worn (ie. more than half worn).

In a straight skid, the worn tyres will have less grip, and if on the rear, will have the result that the front end of the car will grip and slow better, whereas the rear will not and will slide out and round - the back end effectively tries to overtake the front.

With the better tyres on the rear, the tendency will be for the more worn fronts to be more inclined to slip, and the better grip on the rear effectively 'drags' the rear of the car, thus maintaining a straight line in the skid.

That's the theory behind it anyway It may well be the case that a brand new cheapo tyre may have less grip than a half worn top end tyre
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Old 05-12-2012, 17:22   #45
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Made a start by releasing three of the coolant hoses:~



They were far easier to pull away from their locations as I had been through all that first time a few days ago. Nine years firmly clamped makes the Rubber form a close fitting shape on the location which is always difficult to remove carefully trying to avoid damaging the rubber.



Then by lowering the bottom Radiator Hose released end down towards a large bowl below, the coolant ( mainly Water with a flushing agent ) was collected with minimal spillage :~



That mud coloured stuff shows the SPEEDFlush has done the business. Not a trace of lumps of Emulsified Oil-Water mix anywhere :~



Removed OFFside front Road Wheel and placed car on Axle Stand. Located the Stand on one of the reinforced rails under the car. That allowed me to use my 22mm Socket and Breaker Bar to correctly align the engine into the "SAFE" position.



Then using my DeWalt 240volt Mains Impact Wrench I released the CRANKshaft Pulley Bolt. I thought it was not going to cope with the job as the Wrench struggled for several seconds then the bolt suddenly loosened :~



Then replaced the 22mm Bolt back in its location and realigned the engine into the safe position. The Impact Wrench had moved the CRANKshaft a few degrees away from safe :~



Then Inserted the CAMshaft Locking Tool ( about 4 on ebay ) to hold the TWO CAMshafts securely to allow me to loosen each of their 17mm Bolts :~



Then removed the Locking device and both bolts and using a large Screwdriver, carefully levered the two Pulleys off their CAMshafts. WARNING... NEVER leave that locking device in place until it's needed when the new Timing Belt is fitted ... Why? Some poor devils having done all the work left it in place and then tried to start the car.... Result:~ Ruined engine :~



I also removed the two small and short 8mm bolts which secure the upper inner Timing Belt Cover to the Cylinder Head. One bolt below the centre of each CAMshaft. That Inner Cover can remain in place when the time comes to lift the Cylinder Head.

I planned to detach the Plastic Inlet Manifold prior to removing the cylinder head. That has the advantage of not having to disconnect all the electrical and fule connections. However, the Inlet Manifold is secure by 13mm Nuts and these have become corroded and will be difficult to remove in situ without the risk of rounding a few off which is to be avoided at all costs. So, I'll play that by ear when the time comes to lift the Cylinder Head. There was another problem from corrosion ~ there's always a few on old cars.. The two 15mm lower manifold nuts either side of the Manifold on their 17mm Bolts were loath to be removed. Slightly seized on their bolts and will need a 17mm spanner on their Bolt heads to facilitate seperating the Manifold from the Exhaust pipe. I prefer to leave the Exhaust Manifold in place as it is easier to work without disturbing the Ex-Manifold and its gasket. The beauty of the K-Series is that its components are so light, you can do this. That's the Bolt head in the centre of this picture. It simply spun round and round. Will need a spanner on both ends to undo :~



Access to those two bolts is very difficult as the AirCon Pipe is in the way. As the AirCon is not working and in need of regassing, I removed that Pipe which was held inplace by three 8mm bolts. Much better access now.



By now the Sun had dipped behind the hill and the Temperature started to drop like a stone. The tools were very cold to handle now even though I used rubber gloves. So packed up for the day and weather allowing, will get stuck in tomorrow. Apart from those annoying corrosion problems, well satisfied with the leisurely progress made today.

Finally, here's evidence that the Air Filter has been doing its job well. note all that grit and road filth. Without the Air Filter, guess where that lot of filth would go ...



More follows.
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Old 05-12-2012, 23:46   #46
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Nice work John.

I tend to find when I am doing a k series head gasket that the way and order I do things changes each time I do one. I see that you have removed the camshaft pulleys now - will you not have to put them back on with their bolts to rotate the cam shafts in order to remove the cylinder head bolts? I seem to remember that happened to me last time.

Exhaust manifold bolts are always a worry as to wether they will come undone easily or not
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:08   #47
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If it becomes necessary to refit a Pulley to rotate one CAMshaft a tad to clear one of the Sensor Reluctor CAMs to access the through bolts, no problem.

Agreed about using various approaches as you learn more from the previous experiences when working on each next job. That's what experience is all about..

I will leave that top inner Timing Belt Cover in place as when the Head is removed, access to that 'pesky' 8mm Bolt which secures the Water Pump from the opposite ( engine ) side to the other 8mm bolts is so much easier. Cannot do that with the CAMshaft Pulleys in place.

The frost has now evaporated away by the light breeze but it's still cold. Even so, I may spend an hour or so on the car today before dark when I get back from a bit of shopping.
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Old 06-12-2012, 18:00   #48
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Busy with other things for most of today and did not make a start on the car until after 3 O'Clock when the light rain stopped. Tad warmer too but I put on a load of clothes as I hate being cold.

Those two partially corrosion seized lower Exhaust Manifold bolts I tackled first. They simply spun round when I tried to remove them yesterday. I had given them both a good dose of Penetrating Fluid last night and amazingly, they were both undone using finger power only... result

One of the Quick Release fuel line connectors ( Speedfit Fuel Line Connectors which are a very clever idea ) would not quick release.... I suspect heavy handedness in previous ownership. I therefore undone the Union in that fuel line where it sits on the top of the Fuel Filter. I shall be renewing that Filter anyway.

So, with all coolant hoses, fuel lines, electrical connectors removed or disconnected, I leant over the engine and with both hands at either end, gave a tug or two. The Cylinder Head lifted and I was able to lift it up and out of the engine compartment with both Inlet and Exhaust Manifolds still attached single handed. Something you could not do with many engines.

It was dark by the time I had finished and here's a few images of the work today.









Nowhere near as bad as some I've seen. I will clean up these components when time allows and check those cylinder head and cylinder block interfaces for truth with my trusty straight edge. Initial inspection ~ in the dark with a torch ~ shows a cylinder head face skim will not be necessary.

Ongoing ~ when time allows.
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Old 07-12-2012, 17:01   #49
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Much rain and shine today which meant using an electric drill could be iffy. From about 3pm the skies cleared so I got the tools ready only to have a few seconds of rain make everything wet. Even so, made some progress cleaning up and checking the Cylinder Head for truth. When cleaned up, I was pleased to observe that the Fire Ring witness marks were very light so no sign of any overheating deep indentation fire ring damage in the usual hot area around the Exhaust Valves. A Head skim to clean up the surface will not be necessary. It rarely is unless the car was driven on when the overheating signs were ignored there and damage done. Here's a few images I took which are self explanatory.

Before starting. I've seen far worse :~



Tools ready for the clean up. No engine degreasant to hand so I used some Washing Up Liquid diluted in a Mist Sprayer. Then carefully and lightly used the wire brush in the Electric Drill :~



Working quickly and carefully as it was fast getting dark and black clouds moving in this direction, I soon had the Cylinder Head face clean and ready for checking with my trusty straight edge. I used the edge in several directions across the head with a torch light which would reveal any uneven areas or signs or warping. Not a trace of either. That head is good to go.







Weather allowing, tomorrow I will clean up the Cylinder Block and fit the new Water Pump.

Here's what the Block currently looks like. That filthy liquid in the coolant passageways around each cylinder will drain away quickly once the old Water Pump is removed. Any left I will use a syringe to suck out.



These are the new MG-R OE parts I will fit as work progresses :~



Finally, here's the reason those lower manifold nuts ( and bolts ) simply spun round when I tried to undo them. That was a delaying surprise I was not prepared for... The Nuts were not fitted to studs as with all the earlier cars I've worked on, so this nut and bolt fixing must be a change with the later cars :~



Getting there.
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Old 08-12-2012, 17:16   #50
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The Cylinder Head is refitted.

Beautiful sunny winter's day so made steady progress working in the dry but very cold conditions this afternoon working at my usual leisurely pace.

Prior to the work cleaning up the block, I used this Syringe with short piece of rubber hose to extract the remaining old coolant :~



This 'silver' 8mm bolt is very difficult to access with the Cylinder Head in place. Easy with the head removed. It bolts into the Water Pump from the 'reverse' side and also holds the Inner Timing Belt Cover.



PAS Belt Tensioner 10mm Bolts loosened allowing it to be swung clear allowing access to the small 8mm Timing and Water Pumps bolts to be accessed.



Removing those 'hidden' bolts :~



Lower Timing Belt Cover removed revealing old Belt and Water Pump, both of which will be renewed.



New and old Water Pumps.



New MG-R Pump has cast Impellor, old has pressed steel one.



Clean up about to start :~



Water Pump location prior to clean up. Lower left shows PAS Belt tensioner swung clear.



Cleaned up Cylinder Block given the Cylinder Liner "Finger Test". All four liners passed on all four points around their top circumference. Good sign that.



New Water Pump fitted :~



Block given final clean up. Dirt always finds its way onto the surface no matter how careful you work.



New Water Pump in place and all bolts tightened.



With new Timing belt in place, the main engine mount can be refitted. It needs to be removed to remove the old and fit the new. The engine is supported with a Trolley Jack or Axle Stand with the mount removed. Then fit the new MLS ( Multi-Layer-Steel ) Cylinder Head gasket.



Head Saver Shim fitted on top of the Head Gasket.



Cylinder Head fitted lightly in place. I will get the Torque Wrench on those 10 Through Bolts ( Nine in place in picture ) but that will have to wait until tomorrow weather permitting.




Meantime, bad light stopped play @ 16:13 ~ Superb Sunset though in still very clear sky.

Please with today's progress ~ getting there ...

Ongoing.

EDIT to Add @ 18:53

With the MLS Gasket came this helpful information sheet :~

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Old 08-12-2012, 23:03   #51
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Great work John. Coming along a treat.
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Old 09-12-2012, 01:20   #52
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If the cylinder head is just lightly sitting on top, is there any chance of oil draining out and covering the head gasket face as it sits over night? Or wouldn't that matter even if it did happen?
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Old 09-12-2012, 09:44   #53
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It's not the original exhaust manifold and cat hence the nut and bolt situation.
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Old 09-12-2012, 10:45   #54
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If the cylinder head is just lightly sitting on top, is there any chance of oil draining out and covering the head gasket face as it sits over night? Or wouldn't that matter even if it did happen?
There is virtually no oil in that head or upper block which was allowed to drain before being thoroughly washed. So no chance of that. I did tighten all ten through bolts with a Tommy Bar by hand.

Before I fire up this engine, I will drench the Camshafts in fresh oil as I always do. In my experience, oil from the oil pump will be pumped at high pressure and reach into the camshaft and other bearings within a second of operating the starter. I found this out when cranking a T-Series on the starter with the cylinder head removed. Oil was spurted high into the air within a second of my operating the starter. Oil supply under high pressure was immediate as the pump will pump oil with starter motor power alone before the first cylinder fires up. I suspect that is the case with most engines.

Otherwise those bearings relying on high pressure oil immediately from the pump on start up would suffer from delays. Possibly causing severe accelerated wear every time the engine is started cold as we are often reminded about by the oil companies.

New OE-MG-R Camshaft Cover gasket and Torque Wrench all ready.

Sun starting to shine brightly so I'll wrap up and get stuck in. I'm home alone now and all being well, without distractions, I should make good progress and may even have the engine running before it gets dark at 4pm.

I shall also fit one of my spare painted K-Series CRANKshaft Pulleys. That way it will be easy to see the Safe Timing Index marks which become almost invisible on old rusted Crank Pulleys.
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Old 09-12-2012, 17:27   #55
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Starting late, steady leisurely progress today. Started by torquing the 10 Through Bolts securing the Cylinder Head. Stage 1 = 20nm.



Stage 2 = 180 degrees with the Breaker Bar in sequence. Stage 3 is a simple repeat of Stage 2. Sorted :~



Prior to further work, I was not happy with the 'feel' of the Timing Belt Tensioner. I used the one on the left which had a far smoother feel to it when rotating :~



Then with the Inner Timing Belt Cover in place, both Camshaft Pulleys were fitted, set in the "SAFE" position along with the CRANKshaft Pulley and the new Timing Belt fitted :~





CRANKshaft pulley in safe position. Note the double dot index at the top in line with the K-Series slight forward incline :~



Removed the Spark Plugs to make manually rotating the engine easier and after about five or six complete revolutions by hand, no sign of any dreaded metal to metal contact. Never assume it is timed up right and simply operate the starter. Very 'iffy' and asking for trouble as some sad cases have discovered. The again checked the Camshaft and Crankshaft Pulleys still arrived in safe condition after those rotations :~



Spot on :~



This is the old and refurbished CRANKshaft Pulleys for comparison :~



Then fitted Painted CRANKshaft Pulley which is so much easier to read the all important "SAFE" indexes :~



Few more manual rotations and checked again the Indexes :~



I then refitted the Inlet Manifold by which time the Sun had disappered behind the hills and as the temperature started to drop rapidly, packed up for the day and went in for some warmth and refreshments.

Ongoing.

Thinks .... do not think I'll tackle one of these jobs in Mid-winter if I do one again in the future....
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Old 09-12-2012, 17:45   #56
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Awesome thread John.

Its nice to see a job done right. makes you feel warm inside as a technician.
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Old 10-12-2012, 20:03   #57
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Got stuck in again today and only managed two pictures. First one shows a useful "Third Hand" technique ( well piece of wood ) I use to hold the Polyvee Drive belt in place when aligning it over the CRANKshaft, AirCon Compressor, Alternator and Tensioner Pulleys. With patience there are many two man jobs which can be completed single handed if you think about how to go about things.



This is the other of the two pictures I took showing the new completed Cylinder Head Reassembly.



I had used the last of my 20 Litres of OAT Antifreeze recently so quickly drove to Halfords for a 5 litre bottle of the stuff :~ 21.99p. Not in this car of course..

I also swapped the Coolant expansion bottle which was still mucky inside with one I obtained from a scrap car which I had cleaned up ready for this job.

Then filled and bled the cooling system as I always do confident that all would be well. By now it was dark so worked in Torchlight rather than get the Inspection Lamp set up. Final check that all the various Fuel supply and return Lines, Hoses and electrical connectors were fitted. Then connected the Battery, got inside the car and turned the Key. Waited for the fuel system to prime up and then turned the key. Two seconds later the little K-Series burst into life making a sound like an old Ford Diesel....Clacketty-clack-clack-clack. .... After about thirty seconds, by which time the oil pressure had filled up the Hydraulic Valve Lifters ( Tappets ) and the engine settled to a nice fast idle rustle noise at about 1300 rpm. Bit high though.

With the heater on fully it was blowing cold still after a few minutes and it was then that I noticed that the temperature gauge had climbed above the 'normal' needle position. So, there's still air in the system despite my best efforts. Lifted the bonnet, removed the Expansion Bottle Cap ... slowly and carefully ... and then squeezed both the top and bottom radiator hose firmly and alternatively for about a minute with the Expansion bottle cap removed and fitted. Even with my gloved hand I could now feel the heat in the top hose including the smaller heater one. Then back inside the car with the engine running, nice warm heat from the heater vents and the Idle had settled to about 900 rpm and the Temperature gauge needle had dropped to the 'normal' position, a tad below midway.

Took the car for a short run about 6pm and shortly after reaching the main road, as soon as I put my foot down the engine 'died' as you would expect if you turned the Ignition Switch off. Then picked up but would 'die' whenever i gave it some welly and then pick up when I lifted off. I strongly suspect fuel starvation. I did not renew the Fuel Filter but simply connected the Fuel Line to the Filter.

Tomorrow I will fit a new Fuel Filter and check the fuel supply. During that short run I also put 20 of 95 RON in the tank. So, I know it has plenty of fuel.

Ongoing.
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Old 10-12-2012, 20:36   #58
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I read with interest early on in the tread advise on towing and use of A-Frames, i think you will find that the information is wrong,
1. A person who passed there car driving test before 1st january 1997 can tow a trailer with a Total Train weight of 4250kg, but all trailers over 750kg must have brakes fitted and working.
2. A person who passes his test after 1st january 1997 can tow a trailes as well but the Total Train weight must not exced 3500kg, with all trailes over 750kg must have brakes working.
3. A person who passes there test after 19th January 2013 cannot tow a trailer weighing more than 750kg and if towing with a large car/van the total traing weight must not ne more than 3500kg.
4. Towing with A-Frames is illegal unless it is to remove a broken down vehicle to a place of safety. the car being towed changes its status to a trailer when attached to a A-Frame, therfor exceeds the 750kg unbraked law.

A company has just developed a electronic braking system that can be used with A-Frames which VOSA have accepted but the cost far outweighs buying a car trailer.

I live in Noth wales close to Anglesey were you bought one of your cars from, VOSA in the area are now pulling cars in using A-Frames and stopping them from proceeding further, also the police are there as well to check if your insurance allows you to tow as some insurances do not, same as using a car for business purposes is not covered unless you have it on your insurance.
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Old 10-12-2012, 20:47   #59
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^^^ I suggest that you read the following link to the Governments own website with regard to towing rules. It is you who is incorrect

https://www.gov.uk/towing-with-car/d...at-you-can-tow
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Old 10-12-2012, 20:50   #60
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Explain were I and VOSA are wrong on the towing law and were A-Frames are legal please
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