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Old 18-03-2013, 11:39   #1
chudofbroady
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Does K-Seal work/

Have had a new head gasket fitted in 2008 to my rover 45 1.6IS by a guy from Birmingham who advertised on e-bay.
Now noticed water leaking from cylinder head and was told by mechanic the head gasket has gone
He said use Hot Weld or something of a similar name.
Can't find that product but have found K-Seal and Steel Seal.
Do any of these products live up to their claims?
One is 10 the other 30, any difference?
Thanks
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Old 18-03-2013, 11:47   #2
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How long do you want your car to last?

If you use one of those products your asking for trouble.

No good masking an issue, fix properly is always the best way.
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Old 18-03-2013, 11:49   #3
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If it's the head gasket, the best you can reasonably hope for is a temporary fix since it will probably fail somewhere more critical eventually. However, I recommend BARS LEAKS - about 5 from Halfords.

That said, nothing will help if there is oil in the coolant, so check that if you haven't done so already.
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Old 18-03-2013, 12:08   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverman View Post
How long do you want your car to last?

If you use one of those products your asking for trouble.

No good masking an issue, fix properly is always the best way.

Hopefully as long as possible.
When I had the head gasket repaired in 2008 the guy said it would last for the life of the car. I've only done 108,000 miles in total and about 30,000 since the fix.
As the car is all rusting underneath and needs work doing on the rear trailing arms its not worth throwing good money after bad.
Shame cos despite all its problems I like my 45 and would prefer to keep it than scrap it.
Ah well
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Old 18-03-2013, 13:30   #5
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If you don't want to spend any money, try BARS LEAKS. It should seal the coolant leak - after that, just keep your fingers crossed. You might be lucky and get another 20,000 miles out it, or you might not - there's no way to say for sure.
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Old 18-03-2013, 13:50   #6
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I was advised by a respected mechanic that you should NEVER use anything like that on a K Series. It has a tendency to block water channels in the block and rad and can actually make it a hell of a lot worse.

Yes it costs more, but the best thing is to get it fixed properly. There are a couple of mobile mechanics on here who I'm sure would be happy to help.

Treating the symptoms is never a good idea, you need to treat the cause.
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Old 18-03-2013, 14:03   #7
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As stated K-seal is a no no. My BRM has had K-seal at some point in it's life. Everytime I take a component off that has coolant passing through it I find K-seal residue.

Here's the jiggle valve on in inlet manifold!!


and here's how is should be.


Thermostat housing


Expansion tank with K-seal residue. I had to replace it as it was a nightmare to clean.
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Old 18-03-2013, 16:03   #8
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I was advised by a respected mechanic that you should NEVER use anything like that on a K Series.
Did he say what's so special about K-series engines?

The reality is that using any sort of coolant sealant is a bodge. However, I've used BARS leaks on two cars without any side effects and it's done stirling work on both of them by repairing radiators. And if the alternative is scrapping the car, then you may as well try it.
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Old 18-03-2013, 17:44   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdhturner View Post
Did he say what's so special about K-series engines?

The reality is that using any sort of coolant sealant is a bodge. However, I've used BARS leaks on two cars without any side effects and it's done stirling work on both of them by repairing radiators. And if the alternative is scrapping the car, then you may as well try it.
As I said, it blocks the water pathways in the block. On the K they tend to be quite small, perfectly fine when the coolant is perfect, but if you put KSeal into it, it can block up - bit like how high cholesterol in your blood can lead to blood clots & heart attack.

The alternative isn't scrapping the car, its getting someone who actually fixes the problem rather than just going 'ooh, your head gasket needs replacing m8', without bothering to find the cause. Oh and someone who uses proper replacement parts too, not cheap knock off gaskets that are little more use than paper.
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Old 18-03-2013, 18:15   #10
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Thanks for the adice fellas.
As I have previously used a so-called ex Rover mechanic to fit me a new head gasket in 2008 at 400+ I'm not keen on throwing another 300 at the problem.
The car also has other problems that need sorting and will cost a fair amount of money so I guess a try with Bar Leaks will do no harm.
Checked the overflow tank earlier and no water had been lost and temp gauge goes to the normal point
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Old 18-03-2013, 18:37   #11
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Originally Posted by chudofbroady View Post
Checked the overflow tank earlier and no water had been lost and temp gauge goes to the normal point
Surely not a bad thing? haha.

Just try the Barrs Leak and if it works, it works! If not it will need doing anyway, nothing to really loose in your situation mate.
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Old 18-03-2013, 18:46   #12
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Just been reading on Amazon that Holts Radweld Plus coolant engine block, cylinder head, radiator, hoses 250ml seems to be worth a try so will get that and see, fingers crossed.
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Old 18-03-2013, 19:14   #13
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the issues i have seen is blockages around the thermostat,and slow opening after,jiggle valve in the plastic inlet manifold,also heater matrices have blocked,losing your heater.you takes your chances with it,im afraid.if its the difference between scrapping it because of cost etc,then you have no choice but to try it.if the car is used very often/motorway speeds etc,you really want to be watching levels/gauge like a hawk.
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Old 18-03-2013, 20:06   #14
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I wouldn't recommend any products like that but I'd rather use k-seal or steel seal over rad weld. I bought a HGF ZR that had been filled with radweld and had completely blocked the water pump housing with a grey gunk which completely stopped coolant entering the engine.
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Old 18-03-2013, 23:21   #15
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Okey Dokey guys, Holts Wondarweld it shall be then
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Old 19-03-2013, 21:35   #16
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K-Seal is OK for a quick fix

The original HG on our 1.6 45 started to lose water at 60K miles and I put Radweld in the system. The leak slowed but got worse again after 2 K. I flushed the system and tried K Seal. It stopped the leak for 3 K then the water started to go again.

I changed the HG for a MLS one when mayo started to form on the dipstick at 65K. Total cost around 100.

No harm was done by the K Seal and the car has been fine for the last 2 years since then. It's a good emergency cure and might last a few thousand miles or more.

Bars is very old-tech and is probably only good for radiators, not heads. The old mechnaic next door reckons he's used Wondarweld to fix cracks in blocks, which are static, but will it cope with the old K-series head-shuffle?
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Old 19-03-2013, 22:25   #17
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the debate about using steel seal or k-seal is a bit emotive on these forums,general concensus is not too,but some say it has worked,and is claimed to be permanent,if you believe the packaging.i have known garages to use it after doing a HG repair,also to use it when aquiring a car to sell,as their form of 'no going back'guarantee.personally,i have had very little to do with either,what i have seen,is that k-seal can be hit or miss but have seen the steel seal version poured into a fiat punto,and it sealed.my thinking is the pressures involved in a headgasket blow,are substantial being very localised,and for a blob of dried sealant to last long,under that pressure....no,and i could not trust the car for sustained use after,you will never know when it will eventually give way.i can understand using it if the situation is desperate,or the car is just not worth it/costs of HG repair etc,and it must be remembered that these cars can nearly be bought for the cost of a garage/mobile mechanic doing a HG repair now,sad as that fact is.i would not use it,but i would also not condemn someone who does...for as long as it works.
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Old 19-03-2013, 23:45   #18
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Bars is very old-tech and is probably only good for radiators, not heads.
Another word for "old" could be "tried-and-tested". They also do something specifically for head gaskets I think, however, the last time I looked it's not available in the UK (but someone might import it).

In any case, no sealant will stand up to exhaust gases. If coolant is leaking into the oil, sealant might work, if it is leaking to the outside, then it should work, but it absolutely won't touch oil leaking into the coolant or exhaust gases leaking anywhere.
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