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Old 04-02-2003, 09:30   #1
alexf2828
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rover 620ti starter motor/solenoid

my starter motor sometimes does not engage and spins without turning the engine.Has anyone got any pics/manual how to get it off the engine/strip the solenoid?Or even a pic of a new one so i can get an idea where the lower mounting bolt is!
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Old 04-02-2003, 09:38   #2
njones7054
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See recent thread "Starter motor doesn't engage".

Dr Dave, were you going to give us the "How to do" on this one?
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Old 04-02-2003, 11:18   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by njones7054
Dr Dave, were you going to give us the "How to do" on this one?

I'll 2nd that!!
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Old 04-02-2003, 17:09   #4
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This problem seems to be common to 2 litre M16 and T16 engines fitted to 820's, 220's, 420's, certain 620's and all 2l turbo's. Also occurs on 2l Maestro's and Montego's.

The problem is with the drive mechanism in the starter motor. This contains a one way clutch mechanism which is intended to stop the starter over-revving should the ingine fire while it is still engaged. When this starts to playup the starter will engage and spin but mechanism slips so no drive is transmitted to the flywheel. Hence the starter motor can be heard to spin but the engine doesn't turn over. Initially this appears as an intermitent problem, often worse in the cold weather. During the summer months it can work everytime for months on end, but come the colder weather, thats when the trouble starts.

The cure is either a reconditioned starter motor at £120+ or to repair it yourself which can be done in 45 minutes if you have all the tools to hand. Other people on here will tell you where to obtain a new drive mechanism. Procedure as follows.

1. Locate radio key code and procedure for re-entering.
2.
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Old 04-02-2003, 18:09   #5
njones7054
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OOps.

1. Locate radio key code and instructions for re-entering.
2. Unlock doors, close all electric windows, open bonnet.
3. Disconnect battery negative lead (13mm socket) and push lead out of the way.
4. Same for the positive lead.
5. Disconnect solenoid lead (pull of tab).
6. Disconnect main power lead to starter (13mm socket).
7. Loosen top starter bolt (19mm socket and 5 inch extension). This bolt screws into the end of the block.
8. Locate the bottom bolt which is ofetn out of sight and loosen (same tools). This is bolt is longer and goes right through the engine end-plate and is secured with a nut and spring washer. The washer grips well enough to loosen and tighten the bolt but you will have to reach behind the engine to remove the nut and washer.
9. Now remove the top bolt and the starter motor should come away.
10. Undo the connection for the lead which runs from the solenoid to the motor (12mm socket).
11. Undo the 2 bolts holding the solenoid in place (8mm) and remove the solenoid coil.
12. Unhook the solenoid armature from the drive mechanism actuator arm, remove armature and spring.
13. Remove motor rear bearing cover (2 small torx screws).
14. Remove retaining clip and washer from the end of the motor armature shaft.
15. Remove the motor rear cover (2 medium torx screws).
16. Using a small screwdriver, gently ease off the 4 plastic clips which hold the brush springs in place. Remove the clips and springs.
17. Remove casting from front of motor case (2 medium torx screws).
18. Withdraw the motor armature from casing.
19. Stand the armature on the bench with the drive mechanism uppermost.
20. Slide a large Ĺ inch drive socket over the end of the shaft (square drive end downwards) and give it a GENTLE tap with a large hammer. This should release the thrust washer from its locking ring.
21. Slide the thrust washer down the shaft.
22. Grip the motor armature in a bench vice and prise the locking ring out of its groove with a couple of screwdrivers. If you donít have a vice, get someone to hold the armature steady on the bench but make sure those hands are wearing thick leather gloves. Prising the locking ring (a.k.a. you F*****g Little B*****d) out of its groove is a little tricky the first time, but with a little patience and persistence you will prevail.
23. Slide the locking ring off the end of the shaft, ditto the thrust washer and drive mechanism.
24. Have a cup of tea (or other suitable beverage).

Re-assembly is basically the same only backwards, if you see what I mean.

Getting the thrust washer back over the FLB can be tricky. The best way seems to be to lever it over with a large screwdriver starting on the side opposite the open end of the locking ring.

Older starter motors have different brush assemblies. Also they use proper screws and bolts rather than these new-fangled torx thingys.

If you have remote central locking, you will need to operate the key fob buttons alternately three or four times before it re-activates.

Less than an hour (with any luck) and you have fixed it. You have also just saved your self over a hundred quid. Feel good?
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Old 04-02-2003, 23:13   #6
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Where do you get the drive from??

Is there a part no. or exact name??

I've asked Paul but he hasn't replied yet.
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Old 05-02-2003, 00:02   #7
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Paul helped me obtain the drive mech.
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Old 05-02-2003, 10:21   #8
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thanks 4 that guys! seems to be behaving at the mo but the time will come when it needs looking at.
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Old 06-02-2003, 19:50   #9
mr paul cudd
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alex its my flaut that ther is no how to do i have bib biz .i will do a how to do on this prob sorry mate if you email me with your add i will make sure you get a drive too repair your start .AND I WILL DO A HOW TO REPAIR IT ON STARTERS
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Old 22-02-2003, 17:32   #10
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thanks 4 that procedure was most useful!saved me a lot of time knowing socket sizes etc.Took it off (bottom bolt was a ****!) stripped the solenoid and just cleaned everything else,put it back on and it starts every time! must've been sticky solenoid.
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Old 22-02-2003, 17:51   #11
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how much are drives to repair the starter BTW?
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Old 22-02-2003, 20:57   #12
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I would still like to replace the drive tho!!

It seems to be worse after I've washed the engine!!

I have have a spare starter so I can strip it without my car being out of action!!
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Old 22-02-2003, 22:50   #13
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This is one for Paul - I've no idea on starter motors
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Old 23-02-2003, 02:56   #14
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need to get one of those torx driver sets seeing as every other bolt is a silly torx!
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Old 27-02-2003, 20:50   #15
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sorrry i took so long to look at your prob have been away again tell me if you still have the prob ?paul
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Old 28-02-2003, 11:58   #16
Dave turbo
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Paul,

Could you tell me where to get the drive for the starter (M79) from?? Manchester area and part No.

Cheers
Dave
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Old 28-02-2003, 17:51   #17
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yes dave i will get on the case on monday
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Old 01-03-2003, 09:39   #18
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Away again? Lucky sod
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Old 01-03-2003, 11:40   #19
alexf2828
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the car is still starting every time(after 1week) and has just flown through the MOT,didn't fail on front discs like I thought!
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Old 01-03-2003, 19:00   #20
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did you no dave to take my zs to jamica they wont 93 percent of the secondhand value .and ps i got www.mg-rover.org on the bottem of my plates looks good
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