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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I’ve been having an intermittent problem for months now, whereby my alarm goes off around 5 in the morning, annoying the neighbours no end. I had to send my Pektron off to Technozen to get another problem fixed, and haven't had the problem for 2 months now, so was hoping he’d mysteriously fixed that too… but the horn started beeping at 7:30 this morning. I’m insomniac, usually being awake most of the night, then going into a deep sleep for an hour or so at… you’ve guessed it, 7:30, so not happy.


I stumbled outside, stopped the noise with the fob, left the boot slightly open to stop it re-arming, and went back to bed. Now, having just got up again, I went out, closed the boot, and locked the car with the key in the door, to test if it’s the volumetric sensors.


However… when I turned the key, it locked etc, but my horn beeped briefly. On my Rover 75, this means you’ve left a door/boot open somewhere – does it work the same way with this Pektron system?


If so, it would obviously help me to isolate the problem…


Cheers guys :D


PS I’ve been told about the microswitches in the doors, and the wiring loom in the boot – guess I’ll look at them when the weather’s a little less brutal.


Update: right, just now the horn started going, so if I've done it right, this means it isn't the volumetrics... so does the horn beep on locking with the key also indicate a door switch?


Thanks
 

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Hogweed, I feel your pain.


My '05 TF (Pektron scu) developed odd passenger door locking problems, locked me out and sounded the alarm in a supermarket car park late at night...


Subsequently I smashed the lock off the locked pass. door (through the weatherstrip), replaced it with a used lock that turned out to be equally faulty, replaced that with another, meanwhile had the wiring checked (2hrs charged!) - still no relief - then finally sent the scu away for Technozen's magic skills.


At this time I was 3 weeks into the fix cos I'd left the weather strip off and the firm checking the wiring left the car outside in the worst storm ever which meant carpet up and seats out to dry in the sunshine, leading to me finding a rusty leak in the rear under T-bar bulkhead as well...


Thoroughly frantic + miffed, in order to cover all eventualities, I asked Paul at Technozen to replace all five relays in the scu rather than any singletons.


Final relief! Hindsight is wonderful and I realised that the 'TF scu relays upgrade' should have been the first option rather than the last. Btw did he replace all 5 of yours?


Yes, I found the single beep meant there was a 'door/boot/bonnet open'. In my naivety I thought this meant all was ok...hope you sort it soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hogweed, I feel your pain.

Cheers… from what you say here, I’m glad I don’t feel yours :surprise:

Final relief! Hindsight is wonderful and I realised that the 'TF scu relays upgrade' should have been the first option rather than the last. Btw did he replace all 5 of yours?

Mine was sent to him for a different problem (very low transmitter range), but the previous owner had the relays replaced by our local MG/Rover genius. Unfortunately, I don’t know if he did them all or not, and I doubt if anyone remembers, a year later :frown:

Yes, I found the single beep meant there was a 'door/boot/bonnet open'. In my naivety I thought this meant all was ok...hope you sort it soon.

Thanks, that gives me something to go on :grin:
 

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Hi Hogweed,
you can test the alarm system, I dunno if the following procedure still applies to a MY2005 but worth a shot I guess:

1. Ensure doors, boot lid and bonnet are closed
2. Sit in the driver's seat and close the door

The next 3 actions must be carried out within a couple of seconds of one another

3. depress the driver's door lock-pin
4. switsch the ignition on, off and on again
5. Raise the driver's door lock-pin

If the test mode has been entered correctly you'll hear a short beep from the horn and the immobilisation buzzer will sound.

Now:

- Opening either door, the bonnet or the boot lid, or operating the driver’s doorsill button, will cause the alarm LED to illuminate for approximately one second. If the LED does not illuminate, there is a system fault.
- The volumetric sensor can also be tested while in test mode. To test the volumetric sensor, press the unlock button on the remote handset several times. The alarm LED will illuminate for approximately 1 second each time movement is detected in the vehicle.

The test mode is cancelled by switching the ignition OFF.

(taken from Rob's MGF Gallery v4.0)


Could be a faulty microswitch in the doorlock, or a faulty cable in the boot wiring loom. Also make sure that your door lock pins move freely.

Good luck ! :)

 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's pants ... :frown:


Did you check the wiring behind the radio as well btw. ? This is also known to be a culprit !

Really, hadn't heard that... well, I had to go in there (below anyway) to remove the Pektron to send it off for attention, but there's just a horrible jumble of wires... what should I check?
 

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Just make sure that there are no blank cables making contact to any of the metal parts behind the radio. There are some sharp edges/corners which might cause a shortage.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just make sure that there are no blank cables making contact to any of the metal parts behind the radio. There are some sharp edges/corners which might cause a shortage.

OK thanks - am thinking of changing the stereo anyway. Does any standard head unit fit in the TF, as I assume? Do you happen to know if I need a cable adapter or anything?


Thanks :grin:
 

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OK thanks - am thinking of changing the stereo anyway. Does any standard head unit fit in the TF, as I assume? Do you happen to know if I need a cable adapter or anything?


Thanks :grin:

I'm not sure but think it's a straight fit as the TF has got an ISO-connector.
 

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Low battery voltage can cause alarms to go off at untimely moments...usually in the middle of the night! Could also be a cat sitting on the soft top.

TFs are well known for draining the battery if not either run almost every day or left with a battery charger/conditioner connected.
I had a continual problem with battery drainage during the 10 years I had my TF. My current ZS and previous ZR do/did it too. All 3 have Pectron electrics.
A solar charger works OK for the summer but a charger is best for the winter when light levels are low.
 

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I don’t know if this is still the case with the newer Pektron alarm but the older type of systems could be set off with someone a leaky old microwave oven.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Low battery voltage can cause alarms to go off at untimely moments...usually in the middle of the night! Could also be a cat sitting on the soft top.

Oh, believe me, I know… I have to run it about every 3 days to stop the battery going flat. But it has a brand new battery, and was well charged on a long run yesterday.



And my enormous Maine Coon does indeed sleep on the roof – but this morning, it went off twice as I was sitting watching it through the living room window. No cat, good battery, volumetric sensors turned off.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I don’t know if this is still the case with the newer Pektron alarm but the older type of systems could be set off with someone a leaky old microwave oven.

Heh - never heard that one. But the car's a fair distance from the nearest house's kitchen - also tends to go off in the middle of the night :wink:
 

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Herbie said:
.....you can test the alarm system, I dunno if the following procedure still applies to a MY2005 but worth a shot I guess.....
Thanks for that :D but I've been told it doesn't work any more with the Pektron system :(
Well, you've been told wrong then - the following is copied directly from technozen's first post in his General Pektron SCU thread in the "How do I" section of this forum:

technozen said:
SCU Self-Test Mode

Self Test Mode can be entered manually as follows;

* With the driver's door shut, depress the door sill button.
* Turn the ignition on, off and then back on again.
* Lift the driver's door sill button.

This sequence of events must be completed within approximately 5 seconds. On successful entry the horn will sound briefly as confirmation and the vehicle will become immobilised.
Once the self-test mode has been entered, normal functionality of the SCU is suspended and certain alarm related inputs can be tested. A transition on any of the switch inputs will cause the security LED to flash briefly to acknowledge the input.
The following inputs can be tested by manual operation in this fashion.
* Sill up
* Sill down
* Passenger / Rear doors open
* Drivers door open
* Bonnet open
* Boot open
* Key barrel switches
* Inertia switch
Failure to access the self-test mode indicates a problem with the sill up, sill down or ignition switch inputs.
A spare key will be required to test the key barrel switch inputs, as one will already be required to turn the ignition on.

 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes, I know about that thanks - but it does say somewhere on this or another forum that this routine doesn't work with my model. Unfortunately I have no idea now where I saw it.


I'll give it a try when I can find somebody to operate the boot/bonnet etc while I watch the dash...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So… just to clarify… the switches I’m going to disconnect in the doors, bonnet, and boot are closed when somebody opens anything, making the circuit, and triggering the alarm?


If they were all disconnected, I’d still be immobilised, but the alarm would never go off if the doors or boot/bonnet were opened…?
 
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