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mg_tf
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Had this with my 02 TF when I got it. Alarm would go off every now and then, normally at night. If it’s not obvious like the boot hinge wiring, then the alarm going off is because it thinks either the boot, bonnet or doors are open. I cleaned the boot mechanism, changed the bonnet switch, and it still went off. My car would lock and unlock ok, but sometimes it would not flash when it locked, and I could not double dead lock all the time, only worked intermittently.

The only thing that was left was the drivers lock mechanism and the micro switches inside it. Got a working drivers lock off eBay for £10, changed it and ever since it has worked perfectly. Alarm no longer has false activations, double locks etc...
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Had this with my 02 TF when I got it. Alarm would go off every now and then, normally at night. If it’s not obvious like the boot hinge wiring, then the alarm going off is because it thinks either the boot, bonnet or doors are open. I cleaned the boot mechanism, changed the bonnet switch, and it still went off. My car would lock and unlock ok, but sometimes it would not flash when it locked, and I could not double dead lock all the time, only worked intermittently.

The only thing that was left was the drivers lock mechanism and the micro switches inside it. Got a working drivers lock off eBay for £10, changed it and ever since it has worked perfectly. Alarm no longer has false activations, double locks etc...

Well, I was out driving it today (left the battery disconnected overnight for the neighbours’ sake), when a little light came on on the dash, suggesting the boot was open. Never seen it before.

Stopped, opened the boot, wiggled connectors, slammed the boot again – light out. But it came on again later. So I took the switch out, and examined it – all seemed in perfect nick. I’d like to examine the harness in the boot, but can’t figure out how to open the little brown clips that hold it to the body of the car…



So you might well be right, but given that the Boot Open light is coming on, I have to investigate that thoroughly first…


Anybody tell me how to open the brown clip, or where I can get a few new ones if I just break it?


Ta :smile:
 

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Brown "cable ties with clip" you can find on eBay or motor factor or electrical shop. Just put "cable tie with clip" in search engine and you will got plenty of them to choose.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Brown "cable ties with clip" you can find on eBay or motor factor or electrical shop. Just put "cable tie with clip" in search engine and you will got plenty of them to choose.

Thanks! Must have tried searching for EVERYTHING else but that combination of words :frown:
 

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Thanks! Must have tried searching for EVERYTHING else but that combination of words :frown:

Like: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Cable-Ties-4-100mm-Black-Releasable-with-frame-clip-Per-10/112136451638?hash=item1a1bda7636:g:upAAAOSwb4Vbsvti


You would be surprised how important is to use correct combination of words in search engine to get what you want fast. For me it is easy task, as I am in Internet things from their starts. Others do seem to struggle as I always hear "I did not use that combination of words", or "how you made such fast finding".
Anyhow, if I can help, I would be glad. :smile:
 

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I also saw your pictures on the-t-bar and what you did to boot switch. That spring is making connection to earth and by that giving info to system boot is opened. See if that makes any difference. Anyhow, I would buy door lock with switches, just in case ...
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I also saw your pictures on the-t-bar and what you did to boot switch. That spring is making connection to earth and by that giving info to system boot is opened. See if that makes any difference. Anyhow, I would buy door lock with switches, just in case ...

Thing is, like you say, it’s CLOSING the switch (ie letting the current flow) which tells the system that the boot is open… so, if I have a fault, it must be a short circuit somewhere, and not a break in the circuit. Which is harder to understand. Anyway, I’ve temporarily disabled the switch (held permanently open by a bit of tape) to see how that affects things for a while.


I’m sure I will have to look at the doors… but I’m not sure how to get to the mechanism, or what to look for. I have to be careful, as I have a tendency to break things…
 

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Rover electrics work on principle of ground connection break or make connection to ground. In case of alarm, you need to MAKE ground connection for alarm to go off.
So, your boot hinge wires are bare with wires touching metal thus making connection, or boot lock is making ground connection when it should not, or microwave interior sensor is picking something and making ground connection because of that, or door lock microswitch is faulty making ground connection when it should not.
For door lock mechanism with microswitches, I think that you need to replace whole lock.
 

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mg_tf
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Hi

Until you get it sorted, just unplug the horn connector under the bonnet instead of having to disconnect the battery every time.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Hi

Until you get it sorted, just unplug the horn connector under the bonnet instead of having to disconnect the battery every time.

Yes, that's Plan B. So far, whether it's my fiddling with the boot switch or locking with the key to disable the microwave sensor, it hasn't happened for a while.


I'll keep doing what I'm doing for a few weeks - if still no midnight romps, I'll start locking with the fob again, and see if the problem comes back...
 

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Some wonderful comments that aught to work. The simple solution is the check for insects in the car. Roaches are the worst as they are hard to find in the day or when the door light is on.

Added to this I suggest you note the weather. If windy then check your door and window sealing. Even if the window is slightly open and a wind blows from an oblique angle the alarm will sound. Not on all cars mind but a few like my own. I now make sure all windows are fully closed and never had a problem since.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Some wonderful comments that aught to work. The simple solution is the check for insects in the car. Roaches are the worst as they are hard to find in the day or when the door light is on.

Added to this I suggest you note the weather. If windy then check your door and window sealing. Even if the window is slightly open and a wind blows from an oblique angle the alarm will sound. Not on all cars mind but a few like my own. I now make sure all windows are fully closed and never had a problem since.
Thanks. Don’t think we get roaches here – polar bears regularly die of exposure. I did catch a spider in the car ages ago, and ejected it, but it happened again after that.


However… frantically touching wood… still hasn’t happened since I fiddled with the boot lid, and that’s a few weeks now. I’m still locking it with the key at night, and will continue to do so for months – then, if it still hasn’t gone off, I’ll start using the fob again and see what happens.


Another thing I’ve noticed is that the battery isn't running down at nearly the rate it was when I was locking it with the fob…
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Until you get it sorted, just unplug the horn connector under the bonnet instead of having to disconnect the battery every time.

So here we are, several alarm-free weeks later… and it went off at 6:30 this morning. I always lock the doors with key now, so I guess it isn't the volumetric sensor after all.


I’m just not going to start pulling doors apart etc – eyes too unfocused, fingers too shaky, temper too short. And I’m not going to buy a 2nd-hand door mech which might have the same problem.


So not too many alternatives left… short term, I’m going to disconnect the horn, but I need a longer term solution – wonder if it might be possible to connect the horn directly to the button, and bypass the wiring from the alarm…? Sounds an easier job than changing a door mech – I’m comfortable with wiring.
 

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Have you checked boot lock again?


Second thing, I am not sure disconnecting horn will help you in silencing alarm, because as it is Pektron equipped car, you have Batter Backed-Up Sounder unit, so you would need to disconnect it, not horn.
 

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mg_tf
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So not too many alternatives left… short term, I’m going to disconnect the horn, but I need a longer term solution – wonder if it might be possible to connect the horn directly to the button, and bypass the wiring from the alarm…? Sounds an easier job than changing a door mech – I’m comfortable with wiring.
I had to do exactly this for a friend, probably your easiest plan would be to put a relay in the horn circuit and pick up a switched feed to drive the relay. If you have a Lucas system you can get a switched supply from the passenger compartment fuse panel. If you've got a Pektron system it's not quite so easy but not difficult.

Your problem sounds an intermittent one so could be difficult to track down, a Pscan is a very useful tool as it lets you see all the alarm switches in real time and you can test them individually.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
>> Second thing, I am not sure disconnecting horn will help you in silencing alarm, because as it is Pektron equipped car, you have Batter Backed-Up Sounder unit, so you would need to disconnect it, not horn.

Thanks, I didn’t know that. Where is it please? Must admit, it SOUNDS like my horn…

>> Your problem sounds an intermittent one so could be difficult to track down, a Pscan is a very useful tool as it lets you see all the alarm switches in real time and you can test them individually.

Yeah intermittent things are always a nightmare, aren’t they… I imagine if I test (eg) the door switch, it’ll show up fine… then fail in another couple of weeks.

>>Wouldn't à T4 session tell you what set off the alarm?


I don’t know, but it’s a useful suggestion… I have to get her serviced soon, so I’ll ask him to do that – cheers.
 

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Battery back up sounder should be located underneath the plastic cover under the bonnet. The unit is visible once you remove the black plastic cover which fits around the washer bottle. It is housed in a very badly powder coated steel fabricated box.


However, this sounder is very bad for the ears, while horn is much lighter on the ears. Since you are more certain you hear your horns, then you might not have it, but horns are used. In that case, I am sorry for misguidance.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
However, this sounder is very bad for the ears, while horn is much lighter on the ears. Since you are more certain you hear your horns, then you might not have it, but horns are used. In that case, I am sorry for misguidance.

Oh, please don’t apologise – you’ve been extremely helpful to me. And – well, yes, to me it sounds like a horn, BUT it is extremely loud, so maybe you’re right!


I will go and find out if I can…
 
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