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No, does not look like it. This looks like plastic. It has to be secured by security bolts which you would need to drill out if you want to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
No, do not look like it. This looks like plastic. It has to be secured by security bolts which you would need to drill out if you want to replace it.

Ah OK, well, don't think there's anything else in there that looks like it.


Guess I'll trigger the alarm then disconnect the horns to see!
 

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Ok. That is it then.



If you would want to isolate horn from alarm it is doable, but I would need to investigate on diagrams and connectors what to do, but adding a relay would be needed, I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
If you would want to isolate horn from alarm it is doable, but I would need to investigate on diagrams and connectors what to do, but adding a relay would be needed, I think.

Thanks, as always that's very kind of you. I don't know though... you might go to all that trouble and then I maybe would never get round to it... I suppose, if the wire from the horn button goes to the relay box under the bonnet (at least, I think I saw one there :nerd: ), maybe it wouldn't be too difficult...
 

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Horn buttons go to Pektron box and horn relay is inside Pektron BCU. From BCU wires then go to horns themselves.

You would need to intercept wires from horn before BCU, add relay, take wire from fuse box, connect them all to relay and drive wire from relay to horn, cutting existing one.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Horn buttons go to Pektron box and horn relay is inside Pektron BCU. From BCU wires then go to horns themselves.

You would need to intercept wires from horn before BCU, add relay, take wire from fuse box, connect them all to relay and drive wire from relay to horn, cutting existing one.

Got you, thanks. I think I could do that. I'll probably think about it a long time first though :laugh:
 

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My neighbour drives a taxi, that used to set mine off, usually at 5am when he got back from a Friday night's working! Using the key cured that for me though.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
OK... small update. T4 shows the alarm log - the last few were related to the boonet, where I'd been fixing the switch; but the one before that was "Unknown Reason", which of course will be the "real" event :frown:






One good thing - T4 can turn he volumetric sensor off permanently :grin:
 

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OK, interesting development… well, a little anyway. Since my last post, so maybe 16 weeks ago, I’ve driven the car 1-3 times a week, then left it in the driveway as usual, locked with the fob (volumetric sensor has been disabled in T4).


No alarms all that time, until today… off went the alarm this morning. Locked and unlocked the car several times, but every time I locked it the alarm started again.


Now here’s an interesting thing that hasn’t happened before, as far as I can remember. When I locked the car with the fob this morning, the horn beeped, in the way it does to tell you a door or something is open. I opened and closed both doors and the boot several times (forgot about the bonnet as I couldn't reach it), but got the single horn beep every time. I left the car unlocked all day.


When I got back, I decided to try the diagnostic procedure – slightly limited as I’m on my own here, but did the best I could, and tried each lots of times (except the bonnet, as I couldn’t reach). Results as follows:


1) Driver's door courtesy light switch – OK
2) Passenger door(s) courtesy light switch – OK
3) Bonnet open switch – not tested
4) Boot open switch – always flashed the LED, BUT occasionally twice…?
5) Driver's sill button "up" switch – OK
6) Driver's sill button "down" switch – OK


Although I didn’t test the bonnet switch, I did find it corroded back in the summer, and sanded its contacts and greased them – it then worked fine, and I assume it’s still OK now.


Does anybody know what the double flash from the boot lid might mean? I did attend to that switch back in the summer…
 

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I do not know what double light means but I would test bonnet switch and boot switch. Actualy I would inspect them for corrosion and good contact.
What seemed fine then, does not necessarily mean they are fine now.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
What seemed fine then, does not necessarily mean they are fine now.

Yes, you're right of course, and I will look at them when I get the garage finished. But, although my knowledge of modern car electronics is limited, I do know how to clean contacts etc, and am quite meticulous about that sort of thing... and it's not rocket science.


The other thing is, I won't know for sure till I look at the switches again, but don't the boot and bonnet ones signal to the alarm when they close, not open? So corrosion should perhaps be less of a problem for false triggers anyway :irked:
 

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Alarm will sound when earth connection is made. If there is no earth connection no alarm. That means something is making connection. Usualy that is not properly shut boot or bonnet still making connection on the switch.

In case of bonnet, pressed switch means no connection when the bonnet is closed. De-pressed switch is earth connection, when the bonnet is opened.
In case of boot you have metal part in the boot lock that makes and breaks this connection.


Maybe to look at boot hinge and wires at that place?
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Maybe to look at boot hinge and wires at that place?

Yes I did do that too, back in the summer - I cut the cable open and inspected all the wires. I'm familiar with that problem, as a BMW I used to own had the same issue. But you could see that the wires were badly worn.


Obviously they COULD be broken internally, but I'm kind of hoping that a car which spent most of its life in a garage, and only 16,000 on the clock, wouldn't have bent these wires ofen enough to break them internally, but I don't know for sure.


Of course, I locked the car a couple of hours ago, and now it's all right again... sigh... so far...
 
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