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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As the title says, nearly nothing is coming to the bulb (in good order): 0.5 V only! :unsure:
I don't think that may be a fuse...
BTW which fuse is ruling the boot lamp? Is it F17? :unsure:
If so, it's the same ruling radio & cigar lighter which are working.
Where may lie the culprit?
Where is located the boot contactor?
Thanks a lot. :)
 

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As I can see fuse for boot lamp is number 2 in passenger compartment fusebox. However, that fuse covers some other things as well, like interior light.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks a lot @Roverlike.
But are you sure that your information is convenient to a 214 mk2 ? Because I've the Haynes electric sketch in front of me and the fuse is obviously the F17.
Nevertheless my interior light is working fine.
Maybe it's different from the mk3. Regarding the interior fuse box it is on the driver's side below the wheel.
Anyway all my fuses look in good order and the boot bulb as well.
So I don't know why it's not working... :confused:
 

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mg_tf
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Try stripping the cover back from the section of harness which runs from the body to the boot lid and examining the cables. Prone to breaking due to flexing over the years.
 

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For the fusebox: You have engine compartment fusebox and passanger compartment fusebox. Passanger compartment fusebox is on the driver side of the passanger compartment.
Compartment is the key word here.
I do not intend to invent new words for something which is known in automotive industry for a long time...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
For the fusebox: You have engine compartment fusebox and passenger compartment fusebox. Passenger compartment fusebox is on the driver side of the passenger compartment.
Compartment is the key word here.
I do not intend to invent new words for something which is known in automotive industry for a long time...
Sorry dear fellow companion: my previous answer may have been a bit stiff.
I'd involuntarily taken the word 'passenger' at its face value. For me the word 'cabin' or 'interior' is more convenient because 'passenger' may also be a reference to the side, which I find confusing.
I'm neither an engineer nor a mechanic you know, only a literary scholar conditioned by his former job! ;) :cool:
But you're 100% right: it's in use since ages in the automotive industry.
I had no intention to argue on a matter which isn't in my comfort zone and I very willingly apologize.
Anyway I'm still stuck with my problem... ;)
 

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In your first post you say that voltage measured is 0.5 Volts instead of 12 Volts which you should have.
Power wire of the boot light is connected directly, to fuse, and to power of the car battery. Ground wire of the boot light is connected to switch which is in the latch of the boot lid. This switch works in the same principle like yours in your R25.
If I would read only what you said regarding Volts reading, it would be that you have some brake in the power line since you are reading too low Voltage. However I am keen to ask how you make this measure? If you measured voltage between these two wires coming to boot light then you most probably have bad contact in the boot lid latch.
If you measured between power wire and car metal body, then you have problem in the power wire somwhere along the line.
If you suspect to boot lid latch then you need to clean it properly for good contact (clean inside parts of boot lid latch).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
In your first post you say that voltage measured is 0.5 Volts instead of 12 Volts which you should have.
Power wire of the boot light is connected directly, to fuse, and to power of the car battery. Ground wire of the boot light is connected to switch which is in the latch of the boot lid. This switch works in the same principle like yours in your R25.
If I would read only what you said regarding Volts reading, it would be that you have some brake in the power line since you are reading too low Voltage. However I am keen to ask how you make this measure? If you measured voltage between these two wires coming to boot light then you most probably have bad contact in the boot lid latch.
If you measured between power wire and car metal body, then you have problem in the power wire somewhere along the line.
If you suspect to boot lid latch then you need to clean it properly for good contact (clean inside parts of boot lid latch).
Thank you.
I tested the voltage between the 2 wires. Hence if I've well understood I assume that the problem may (or should?) be in the boot lid latch.
I'll have a close look. If unsuccessful I'll leave it to my good mechanic...
 

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ROVER 25 and a ROVER CABRIOLET
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It may well be the boot loom going from the boot lid to the body as it is a common fault, mine is shagged currently. :sneaky:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It may well be the boot loom going from the boot lid to the body as it is a common fault, mine is shagged currently. :sneaky:
Bingo! The loom was nearly entirely knackered! All wires have been replaced et voilà boot light is back!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Awesome, any tips or tricks as I need to do mine?
Unlike the start button I fitted myself, I can't help you very much on that matter: the mechanic did it! Sorry :(.
 

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ROVER 25 and a ROVER CABRIOLET
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Lost count how many 25 boot looms I have fixed, at least the R8 is only about 4 or 5 wires. :D
 
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