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cityrover
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Central locking/remote

putting the key in the door and lock/unlock the central locking as you found sorts the imobiliser when the micro switch is working lol

the holding of the remote button after changing the battery for a few seconds makes for a panic first time the job is done

door code entering via the key is only for emergency be carful with remotes dont drop them
 

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rover_45
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Well the code can be obtained off a member on hear or an X-Part outlet. However I dont trust either sources because I know how incomplete the orginal database was and if the 5AS was changed at any point the code will not have been updated.

However its worth a shot from either as the code on the database will be the same for both parties. The X-Part route will be more dear mind.

As for a fob again an X-Part job or sombody with the right equipment to program a new one in. If you go that route you can get the EKA code at the same time with no charge as it comes up on the equipment.
 

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rover_45
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putting the key in the door and lock/unlock the central locking as you found sorts the imobiliser when the micro switch is working lol

the holding of the remote button after changing the battery for a few seconds makes for a panic first time the job is done

door code entering via the key is only for emergency be carful with remotes dont drop them
Not strickly true. On the early cars that use the 14VT it will disarm the immobliser and alarm. On the 5AS model cars the immobliser will remain armed untill the EKA code is entered or a working fob disarms the alarm.

If you have the later 2 socket alarm box then a coil tranducer upgrade can help with a broken fob as many broken fobs I have seen over the years still respond to the interigation from the transducer even though the buttons or battery cage is naffed.
 

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cityrover
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the battery cage on remotes are very fragile sliding the batteries gently is a must

also the post talks of the car battery being flat and the remote battery being changed a bad combo as it will loose its tuning in remote batteries are better changed as a matter of course

the micro switch problem! well rover electrics can be iffy at times door interior light switches as an example
 

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rover_45
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Indeed they can by iffy. It also doesnt help that over the years diffrent cars got diffrent ecu's at diffrent times in production builds etc.
 

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classic_rover
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I just got a Rover 200 series a few days ago. Been nicely driving it around without problem till last night. When we were cleaning the inside of the car we must of knocked the lights and they killed the battery.

We charged it up, but now every time we open the car the bloody alarm goes off. Or if you try to start the car with ignition position 2 the alarm goes off.

The car also refuses to turn over which I guess is to do with the immobiliser.

We don't have a key fob and the previous owner didn't either. He seems to think it never had one? We also have no EKA code. Any ideas?

I heard even with the EKA code its something that you would have to input every time you opened the car.
 

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I just got a Rover 200 series a few days ago. Been nicely driving it around without problem till last night. When we were cleaning the inside of the car we must of knocked the lights and they killed the battery.

We charged it up, but now every time we open the car the bloody alarm goes off. Or if you try to start the car with ignition position 2 the alarm goes off.

The car also refuses to turn over which I guess is to do with the immobiliser.

We don't have a key fob and the previous owner didn't either. He seems to think it never had one? We also have no EKA code. Any ideas?

I heard even with the EKA code its something that you would have to input every time you opened the car.
once you have entered the eka code the immobiliser is off untill its reset with the fob again i think so only need to enter code one time then just use key in door lock as normal.
 

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classic_rover
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Well I just tried to get a EKA code and they said my model was before they had a key fob. The garage seems to think disconnecting the battery for 20 mins or so will reset something in the door to do with the immobiliser. He seemed to remember these cars having said problem and I should try. Not that he was certain
 

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classic_rover
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Right found a Fix after speaking to some specialists over the phone, they were good enough to provide the details. Thought I'd leave the instructions for anyone else who may have the problem in the future.

This was for a Rover 214 Cabriolet L Reg. This will work for the older models that don't have Key fobs.

Method 1

1. Remove Negative from battery
2. Remove Positive from battery
3. Touch the wires of Negative and positive together. This completely removes the charge from the car. This is the wires to the battery your connecting together not the battery itself
4. Insert your key in the ignition to position 2.
5. Reconnect your battery
6. Move key to position 3, car should start.

When the battery dies the car thinks someone is trying to steal the thing and the immobiliser kicks in. Following the above in effect resets the system. This fixed the problem for me. I guess we will have to do it again if the battery goes dead.

The specialists told me a few other things if this doesn't work.

Method B
micro-switches in the door as the previous poster mentioned. Under wear and tear they have a bad habit of bending. Apparently the door has more then one and its just a case of locating the problem Finding a spare or in some cases bending them back.

Method C - I not sure if he meant doing this after following method 1

Make sure all the door, windows, bonnet etc are shut secure then a bit harder the usual unlock the door. He mentioned something about the mechanisms after wear and tear being beyond the turning points.

Method D

Check the fuses by the battery. Some of these are associated with the alarm and immobiliser.

Hope this helps.
 

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Rover 214 Immobiliser Won't Disarm

After trying all the other techniques I found on-line, an AA patrol man made this suggestion which worked first time for me - battery out of fob then back in again. A few presses and the immobiliser was off.

I hope that helps someone else in the same situation to me.
 
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