Erm, this is the front of my TF and Fs are similar. I don't think you'll be able to get at the screws just above the MG badge but if you can wrangle the others you might be able to free up enough room to get your hand in there and pop it somehow.
I haven't tried this myself but I think I'd be starting underneath the front like this. Once you've opened it up I think (off the top of my head) the cable runs in a sheath down one side of the engine bay but I'd need to check.
I expect others on the forum will pile in with better info but I hope this gives you confidence to 'wade in' and get started. I find it helps to see it in bits before swinging spanners around...
The trouble is, those who know how to open the bonnet with a broken release cable usually wouldn't say on an open forum, and asked whoever it was to PM them, but no one so far here seems to know a foolproof method! If it isn't just a stretched cable or similar (where you might be able to pull on the inner wire of the release cable from the boot, with pliers) or poor lubrication, then the only clue I heard about a method that works seemed to involve a long (15'') screwdriver, trying to deflect the catch from below. Possibly with someone pressing down on the bonnet at the catch point to release pressure on the catch. Trouble is, I know there is a sort of oblong steel security box below the bonnet release receptacle (at least, on my 04 TF) so it isn't obvious how having a long screwdriver will allow access to the bonnet release catch itself. It comes in from the left of the bonnet release hole (if you're standing in front of the bonnet looking in) so that would be where to look, but like I say, not sure how to get past the security box.
PS: It should be possible to charge up the battery from the boot (via a trickle charger - do not useanything like jump leads or boost battery which might melt a cable), just to get you going. Any circuit that uses 12V and is accessible should also be able to take charge to the battery, if it is switched on. Earth is accessible easily via any exposed metalwork of course. It would be better to try and backfeed (and charge) the battery from a point which can ordinarily handle a few amps.
Nocturneblue's has essentially described how to do the procedure and the issue being the security plate that you have to bend a tab on first before you can see the latch and the catch you have to move with the long screwdriver. If your car has A/C its going to be even more difficult to do because of the A/C's condenser in front of the radiator.
Just a brief comment on the new Toyo TR1 tyres I have recently fitted on my TF (16 inch wheels).
Previously I found a bit of wander on the Falken 914's that I had fitted before I replaced them with the new tread pattern TR1 Toyos. That has completely disappeared with the new Toyo treads.
Hi all I'm looking for a cheap 1.8 MGTF project car for a few 100 quid. around the Farnborough North Hampshire area. Something that drives/doesn't drive good bad body work, rust I can deal with, just not too much please.
If you know of anything please let me know.
As i live in Northern Ireland i cannot sell my collection of MG TF's for love nor money,
I still have 5 left, all 135's, all with SS coolant pipes, New or perfect subframe mounts, New rear windows,
All have sailed through strict N.I. MOT's, but now most expired,
So now time to break them for...
Today have got to remove the failed front pipe.. Dammned thing has broken in the flexi. The outer mesh is fine it is the inner corrogated bit that has failed and this pipe was new in January.
This is the second one to fail like this .............................. first one was the replacemnt on...
I've a 2004 TF that I'm hoping to restore. I'm having a problem with the immobiliser that I'm hoping someone here may have some advice on.
The car was originally layed up as the head gasket went. The battery went dead. Later when I changed the battery, the key fob wouldn't turn off the...