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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, going to attempt some diy mechanics (change coolant) does the ti have a drain plug? If not what is the best way to drain? Also once refilled with antifreeze does the system have some sort of bleed valve? If not what is the best way to bleed system? Thanks
 

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If only the old RoverTech site wasn't dead, I'd cross refer you to my "How to change T16 water pump" sticky.


The quick answer to your Qs is "No" and "Maybe". If you have an AC equipped car then the top hose to rad, with the thermostat in it, has a bleed screw on it; otherwise no bleed screw.


Turn the cabin heater dial to fully hot.


Place minimum 7L bucket/container under radiator.


Remove expansion tank cap.


Undo the bottom hose on the rad (on a RH drive car it's on the passenger side) and let old coolant out.


Reconnect hose.


Fill with coolant. You should be able to fill about 5L with no problems (the syatem takes 7L). When filling the final couple of litres keep squeezing the rad top hose.


When expansion tank is up to "Max" mark stop adding coolant.


Start engine and run for about 10 mins with the expansion cap off. This should bleed the system (T series meant to be one of the easiest to bleed). Top up coolant to "Max" (if required) and tighten up expansion tank cap.




Robert's your mother's brother.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for that, it is the a/c model. I’ll give it a go next weekend and let you know how I get on.
 

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Just be damn careful with that bleed screw in the top hose; it's plastic. It shouldn't be overly tight (to undo), or tightened when replacing (finger tight should be enough).


That hose (and thus the bleed screw) are NLA (have been for quite some years in fact).




To add; if working from above the car you'll need to take the battery* and battery tray out to gain acces to the bottom rad hose and thus undo the jubilee clip. If working from underneath, you'll need to remove the plastic under tray to gain access.






*if disconnecting the battery make sure you know the PIN/security code for the stereo (if it has/needs one).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The rarity of that top hose does scare me, do i actually need to use that bleed screw to bleed the system?
 

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I don't know.


I'm guessing it's there because of the thermostat being in the pipe itself, so maybe it generates airlock (non-AC cars there's a thermo housing where that pipe joins the block.


I've never tried without removing it; was rather blaise about it until I found out it was NLA, then started bricking it everytime I had to do it.


Guess you'll have to try it and see.
 
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