MG-Rover.org Forums banner
21 - 39 of 39 Posts

·
Registered
rover_400_95_99
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
That is correct - the strengthened oil rail wasn't available until early 2006; nearly a year after the last MG Rover engines were built ('New Take-Off' simply means that the part was removed from a part-built car or part built engine on the production line after MG Rover had gone bust. The parts had been fitted, but not used).

I am not sure what precise difference there is between the genuine MG Rover/Land Rover one (which I think will have been manufactured by Hyundai), and the aftermarket one which appears from the picture to be made by BGA. BGA are a perfectly reputable supplier of aftermarket parts so I would not think there should be anything wrong with really. However, if it was my car, I would tend to favour the genuine MG Rover or Land Rover supplied parts I think (purely a personal choice and based on no particular evidence of knowledge!).

The oil rail bolts to the underside of the crankshaft ladder, so there will be no need to remove the crank ladder or crankshaft to replace the oil rail, and the only other thing that you will need will be the anaerobic sealant to apply between the new oil rail and the crankshaft ladder. The same sealant can be used to reseal the sump to the bottom of the block (Loctite 574 is the one that has always been most recommended around the forum).

I would also be inclined to use the 6-layer N-series gasket along with the strengthened rail and higher tensile through bolts (available as a complete kit from XPart agents under part number ZUA000531, although quite expensive at nearly £200). You would also need to check that there is sufficient stand proud of the cylinder liner above the block, and that the liners are of even height above the block to reliably use either of the multi layer type gaskets - probably 2 to 4 thou measured using a metal straight-edge and feeler gauges.

NB: the SAIC/N series gasket and bolts have a different tightening sequence from both the original K series elastomer gasket and the first type Multi Layer steel gasket (MLS - often referred to as the 'Land Rover' gasket as it became available through Land Rover first) 9.8 tensile bolts.

SLS/Elastomer gasket and 9.8 bolts = 20 Nm + 180 degrees +180 degrees

MLS ('Land Rover') gasket and shim with 9.8 bolts = 20Nm + 180 degrees + 180 degrees

SAIC/ N series gasket and 10.9 bolts = 20Nm + 180 degrees + 135 degrees

I don't think I would bother with the PRT thermostat - much is made of it in some quarters, but MG Rover fitted it as standard to the 75/ZT 1.8 turbo and to late MG TFs, but there is no evidence that it actually made any measurable difference - the head gasket failure rate remained similar to that of engines with no PRT.

I wouldn't take much notice of people who go on about 'thermal stress' or 'thermal shock' with regards to the K series; it really isn't an issue, particularly with regard to the head gasket. During the development of the K series, Rover couldn't get the K series head gasket to fail at all using the industry standard thermal shock test, and had to devise an even more extreme test to cause the K series gasket to fail. This suggests that the original K series elastomer head gasket is rather less affected by thermal shock than most 'conventional' head gaskets.
Thank´s again Man in the car for great information!

No I have ordered the ZUA000531 kit from Rimmer bros. I skip the PRT termostat so I´m saving some money and work too (y):).
No it just to wait, I live in Sweden but in best case I have the parts before next weekend and can fix the car then.

Thank´s and best regards!

Martin
 

·
Registered
rover_400_95_99
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Like this was the oil after i emtied the motor, or rather the oil- and coolantmix.
136880
 

·
Registered
rover_400_95_99
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Here is the new oil rail, head gasket and head bolts from Rimmer Bros, the ZUA000531 kit from them. Thank you Rimmer bros and UPS for fast and excelent delivery!
136897
 

·
Registered
rover_400_95_99
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
Here you can see the different between the old and the new oil rail. The new one has two extra longitudinal reinforcements, you see the difference best in picture three.
136894
136895
136896
 

·
Registered
rover_400_95_99
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Here i have put some sealant on before I mount the new oil rail in place. In picture two the new oil rail is mounted.
136887
136888
 

·
Registered
rover_400_95_99
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
Hi!
But i have some problems left. It is some quite wild knocking on low revs, when i rev the engine it disappears, what can it be?
I have changed the inlet manifold gasket and it didn´t help.
I guess it could be the outlet manifold that isn´t thight enough, I miss the middle nut. I tighten the nuts and no different in the sound/noise from the engine.
It could be a valve and a lifter that makes the noise. It seems to be on the side near the air filter who is making the noise. Maybe it has been damaged when the oil was mixed with coolant?
It could be the timing that I must adjust some more.
What is your ieda?

Or I can just drive around and se if it´s gets better!?

I haved also done an oil flush to remove any contaminated oil from the system as Man in the car hinted me to do. And it was realy needed.

Im thinking to put some Wynns hydraulic valve lifter concentrate in the motor also.

Best regards!

Martin
 

·
Registered
rover_400_95_99
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Hi again!

I took my car to work today, 35 kilometer one way. It runs uneven and shake a little upp to 3 000 - 3 500 revs and it does not respond as it should, not the torque as before. But over 3 500 revs it´s like music in my ears. The temperature is on the right spot al the time, not overheating. And now the car isn´t leaking any coolant.

My guess is the timing needs to be adjusted, i had same struggle when I mounted the engine and adjusted the timingbelt.
Or it could be one or two of the hydraulic lifters.
It could also be both or something else of course because I hear different sounds, noise from the engine.

If anyone have any idea feel free to give me a tip!

Best regards!

Martin
 

·
Registered
rover_400_95_99
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Hi again!

The timing was spot on, the best I´ve done as far as I can remember, se pictures. And on high revs it feels real nice.
But on the low revs not so good, it is a little weak and runs uneven when idling. Maybe it´s becoming a little better and better, so I drive some more and se whats happen.
Thinking of doing a engine clean once again and then change oil filter and put some 10 W 40 oil in the motor to see if it helps.

I wasn´t so thorough when i reassembled the engine so maybe some dirt come in the oil channels to the hydraulic lifters?
Maybe I also was a little to generous with the sealent so it have come loose and in some oil channels too?

I also begining to think that it could be something with the fuel injection and the inlet manifold. Could be some noise from the injectors. When I started the engine after reassembling it I had forgotten a rag in the the air filter and the engine reved real high. Maybe I try some injector cleaner.

Any ideas?

Best regards!

Martin

136898
136899
 

·
Registered
rover_400_95_99
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Hi!
I think i am on the right track regarding the uneven revs on the engine when running on low revs.
See the picture, the second inlet channel from The left, a darker dirty look inside of it. I think it's some problem with the injector, have put some cleaner in the gas rank, hope it solves the problem.

Any ideas what to do?

Best regards!
Martin
136910
 

·
Registered
MG ZT, Rover 25
Joined
·
5,748 Posts
Hi, yes I think fuel additive and new oil is a good idea. I’ve noticed an engine can take time to settle down after a HG change as the valves are drier and there is stuff burning off that has got into the wrong channel. Also, check for leaks in the intake (including tubes and sensors) and exhaust. And any plugs / connectors you may have not reconnected properly.
 

·
Registered
rover_400_95_99
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
Hi, yes I think fuel additive and new oil is a good idea. I’ve noticed an engine can take time to settle down after a HG change as the valves are drier and there is stuff burning off that has got into the wrong channel. Also, check for leaks in the intake (including tubes and sensors) and exhaust. And any plugs / connectors you may have not reconnected properly.
Thanks Gnu!

I will look in to your suggestions. I think the car maybe has become a little better on low revs, but i could be wishful thinking from me as well.
But checking for leaks I shall do, it´s a little mosey sound a while after I turn of the engine, but i have not located it yet.

Otherwise the upgrade is a succes I think, the engine feels much stiffer, solid than before. Reving to 7 000 rpm:s no problem.
So I just can´t wait for it to run even and strong the whole speed register as it runs from 4 000 - 7 000 rpm.

Best regard!

Martin

PS: The engine probably also revs better because now there is only oil where it shold be and coolant where it should be. DS.
 

·
Registered
MG ZT, Rover 25
Joined
·
5,748 Posts
Worth checking the engine in the morning when it’s cold. I‘ve had leaks that either aren’t there on a hot engine, or aren’t visible due to evaporation (especially under the IMG). One trick is parking on a clean bit of cardboard and inspect it for drips in the morning.
 

·
Registered
rover_400_95_99
Joined
·
84 Posts
Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Hi again!
I becoming more and more sure that it´s the injector with the dirty inlet channel from the picture above. I have driven nearly 200 kilometers since I put som injection cleaner in the tank, and maybe a little improvement. But it´s a distinct clicking noice from that injector as far as I can hear. It looks like i have to change this injector.

Or is it best to change all four?

Best Regards!

Martin

PS. I can´t se any loose tubes and sensors or hoses, no obvious leaks either. And the exhaust manifold is OK. DS.
 
21 - 39 of 39 Posts
Top