MG-Rover.org Forums banner

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi people help required my daugters MGTF 2004 heater control
wont turn heat off , its not the knob but it wont turn fully round any help would be appreciated as my daughters car usually costs me money.
thanks Al
 

·
In the Garage
mg_tf
Joined
·
32,826 Posts
Welcome :)

Is this the heat level control that you are having the problem with not the fan speed?
 

·
In the Garage
mg_tf
Joined
·
32,826 Posts
If you remove the side panels (that contain the foot-well lights) then you should be able to see a connector rod that goes from the back of the knob to the heater valve, my guess is that it's become disconnected.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
695 Posts
Hello all thank you for letting me join. I have a heater problem

I saw a previouse heater cant turnn off fault and as advised looked behind the panel in the centre console. I have a cable linkage which works fine so suggests the other end but where does it go?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
695 Posts
Hello did this work carpetbagger? I have posted a similar fault but have a cable linkage that works fine in the cab but where does it go???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,233 Posts
OK well if the linkage on the knob and valve is OK, and the coolant is circulating then you need a new valve.

Or do you mean - where is the valve - about 6" from the knob on the RH side in the centre console
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,233 Posts
Well its got a crank on it that the cable operates. Clearly your valve is open. If it turns and doesn't close the flow of coolant, its broke :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
695 Posts
Ive had a read and a think and according to some strings it could be gunk in my coolant clogging the valve. I have no water in the oil but oil in the coolant. This could be a bad hg repair or condensation according to strings. I have no other signs of HGF. Where is it best to drain the coolant to flush. Sorry but this is a new car to me , Im not familiar with engines I cant get at and trying to get it sorted
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,233 Posts
Ok Last try.

If the valve is clogged, its unlikely to be passing coolant and your heater will blow cold. You seem to have the opposite problem in that it won't close and the heater blows hot all the time.

If you've got oil in your coolant this is something different that also needs looking at.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,647 Posts
so no chance it would stick open.?
Given most heaters tend to be stuck in the open position for 6 months of the year the first time you close the valve come the warmer months there is a chance the valve could jam fully or partly open allowing hot coolant to still flow through the heater matrix even though the dial is in the cold position..

It could just be a case of freeing the heater valve by moving it by hand back and to a few times to 'free it up' and you might be sorted..... of course it could also be jammed solid so would need replacement!.

Have a look on this link which shows the heater controls and Valve...

http://www.mgfcar.de/heater/index.htm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
heater problem

hi thanks peaople the problem is with the heater controle not turning completly round the heat is on all the time , how dose the spindle controle the heating and how do i get to it to check
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts
Hiho,

I had some hassles with this same problem when I first got my TF earlier this year...blasting hot air all the time!

Take off the RH centre console panel...the one down by the driver's left leg. In there you will see the end of the control cable (red on my motor). There are a couple of things that happen...firstly the dippy plastic cam pops off the peg on the valve arm (easy to ping it back on); secondly the valve arm swings to the top of the valve and requires pushing back down to the bottom; thirdly, the cable end either slips or becomes detatched. The last one is easy enough to fix but is difficult to describe...unclip the spingy clip, set the cam/lever to the fully closed position and the knob to the cold position and reclip the cable end. I have found that the cable slips again if I try to use the full range of rotation of the knob (ooerr!), so I don't do that any more...mine goes from cold at 10 o'clockish to hot at 2 o'clockish and seems to work okay. The problem with mine seems to be that the wiggly slot in the plastic cam means the pin gets hung up and sometimes needs a bit of persuasion to move past the corner in the slot.

I am working on a permenant fix for this whole problem, which will entail a plastic quadrant (like that on the throttle body) which is operated directly by the bowden cable.

Hope that helps.

Tra

Pig.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
Top