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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, My name is Carole and I live in the east midlands.
At the moment i'm MGless :cry: But working on it.:)

However I'm on the verge of bying an MGF any time now however the one I have my eye on has a paint problem and I wondering if anyone here could give me some advice?

Ok firstly don't even try and talk me out of buying an MGF/TF because I'm already nad as a hatter.
The car I'm interestead in has a perlecent paint job which I think is very fetching, however the bonnet and the Bootlid have both suffered from pleeling top coat. (I'm going to try and post some pictures)
I have asked one local body shop and they say it's a full rpaint job at about £2000. I used to work in a body repair shop and I know that paints can be matched so I would assume this car would be no different and it would just be boot lid and bonnet pluss a macine polish all round?
The owner however has told me the the lacquer cote is actually a peressence top coat and the is all it needs and new pearlessent top coat?

So what do you guys/girls think?
136653


136654
 

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From my experiance you are correct, omly bootlid and bonnet needs to be redone as paint can be matched. Howecer, they both need to be painted and top coated as anyrhing less than that will not give satisfying result.
You will just need to find shop willing to do just these two surfaces and match colour.
 

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'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
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Welcome to the forum :)

I think the current owner is wrong on two counts - firstly, I am pretty sure that the pearl in Amaranth is part of the base colour coat, and it is over coated with a clearcoat lacquer (in common with most paints of that time). Regardless of that, it is never possible to simply respray with the the clearcoat only because it will not bond to the old hardened basecoat - the area of failed clearcoat will be very likely to still show up, and the new clearcoat will be highly likely to fail again quite quickly. It is also likely that other areas of the old clear will already be starting to fail and will continue to become unbonded from the basecoat under any new clear that is applied.

The whole bonnet and boot will need to be sanded smooth and resprayed properly. After this many years of sunlight on it, it may be that the original colour has faded a little, or there may be a slight difference in the newly mixed colour which may necessitate blending the new paint onto the surrounding panels. A full respray would obviate the need to worry about achieving a close colour/flip match, so it was simpler for the bodyshop to quote for a full respray if they don't have the confidence or ability to match/blend the colour? An absolutely perfect panel to panel match is almost impossible to achieve, no matter how good/skilled the paint sprayer is.

The paint is reasonably straightforward to sort out. I would pay more attention to the condition underneath the car - these are well known for rust and rot attacking components on the underside (especially suspension parts and the coolant pipes which go to and from the radiator at the front of the car. Haaving said that, and reasonably early 1996/97 F will have been better built than the later TFs which were manufactured when MG Rover were cutting back on almost everything as they descended into bankruptcy.

Looking at the aftermarket rear lights, exhaust and roll hoops and what looks like a glass rear screen, it makes me think it has at some point been an enthusiast owned car, so has possibly been looked after and maintained better than some examples.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
From my experiance you are correct, omly bootlid and bonnet needs to be redone as paint can be matched. Howecer, they both need to be painted and top coated as anyrhing less than that will not give satisfying result.
You will just need to find shop willing to do just these two surfaces and match colour.
Thank you roverlike that was what I was thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome to the forum :)

I think the current owner is wrong on two counts - firstly, I am pretty sure that the pearl in Amaranth is part of the base colour coat, and it is over coated with a clearcoat lacquer (in common with most paints of that time). Regardless of that, it is never possible to simply respray with the the clearcoat only because it will not bond to the old hardened basecoat - the area of failed clearcoat will be very likely to still show up, and the new clearcoat will be highly likely to fail again quite quickly. It is also likely that other areas of the old clear will already be starting to fail and will continue to become unbonded from the basecoat under any new clear that is applied.

The whole bonnet and boot will need to be sanded smooth and resprayed properly. After this many years of sunlight on it, it may be that the original colour has faded a little, or there may be a slight difference in the newly mixed colour which may necessitate blending the new paint onto the surrounding panels. A full respray would obviate the need to worry about achieving a close colour/flip match, so it was simpler for the bodyshop to quote for a full respray if they don't have the confidence or ability to match/blend the colour? An absolutely perfect panel to panel match is almost impossible to achieve, no matter how good/skilled the paint sprayer is.

The paint is reasonably straightforward to sort out. I would pay more attention to the condition underneath the car - these are well known for rust and rot attacking components on the underside (especially suspension parts and the coolant pipes which go to and from the radiator at the front of the car. Haaving said that, and reasonably early 1996/97 F will have been better built than the later TFs which were manufactured when MG Rover were cutting back on almost everything as they descended into bankruptcy.

Looking at the aftermarket rear lights, exhaust and roll hoops and what looks like a glass rear screen, it makes me think it has at some point been an enthusiast owned car, so has possibly been looked after and maintained better than some examples.
Thank you Maninacar That is exactly my experience when working in the bodyshop I was just not sure of the paint as back when I was working we had changes to water based paints, but yes rub down and flat and it shoulb OK.
Just as a side comment I did think about bonnet boot and hood in black the bonnet and hood in mat and the fitted hood looks a bit tatty so could do with a new one, thoughts?

Coo look at me I'm in my 60's and looking and boy raced coulors! :LOL:
 

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I see from the MoT Check site that it has done less than 2000 miles in 10 years, has it been serviced in that time, for example has the cam belt been changed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I see from the MoT Check site that it has done less than 2000 miles in 10 years, has it been serviced in that time, for example has the cam belt been changed?
Hi Chris nice to "meet" you.

The seller said there si evedence that the head gasket, cambelt and water pump were done about a 1000 miles ago with proof, but now you mention it. That was at least 2017 ok for the life of the components but it has hardly been out of the grarage.
I think I will go for option two a 2001 MGF Steptronic, however the question then is what is the auto box like? As for the car itself it does look very well looked after but a look at it in the flesh will tell me more

Thank you for pointing that out (y)
 

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I do like that purple. I looked at a 200 in that colour years ago, but walked away for exactly your reason, the paint work had deteriorated. :cautious:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Guy/Girls,

I have discounted the purple car now I think the paint will be a problem as lovely as it looks, also it doesn't look the bargain I thought it was as was pointed out by Chris T (Thank you)

So on to the next...

I had this one in the wings it was my first choice as saw this one before the purple one but was distracted by looks :cool:
This is an MGF again and in original silver looks well kept too, however it has an auto gearbox which to be honest I would prefer But what is the opinion on the reliability like with MG auto boxes?
Personally I think Auto boxes are easier to fix than manuals and the toque converters last a lot longer that clutches.
Any comments welcome though.
 

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I’ve moved the thread to the F/TF section as you should get a wider input here.:)

The auto box on the F/TF does not use a torque converter as it is a CVT type of gearbox. They seem reliable providing the correct oil has been used and they have been generally looked after. However they do seem a bit of nightmare if they go wrong.
 

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Re: the Purple one - why not simply source a bonnet and boot lid in the same colour/code?

Both panels are simply bolt on for instant looks and success. Try a specialist spares supplier like MGFnTFbitz - they are experts and have good prices.

Use the condition of the parts fitted to drive down the asking price and you might get the car you want and have a few quid in your pocket after the new panels are fitted too!

Hope that helps?
 
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The peeling that you saw in that car is typical of Southern California cars - Sand, wind and sun damage (not that it has been to S.Cal...).

Paint is reparable and as for 2000 miles in 10 years, mine has done about that here (garaged in underground so no sun/temp extremes, no damp, cambelts, oil et al changed, etc. Runs as sweet as a nut, no rust). Personally I would have dug a bit further to see how it had actually been looked after.
 

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I've had a Steptronic and if the gearbox is working properly they're a delight to drive. Post's suggest they're not unreliable but if they do have issues they can be a pain to fix. I believe it's virtually the same gearbox used in the BMW Mini. The gearbox has three modes, D, sport and manual, if you just want a normal drive leave it in D, if you want to go a bit faster use Sport and if you really want some fun put it in manual, then just plant your right foot wait for it to get to 6000 rpm and hit the up button and repeat for each gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hot off the press!

I have just bought myself a 2002 MG tz 1.6.
I went to have a look at the purple car and it tuned out to be far worse that it looked but on the way we saw one in racing colours parked on a drive with "for sale" on it, we just gad to stop on the way back and have a look.
We talked about the car for hours and had a good old look over it, I knoe some will wag theres fingers but it used to be a racer. It has had the whole works done to it from top to bottom new rppf, new seat, new discs and calipers, stainless steel water pipes, upgraded head gaskest water pump cambelt and tesioner. It also hasafter market cetral locking and alarm.
The underside is solid as a rock and clean as a whistle. Best of all it goes I mean it REALLY goes!
Down side... Over size alloy wheels (18") but new tyers and I had a look and second hand they are selling for aroung £600 each. (so not so bad) And is has a vynil wrap but as far as I can tell the body inderneath is prety good.
Picking it up on Teusday as it will need taxing and no point in pay an extra month for 3 days but when I pick it up I will take some pictures post them. :)
 

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Nothing wrong with a car thats been ragged around a track, in fact its likely to be better mechanically maintained than a summer drive car ....waiting to see pics :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nothing wrong with a car thats been ragged around a track, in fact its likely to be better mechanically maintained than a summer drive car ....waiting to see pics :)
That is exactly what I thought.
 
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