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Sigh - I can't say that a lot of people are terifically helpful on this subject.
Instead of saying "find your manual" which I'm sure this person has already tried, you could just tell them!

I will go through the procedure as I had to use it recently, and had to spend a few hours looking for it as I have lost my manual.

After every time you turn the key, return to the "normal" position.

1. First, key in the lock
2. Turn the key 4 times to the lock postition to reset the system.
then, turn the key to unlock as many times as your first digit of the EKA code is, so if the first digit was "5", you'd turn the key 5 times to the unlock position
3. Next, turn the key back to the lock position as many times as the second digit
4. again, back to unlock as many times as the 3rd digit
5. back to lock as many times as the 4th digit
6. that's the code input. now turn it once to unlock, and you should be done!

So, in short (with n meaning number of the digit, L being lock and U being unlock)
LLLL, Un, Ln, Un, Ln, U

for example, if your code was 4567 you would do

LLLL UUUU LLLLL UUUUUU LLLLLLL U

Hope that helps!
 

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I can add important info here, if your car is made after 2003, this is for both cars with the old 2 button fobs and the latter 2/3 button fobs.

After entering the EKA wait 10 minutes, then you have 5 minutes to start the car after this period of time.

Once the EKA is entered on all models, the normal key can be used to unlock and lock the car and start up the engine without having to enter the EKA every time.

This function is cancelled once the fob is used again.
 

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so how do u change the batteries then. cuz i just brought a 220 gsi and when i got it the bloke said that the batteries had run out so i changed the batteries using the manual but still i cant get it working so i entered the EKA code and using it like that. do i have to restart the whole thing ie disconnect battery for 15 minutes or so for it to programme the fobs


cheers marc
 

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marcyb_SEi said:
so how do u change the batteries then. cuz i just brought a 220 gsi and when i got it the bloke said that the batteries had run out so i changed the batteries using the manual but still i cant get it working so i entered the EKA code and using it like that. do i have to restart the whole thing ie disconnect battery for 15 minutes or so for it to programme the fobs


cheers marc
Bloody hell, your very patient by entering the EKA all the time!

Not sure if it will work on your model but do this ti re-synch the plip and immobiliser... Take out battery, hold down one button (or both) to discharge static, put battery back in. Near the car, press unlock and it should work. However i went on different advice, i pressed both unlock and lock buttons in rapid succesion until i saw the red light of the immobilser blinking, Try both ways, worth a shot.
 

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dazultra2000 said:
Sigh - I can't say that a lot of people are terifically helpful on this subject.
Instead of saying "find your manual" which I'm sure this person has already tried, you could just tell them!

I will go through the procedure as I had to use it recently, and had to spend a few hours looking for it as I have lost my manual.

After every time you turn the key, return to the "normal" position.

1. First, key in the lock
2. Turn the key 4 times to the lock postition to reset the system.
then, turn the key to unlock as many times as your first digit of the EKA code is, so if the first digit was "5", you'd turn the key 5 times to the unlock position
3. Next, turn the key back to the lock position as many times as the second digit
4. again, back to unlock as many times as the 3rd digit
5. back to lock as many times as the 4th digit
6. that's the code input. now turn it once to unlock, and you should be done!

So, in short (with n meaning number of the digit, L being lock and U being unlock)
LLLL, Un, Ln, Un, Ln, U

for example, if your code was 4567 you would do

LLLL UUUU LLLLL UUUUUU LLLLLLL U

Hope that helps!

Not quite correct.

You should initially turn the key to lock and hold for 5 seconds, to let the 5AS unit know you are entering an EKA.

Then to unlock for the first digit,

Then lock for the second digit,

Unlock for the third

Lock for the 4th.

Unlock the car.

IE: EKA is 1234

L (hold for 5 s) U, LL, UUU, LLLL, U

see attached scan from handbook.
 

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Naj said:
Bloody hell, your very patient by entering the EKA all the time!

Not sure if it will work on your model but do this ti re-synch the plip and immobiliser... Take out battery, hold down one button (or both) to discharge static, put battery back in. Near the car, press unlock and it should work. However i went on different advice, i pressed both unlock and lock buttons in rapid succesion until i saw the red light of the immobilser blinking, Try both ways, worth a shot.
thats wot i thought id hav to do but u only do it once and it will work until u use the blip again. ive tried everything like that it looks like ill hav to take it to a dealers wich i think costs about 70 quid :banghead: .
 

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marcyb_SEi said:
so how do u change the batteries then. cuz i just brought a 220 gsi and when i got it the bloke said that the batteries had run out so i changed the batteries using the manual but still i cant get it working so i entered the EKA code and using it like that. do i have to restart the whole thing ie disconnect battery for 15 minutes or so for it to programme the fobs


cheers marc
No the bloke didnt say the batteries had run out, he said that the remotes both had new batteries in them. (I know it was me who said it!)
When I got the car one remote didnt work, the other had batteries that were almost flat so after fitting new batteries to both remotes I attempted to resync them with the car, one of them did resync the other however wouldnt have any of it.
Full instructions are in the handbook it says something like hold remote next to drivers door & press lock 4 times in quick succession after unlocking the door with the key to resync the remote with the car.
For some reason that second remote stopped working too after being left for a week, try unplugging the receiver ( its above the pedals held on with a 10mm plastic nut), leave it a couple of hours to discharge then plug it back in & try to resync it.
I told your mate who collected the car what had happened with the remotes.

I hope the GSi has lived up to your expectations, its a cracking little car that I will happily buy back if its not everything that I described it as
 

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yeah it is a great car. the battery was playin up a bit wen i got it bak so i bought a new one for a fiver at scrappie. and it starts first time everytime it drove the 200 mile journey home without a problem. but its stored at my dads work for the minute till i get extra money to run it. gonna be sortin the rust this week hopefully. he said something about why the fobs werent workin but hes very vague so i assumed thats wot you said
he said you had a race with his mates 1.6 metro and he just beat you.

cheers marc
 

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X70WER said:
I can add important info here, if your car is made after 2003, this is for both cars with the old 2 button fobs and the latter 2/3 button fobs.

After entering the EKA wait 10 minutes, then you have 5 minutes to start the car after this period of time.

Once the EKA is entered on all models, the normal key can be used to unlock and lock the car and start up the engine without having to enter the EKA every time.

This function is cancelled once the fob is used again.
By "after 2003" do you mean 2003 onwards or 2004 onwards?

I have an 03 Rover 25 and am having trouble entering my EKA... After I have entered the EKA and unlock the car, there is a single 'blip' of the alarm siren (the alarm on my 02 plate sounded the horn iirc?) and the immobiliser is still armed when I try to start the car...

I know the procedure from using it on my last Rover but I'm not having any luck at all with this one :( any ideas?
 

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imroberts said:
By "after 2003" do you mean 2003 onwards or 2004 onwards?

I have an 03 Rover 25 and am having trouble entering my EKA... After I have entered the EKA and unlock the car, there is a single 'blip' of the alarm siren (the alarm on my 02 plate sounded the horn iirc?) and the immobiliser is still armed when I try to start the car...

I know the procedure from using it on my last Rover but I'm not having any luck at all with this one :( any ideas?
My 1996 220SDI had the wrong EKA code entered in the Rover database. Basically, you needed to add one to the second and fourth digits of the EKA, so 1234 becomes 1335. I would have thought that the problem was sorted by 2003, but hope this helps someone anyway!
Tim
 

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My 1996 220SDI had the wrong EKA code entered in the Rover database. Basically, you needed to add one to the second and fourth digits of the EKA, so 1234 becomes 1335. I would have thought that the problem was sorted by 2003, but hope this helps someone anyway!
Tim
hi just tried this on my rover 214,really worked, thanx mate nice 1
 

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Glad it worked for you mate. This forum is now probably the best source of knowledge now many of the dealers haved disbanded!
 

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For entering accuracy, it's quite useul to nudge the key ever so slightly past the centre mark, to ensure that the lock has registered a zero point. Entering the EKA code on the other halfs bubble the first time blew the horn. Same code, with a little nudge past centre and it worked a treat.

The EKA also disarms the immobiliser UNTIL the next time the car is locked with the fob - the light never comes back until you use the fob. That's true for the bubbles.
 
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