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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This was originally posted on RoverTech.net, but as that website has gone am posting here for (hopefully) posterity:


(hope the photo links work)




You will need:

Patience – Preferably of the saintly variety, failing that just in bucket loads

Time

Door lights (probably from a Honda Accord, Prelude also has them (but only two))

Cabling, got mine by pulling out the loom from the donor Accord for the lights in the scrappies (door & body looms by the sills)

Screw drivers, pliers, cable cutter, loom tape (I used insulating tape), soldering iron/solder (I’m crap with this so used bullet connectors)




Start by removing your door cards. If unsure how to do this, then see this thread [http://www.rovertech.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=127816], rears come off in pretty much the same way. I worked it a door at a time as was my daily driver.

I was aiming for an OE look on the loom, so removed the main section of the loom from each door.

Driver’s side rear:




Passenger side rear:




Unplug the door loom from body loom multi-connector on the leading edge of the door. Then remove the plastic ring from the door connector by inserting a screwdriver to release the clips and pull the ring off:










The front and rear doors have different sized clips. If you’re stripping a donor car and don’t knacker them in the process handy to keep these in case of any mis-haps when doing this on your own car.

Next undo the various connectors in the door and thread the door loom out through the plug hole in the door leading edge (the clips are ridged and cannot be pulled back into the door). Now you can add in the wires for your door light.

After much cross referencing between Rover and Accord plugs worked out that warning light wires (in the driver’s door plug) go in the bottom half of the clip the negative above the very bottom orange wire and positive in the next one to the left. The wire colours for the driver’s door warning light are white w blue strip (+ve) and green w red stripe (-ve). As I later discovered these colours are carried on into the loom in the car.










Side-by-side comparison of the 600 and Accord plugs for the rear door, 600 on right, Accord on left. Note the Accord has more wires/pins, seemingly because all of the windows on the Accord had “auto” down, whereas the 600 only has this function on the driver’s door.




I stripped these from donor loom, so pretty confident they were correct length.




I carefully pushed the metal connectors back out of the main Accord plug










Then selected the same (empty) slots on the 600’s plug. Use long-nose pliers to push the metal connector “home”, you’ll feel it click into place.




Rather than open up the 600’s existing loom I just taped the new cabling to the outside of the loom with electrical insulating tape.

Front door loom:







Rear door loom:







Feed your adapted loom back into the door, clip into place, et voila, looking pretty OEM:

Driver’s door:




Passenger side front door:




Passenger side rear door:




The front door card for 600 has blanking plates for the lights on the pocket; unclip/unscrew these and fit the lights.




Repeat for the passenger side front door. The rear door cards do not have blanking plates, but do have a dotted outline on the rear of the door card where the lights go:




Out with a sharp knife and “join the dots”:




Once cut out, fit your light:










Now refit all door cards, remembering to connect all connectors.

Driver’s door




Passenger side front door:




Driver’s side rear door:




Passenger side rear door:




All looking suitably OEM.


Now the real fun begins, wiring up the body loom so they work. As you’ve no doubt gathered I’m trying for “as close to OEM” as possible in the fitment. To make them door specific you’ll need to tap into the negative cable from the respective door open switch on the B pillar (front doors) and C pillar (rear doors). This means gaining workable access to the body to door leading edge rubber boots to run the cabling through. Working in the B pillar area not particularly difficult in this regard, but the A pillar/leading edge of front doors means getting the wings off.

So ……………..

Undo these screws:




Remove these clips:




Unbolt wing from these hangers:







And you’ll think you’ve done it, but oh no, not that easy. There are fixings at the bottom of the wing hidden behind the sill covers. Get under the car and remove the plastic push fit "locking pin" type things along underside of sill trim. They have a philips style cut out for screwdriver to wind them back. There's about 8 per sill trim. Some come out fine, others got ripped to shreds in process and needed replacing. This is a pain as a 2 minute job ends up taking 30 mins. Then knock the sill trim towards front wheel. It's meant to slide forwards on the plastic locating lugs. Didn’t have any joy with that, but managed to move it enough to access these TWO bolts at the bottom of the wing:




Et voila:




Repeat for passenger side. Now onto the wiring itself.

Again, removed the respective wires/connectors from the Accord body loom plug and fitted to the mirrored points in the 600’s plug from the body loom. Unfortunately didn't have a decent length of green with red stripe to run into the cabin, so pulled some red with green stripe from the Accord loom I acquired to use as the negative. The cables were passed through the big door loom grommet on the inner wing.

Driver side







Passenger side
















You’ll notice in that last photo that there’s additional cabling running up to the engine bay:




Thought whilst I had the car in so many pieces I’d add a positive and negative cable in case I ever get around to fitting heated washer jets.

Then into the passenger compartment just above the fusebox in the driver's footwell. Similar on the passenger side (but no fusebox to worry about).




And you’ve now got cable inside the car in the footwell




Remove all the interior plastic trim from the front footwell to the back of the passenger cabin. You’ll need to unscrew the plates on the foot guards across the doors, the plastic trim then unclips by pulling upwards. You’ll now be able to remove the B pillar trim: you’ll need to unbolt the seat belt anchor bolt (NOT the reel) to get the trim off. I couldn’t get the C pillar trim completely unclipped (seems you have to remove the rear seats to do so), but was able to unclip enough to gain access to the door open switch cabling.

Run the front door cables from behind the fusebox along the 600s body loom (again I taped it at intervals along this loom) to the B pillar. Identify the front door open switch wiring in the B pillar. There are now several options on how to proceed. I cut the door switch negative cable, fitted bullet connectors (I’m crap with soldering, usually meting the wires I’m trying to join together, but none of the solder). Plugged connectors together and wound with insulting tape.

What I should have done was make better use of this orange multi connector that you’ll find in the vicinity of the B pillar.

Driver side







Passenger side







There are a number of shared connections in this (think 1 set of 4 and 2 sets of 3). On the driver’s side there are no spare connectors. I didn’t realise at the time, but the wire connector pins can be purchased (should have paid more attention when reading NullByte’s West to East epic thread). If I’d known this I would have made up a short permanent live wire (thick white w blue stripe) and piggy backed a new connector on to the 600s. Would then have also done like wise for the negative.

The equivalent plug on the passenger side has “spare capacity” and having realised the error of my ways on the drivers side I did make use of this multiplug on the passenger side.

Anyway, I digress. Having “coupled” the negatives together you need to do something similar with the positive cable, ensuring you tap into a permanently live positive cable (otherwise the lights will only work when the ignition is on). Again I did this with use of bullet connectors. Note – Also easiest to also wire in the positive cable for the rear door at the same time into the same connection.

Your work in the B pillar area is not yet done, as you now need to provide a positive and negative feed for the rear door. Again, I used the wires from the Accord’s loom, pushed the respective pins out of the body plug and fitted them into the 600’s [remembering the pin locations in the door loom (honest I did and didn’t have to take it apart to correct it, at all, ever)]

Driver’s side







Now feed the wires into the flexible tube between rear door leading edge and B pillar and into the car

Driver’s side




Passenger side




Refit the flexible tube




And tidy up the B pillar wiring in the car

Driver’s side




Passenger side




Now to connect these new wires into your existing loom. Hopefully you took note early and left your positive connection for the front door available to take the positive cable from the rear door.

The negative cable you need to tap into the rear door open switch. On the driver’s side I ran the cable back towards the C pillar.




And spliced it into the door open switch negative cable




Didn’t do the same on the passenger side, I made use of that orange multi-plug I mentioned earlier.


Now tuck your carpets back in, refit all the trim, connect up your battery and you should get from this:




To this:




and




to




What did I learn from doing this:

a) It’s a PITA

b) If scavenging the loom from a donor car try and take all of the loom with all the connectors (especially if soldering isn’t a strong point). Would have saved me loads of time instead of fitting connectors on cable with not a lot of “give” in it.
 

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Hi Pinkie15,

Thanks for sharing this information. I have always wanted to replace those blanking plates with something but has so far struggled to find suitable lamps. I have considered using some high-intensity red LEDs but that will definitely not look as factory original as the Accord/Prelude solution.
So now I will go Honda hunting :smile:

Regards,
Per
 
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