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rover_75
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everybody after months of looking round I finally got a mg tf always wanted one , work needs doing to it . For starters it’s been stood two years but bodywork looks ok slight rust round the aches . Head gasket has blown . So today started on the brakes the guy I bought it off just had the brakes and discs done by a high street well know company needless to say they sheared 3 out the 4 bolts holding the discs to the hubs . Yet to look at the back ones . So I was thinking of fitting a elastromer
Gasket to the head I have one spare . Getting new head bolts no idea what gasket was fitted before not got that far the guy I bought it off said the guy before him had one fitted and I see traces on sealant below the rocker cover . Am I right in thinking a upgraded rail will of been fitted if they have used a mls gasket? . What else should I fit ? I thought a cambelt kit ? Change the sparks , air filter , fuel filter too . Any help would be appreciated
 

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Disc screws always do that- drill out and fit s/s ones, put a bit of copper slip in them before fitting. Pays dividends. Clean back of discs and smear same.
Head gasket, cam belt and water pump are not for the faint hatred to attempt. At least if you do, you have the smaller non VV engine to work with.
Personally, I’d leave the HG and do the cam belt and water pump.
Most garages bodgethe k series heads and don’t replace what river recommended. That my experience.
I’d yoy really want to pull the head- seek out MG ROVERSOLUTIOBS. . He will do the job properly.
 

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mg_tf
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Hello,
Your post seems to be jumping from brakes to head gaskets, but suggests you are intending to start to rectify brake issues on this ‘head gasket blown’ car.
If the car has a known and confirmed HG issue, then surely it would be unwise to spend money on anything other than the engine, until you have reliably solved that engine issue, to ensure the car is worth spending on.
Asking for advice re. whether to change the cambelt etc. at the same time, would point to a degree of inexperience, and you have to ask yourself if you are equipped with the full knowledge and experience to carry out this engine work. If not with confidence, then I would go along with PatM’s suggested route.
The gasket which will be necessary will be known on removing the head and assessing the liner heights.
Kind regards,
Austin.
 

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We are all different but...
Most important to make the car reliable and roadworthy, if not.
You can spend a fortune misguidedly on any old car and you will never get it back. Just drive it, log the faults and enjoy it.
 

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I would only add the importance of having the right tools as well. The right tools make the difference between success and a right royal f.up.
 

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I would only add the importance of having the right tools as well. The right tools make the difference between success and a right royal f.up.
Spoken like a Gentleman!
Especially vvc cams!

Minimum prerequisites- level ground and concrete. 2 tonne Jack (and not one from Lidl ) and a decent pair of axel-stands.
 

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rover_75
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thank you guys for your advice . Done a few head gaskets on the 1.8 k series engine a mls and the elastromer type both lasted well . And changed several cambelts on this too . The tf is new to me a few bits different the the 75 I normally work on
Disc screws always do that- drill out and fit s/s ones, put a bit of copper slip in them before fitting. Pays dividends. Clean back of discs and smear same.
Head gasket, cam belt and water pump are not for the faint hatred to attempt. At least if you do, you have the smaller non VV engine to work with.
Personally, I’d leave the HG and do the cam belt and water pump.
Most garages bodgethe k series heads and don’t replace what river recommended. That my experience.
I’d yoy really want to pull the head- seek out MG ROVERSOLUTIOBS. . He will do the job properly.
cheers Patm
Done a few head gaskets so confident there . Got the discs fitted used some stainless steel screws with copper slip on them . Do you remove the jiggle valve ball bearing heard some ppl do to avoid a hotspot in that corner ?
 

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rover_75
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32 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Hello,
Your post seems to be jumping from brakes to head gaskets, but suggests you are intending to start to rectify brake issues on this ‘head gasket blown’ car.
If the car has a known and confirmed HG issue, then surely it would be unwise to spend money on anything other than the engine, until you have reliably solved that engine issue, to ensure the car is worth spending on.
Asking for advice re. whether to change the cambelt etc. at the same time, would point to a degree of inexperience, and you have to ask yourself if you are equipped with the full knowledge and experience to carry out this engine work. If not with confidence, then I would go along with PatM’s suggested route.
The gasket which will be necessary will be known on removing the head and assessing the liner heights.
Kind regards,
Austin.
Hi Austin
Cheers thanks for the advice just , done a few head gaskets on a rover 75 still have it approaching 200 000 mile . Sorry to dash from brakes to main engine , don’t know much about this cars past . Ordered the cambelt might as well change that while I’m down there . Guess I should be asking which cambelt is best gates or dayco. ? Do you take out the jiggle valve in the head
I did on the last k series I did ?
 

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rover_75
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Discussion Starter #9
I would only add the importance of having the right tools as well. The right tools make the difference between success and a right royal f.up.
you are not wrong there , between me and my brother in law we have a fair few tools and a car ramp . Yet still always seems to be a tool I need
 

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rover_75
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Discussion Starter #10
Hi Austin
Cheers thanks for the advice just , done a few head gaskets on a rover 75 still have it approaching 200 000 mile . Sorry to dash from brakes to main engine , don’t know much about this cars past . Ordered the cambelt might as well change that while I’m down there . Guess I should be asking which cambelt is best gates or dayco. ? Do you take out the jiggle valve in the head
I did on the last k series I did ?
Ps
The brakes just need a look at new discs and pads were fitted by the previous owner but then he fell ill so it stood for two years , I just looked at them freed them off and fitted the discs to the hubs done the front set today as well as sand blasted the rust from underneath . The back set look interesting I see the handbrake uses the brake discs not used to this type ( do they self adjust ?) any help would be grateful
 

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mg_tf
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Cambelt? - Gates. Also change the alternator belt.
Water pump? I would stick with quality brands only for this critical application.
 
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