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mg_tf
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Well, as we say, it’s your call, and if you want to remove the gearbox before ensuring the clutch plate isn’t simply stuck to the flywheel/pressure plate, then I guess it’s out with the gearbox!
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I tried the freein procedure
It did something,not much, now I can atleast feel the throwout bearing moving and pressing against the flywheel.
But still, the car wont budge.
 

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rover_75
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I tried the freein procedure
It did something,not much, now I can atleast feel the throwout bearing moving and pressing against the flywheel.
But still, the car wont budge.
Patience is the key thing, just keep repeating the procedure. There is a drastic measure, but you need loads of space and nerve. I’ve used this method before see step 7



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mg_tf
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The more drastic procedure you refer to Nigel is the one I was thinking about, but it has to be read, understood, and all the safety implications satisfied, so I’m simply referring to it as useful reading!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
i think i freed the clutch, I hear a pop, the release arm is a bijt harder to move, the clutch pedal is hard as heck now and If I put the car in any gear with the clutch presaed and try to start the car it wont move forward, but if I release the clutch it will move, the gears are going in smooth, I just need to put petrol in it and try it, anyways I wont be able to drive it for more then 30 sec because I took the radiator hoses out
 

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rover_75
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i think i freed the clutch, I hear a pop, the release arm is a bijt harder to move, the clutch pedal is hard as heck now and If I put the car in any gear with the clutch presaed and try to start the car it wont move forward, but if I release the clutch it will move, the gears are going in smooth, I just need to put petrol in it and try it, anyways I wont be able to drive it for more then 30 sec because I took the radiator hoses out
Patience is a great virtue lol. Don’t run car until coolant system is topped back up. There are 3 bleed points


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Discussion Starter #30
I freed the clutch, the car is a wonder! Now I have problems with one of the shifter cables. I believe its the called the wheelhouse in english. I ll post some pics after, the car was the equivalent of less then 200 british pounds
 

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mg_tf
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Had something similar happen to my TF this week. It's been up on stands after a summer of (occasional) working on various corrosion problems and a new nose/bumper led to it not being put on the road this year. I got in the car and depressed the clutch last week just to see how things were and of course the clutch went down to the floor and didn't come back up again. It does that when not used regularly and I've come across that before. I pulled the clutch up by hand and depressed it again, and tried to select a gear. The gears could not be selected - they would not enter the appropriate 'gates'. I kept depressing and lifting the clutch, stirring the gearstick etc and finally I managed to start selecting gears via the gearstick but - the rear wheels would not spin. I know the differential will spin only one wheel, the one with the least resistance, if both rear wheels are in the air so I checked both - nothing*.

It took yet more stirring of the gearstick and pumping of the clutch until finally I managed to not only select a gear but also get that gear through to the rear wheels.

The lesson is, standing for ages does a car no good.

*Actually, there was a sort of 'drag' which occasionally when I was first trying would rotate a rear wheel and it looked like I was succesfully in gear - but putting my foot on the rotating tyre would easily stop it rotating. Presumably the clutch was not engaging/disengaging completely, stuck on the splined clutch shaft?
 
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