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Discussion starter · #21 ·
That's what I was thinking - even down to the turkey baister!!!
You don't have a turkey baster?

That was part of the wifes tool kit until I knicked it. And before anyone accuses me of being sexist, it wasn't a kitchen tool, she bought it for catching baby fish in her fishtank before they get eaten. Now, I just guess they get eaten :dunno:

Specialist tools are collected along the way. I tend to research the job I am going to do and buy the tools. The windback tool was recommended on here by ChrisT I think. Bought it on e-bay.
 
LOL being 25 I've only had my house for 2 years so not got round to acquiring one yet.... Also there's the fact I'm vegetarian!! :rotflmao:

I do dream about doing a job one day though when I have all the tools BEFORE I start!! Thanks again though!
 
Another great tuition guide, I am actually starting to feel confident about tackling some of these jobs myself as it always helps me to visualise the process before hand, thanks for taking the time to do this.

On a different note where did you purchase the replacement discs and pads?

Thanks

David
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
LOL being 25 I've only had my house for 2 years so not got round to acquiring one yet.... Also there's the fact I'm vegetarian!! :rotflmao:

I do dream about doing a job one day though when I have all the tools BEFORE I start!! Thanks again though!
I think you can get a nut cutlet baster. Funnily enough it looks exactly the same as a turkey baster :)

Another great tuition guide, I am actually starting to feel confident about tackling some of these jobs myself as it always helps me to visualise the process before hand, thanks for taking the time to do this.

On a different note where did you purchase the replacement discs and pads?

Thanks

David
Glad to be of assistance. The front discs (AP discs) I bid for on e-bay and got for around £70-£80 and the pads from a local factors at £15 +vat.

The rears I bought from an e-bay shop at £37 for the discs and pads. Cheap as chips.

Thats around the £130 mark for new discs and pads all round. You've got to be happy with that, and that's for a TF 160. You could probably do a 135 for around the £80 mark.
 
This is an amazing thread, many thanks CJJ. I will be doing this job over the next few days and I feel much more confident now having read your How-To-Do.

It's learning things like this which save pennies and pounds. At least now I don't have to pay someone else to do a fairly simple job, plus I get to know the car better and source my own parts.

Thanks for putting the time in mate.
 
Finally got round to doing my rear discs and pads tonight, great to view the guide again prior to doing the work.

Apart from one caliper bolt having been previously rounded (former owner or garage!) it was very straightforward. I have nice new discs to match my front ones now.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
I would not advise putting copper slip between the hub and disc - this surface needs to be 100% clean and true.
I agree with you, to a point. If you are not a clean worker you can end up with flakes of rust etc sticking to the grease and the disc won't sit true. It can also cause hydraulic action and in some cases cause the wheel nuts not to tighten to the correct torque. You should also not paint them as when heated the paint will soften and cause the wheel nuts to loosen.

I did say in the post that not everyone likes to apply copper crest in this area, but a small amount spread very thinly shouldn't be a problem. There are potential problems, but compared to stressing your suspension and wheel bearings with a sledge hammer (mine had become one with the hubs) when you try to remove the discs, I will go for the copper slip every time.
 
Your reply bumped this into my vision this morning. I just had my rear brake discs and pads changed and brake fluid changed at the same time by Brown and Gammons. It's nice to understand more about what they had to do in the time they had available.

Thanks CJJ.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
No probs. It took me most of the afternoon to do this, but obviously they have better tools and are more experienced. Although I don't like garages I have to sympathise with them when people take there car in for all round brakes and then complain about the price when they have spent many hours and parts making their car safe again.
 
Sorry CJJ, missed this one last time round. Fantastic write up. I have the pics somewhere of my own write up, but it is nowhere as good as yours so I wont bother.

Respect!!:broon:

So are these "one person" bleed kits easy enough to sue and cheap enough. My fluid needs changed very quickly but I have no friends to help pump the pedal :(
 
No probs. It took me most of the afternoon to do this, but obviously they have better tools and are more experienced. Although I don't like garages I have to sympathise with them when people take there car in for all round brakes and then complain about the price when they have spent many hours and parts making their car safe again.

I disagree, bet ya ten bob ninety percent of garages just bang the pads and disks in and dont bother doing the fluid.

P.s nice write up.

What did you do about the bolt, / thingy that sheared?

I drilled and re tapped mine..
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Broon, the one man bleed kit is just a rubber tube with a slit at the bottom. This acts as a none return valve. I also stick it in a jar full of fluid so no air can feed back. Don't loosen your nipples too much as this can be a source of air as well.

Wildmurphy. The hubs are still screwless. the main thing I have done is win 2 brand new hubs of e-bay, complete with screws, so I will fit these and probably new bearings while I am in there.
 
Thanks for this guide. Made changing the rear discs and pads a doddle. Only issue I had was that under the steel inserts that the pads sit on had corroded and bubbled slightly.

This was stopping the pad moving freely (couldn't even get the new pad in) so had to have a go at it with a file to clean it up. Hopefully that was what was causing the car to pull to the left under braking...

Oh and instead of a caliper wind tool I just used an adjustable spanner with one end in the groove. Worked a treat.

Now have to go out and test it!
 
great how-to! i'm planning and doing this soon and this will be a tool in itself to help me. may i ask, with the brake-fluid change, how much fluid does the complete system hold? and is it necessary to have the wheel removed to access the nipple and bleed? i ask because, i'm trying to visualise it, ie did you take all the wheels off first and then bleed them one after the other in one go, or just remove each wheel as necessary? i intend to replace the discs and pads all round, and suppose i ought to replace the brake fluid too as it has just hit 30k. and finally, are the red ap callipers on the fronts of the tf160 the same general procedure to remove?

it's so good to have this pool of knowledge to dip into. thanks in advance.
 
Seeing as this thread has been resurrected I can sound off lol.

Fantastic guide as usual but it took me 4 hours tonight to get a f****ing locking b**tard wheel nut off so I could do the drivers side rear plus umpteen drill bits and a stud remover.

I f*****ing hate OEM locking wheel nuts. Got McGard's for both cars now but what a ***** to get off.

Suprisingly, I feel better now for that rant apart from the fact that one drill bit snapped and the drill plus the broken bit decided to travel across the face of the alloy.

Oh well, ebay here I come


BTW, f*****ing = flipping:lol:
 
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