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Discussion Starter #1
basic guide.
probably been asked lots of times

on a little budget, what can be done to an MG ZR 2.0TD to give it abit of punch
 

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dont know what you call a"little" budget but i would start out with sdi injectors set boost to 19psi and if your budget has any money left over then cone filter. and smash out the inside of your cat.
 

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SDI injectors are first thing i'd do. Then fit a boost gauge and increase the boost. then smash the cat out. then a remap.

I don't think 140bhp+ is capable on standard injector remaps...is it?
 

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Mid 130'sbhp is about the max, but realistically 130bhp is pretty much easily achievable with a re-map.

Cheers
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks guys, im in doncaster, i know of a place that does remaps.
would a cone filter not sap power on one of these?
would imagine the panel filter has a fairly large s/a compared the the cone

and just talking a couple 100 really, how much will different injectors be?
other one is can you get better mpg out of them with a remap
 

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just fitting the injectors will make a HUGE difference about 20-30bhp in most cases.

if you have a remap done AFTER you fitted the sdi injectors (and a few other choise mods) then you will only notice a couple of mpg lower than standard.

if i were you and had 300notes to spend i would get
sdi injectors £50-£100 depending on age/condition
boost guage £10-£50 depending on brand/quality
large cone filter £15-£100 depending on brand/quality

after fitting the sdi injectors i would fit the cone filter and boost guage and turn the boost up to 19psi max (it costs nothing to increase the boost)
then take your cat off and smash out the insides of it then refit it
check your max boost is still at 19-20psi

job done and you will be looking at about 130-140bhp....... then if you want to take things further full exhaust system (with de-cat or sports cat) and then finaly a remap which should take you to 150-160bhp and so much torque you wont be able to stop smiling

i wouldnt worry to much about fitting a cold air feed to the cone filter, heat soak from an open cone filter on a turbo car isnt as much of a problem as on non turbo cars.

depending on how much you get the above bits for (if you shop about you can easily do it for £150)
and save the rest of the budget for either an exhaust system or a remap
but the remap needs to be the LAST thing you do with regards to engine tuning otherwise you will end up doing the remap again after you have done more engine mods in order to make the most of the new mods you added.
think of the remap as making the most of the mods you have done rather than a first step
 

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I would, why spend all that time and effort to start off with a warm air feed that could be so much cooler with just a bit of thought on positioning or enclosing? Maybe isn't as much of a problem but it is a quick gain area to intercool air that is as cold as possible.
i wouldnt worry to much about fitting a cold air feed to the cone filter, heat soak from an open cone filter on a turbo car isnt as much of a problem as on non turbo cars.
 

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this i a long running argument that i have been having with Matt... it 'does' make a difference but not as massive a difference as it does on nasp.

the colder air you start with the colder it can be when it comes out the intercooler based on the efficiency of the intercooler itself.

the challenge you have is that if you fit it too low (inner wing like the 180 boys) you seriously run the risk of puddles - more so because the turbo causea a lot more sucking than the nasp car...

On my 'to do' list is to eventually put the battery in the boot and build a decent enclosure up front in the space being fed by the missing OE intercooler....

for a reduction in smoke go for an open cone regardless i say, but there is very little actualy power difference between a decent panel filter and an open cone....

the noise however is another factor :)
 

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this i a long running argument that i have been having with Matt... it 'does' make a difference but not as massive a difference as it does on nasp.

the colder air you start with the colder it can be when it comes out the intercooler based on the efficiency of the intercooler itself.

the challenge you have is that if you fit it too low (inner wing like the 180 boys) you seriously run the risk of puddles - more so because the turbo causea a lot more sucking than the nasp car...

On my 'to do' list is to eventually put the battery in the boot and build a decent enclosure up front in the space being fed by the missing OE intercooler....

for a reduction in smoke go for an open cone regardless i say, but there is very little actualy power difference between a decent panel filter and an open cone....

the noise however is another factor :)
I have been thinking about getting (for quite a while now!!) the green cotton K3.80 which is pretty big (300mm high :D) and a cold air feed pipe, something like this - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350369342804&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I would connect the pipe to the MAF and route the pipe lower down (underneath the battery maybe??!) and connect the filter to the end (i need so see if it would fit yet!!).

Thoughts on this?? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
would probably go for the panel filter over the cone as diesel induction noise is eurghhh
lol

il look out for some of these injectors on ebay, a cheap boost gauge and then hollow out the cat and get it remapped
 

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mg_zs
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mgzs td

hi i was this thread about tuning zr td and someone said about adjusting the boost how is this done and do you need computer thanks
 

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A cheap OBD bluetooth reader with the "Torque" android app can be used to measure boost aswell (possibly other OBD readers options aswell), can be quite handy to have around afterwards, has lots of fun dials and graphs you can play with, if you dont want to install a boost gauge :)


Octoman, Have a look at this video to play with the boost: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YKNwm_r6Gw
Actuator is down to the back of the engine and you will need some way of measuring the boost, so a boost gauge or OBD reader, but i think (Please correct me if i'm wrong diesel gurus) turning it up has little effect without the extra fuelling supplied by SDi injectors :)
 

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That's correct, you might actually want to hold off adjusting the boost until the fuels been added as it can actually increase it (so you might find yourself having to adjust the boost again afterwards otherwise).

There's two primary ways to increase fuelling on this variant of the L-series, remap or bigger injectors (research sdi injector upgrade), or for the biggest upgrade - both.

Coming back to boost, you want to aim for about 19psi. 20 you'll get away with, people have suggested more but it's high risk for low/no gains.

I recommend to stick to known guidelines.
 

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just fitting the injectors will make a HUGE difference about 20-30bhp in most cases.

if you have a remap done AFTER you fitted the sdi injectors (and a few other choise mods) then you will only notice a couple of mpg lower than standard.

if i were you and had 300notes to spend i would get
sdi injectors £50-£100 depending on age/condition
boost guage £10-£50 depending on brand/quality
large cone filter £15-£100 depending on brand/quality

after fitting the sdi injectors i would fit the cone filter and boost guage and turn the boost up to 19psi max (it costs nothing to increase the boost)
then take your cat off and smash out the insides of it then refit it
check your max boost is still at 19-20psi

job done and you will be looking at about 130-140bhp....... then if you want to take things further full exhaust system (with de-cat or sports cat) and then finaly a remap which should take you to 150-160bhp and so much torque you wont be able to stop smiling

i wouldnt worry to much about fitting a cold air feed to the cone filter, heat soak from an open cone filter on a turbo car isnt as much of a problem as on non turbo cars.

depending on how much you get the above bits for (if you shop about you can easily do it for £150)
and save the rest of the budget for either an exhaust system or a remap
but the remap needs to be the LAST thing you do with regards to engine tuning otherwise you will end up doing the remap again after you have done more engine mods in order to make the most of the new mods you added.
think of the remap as making the most of the mods you have done rather than a first step
 

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I had my mgzr 2.0td 197bhp and I just had sdi Injectors, waste gate adjusted on the turbo, full straight pipe and a cone filter. Then I went a done a turbo conversion and put a 2.9 kia sedona turbo on it. It was ballbearing spooled and water cooled then put freelander Injector nozzles on the sdi Injectors and another map but never got her on the dyno but I raced a 2012 fr Leon 170bhp mapped and pulled about 2-3 car lengths on it so I'd say she was sitting around 240-250bhp
 
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