How To Reset the Radio Module in a HiLine Nav Setup
This reset procedure for the high line ICE came from the ICE/Electrical department of MG Rover Product Development.
If the radio in this vehicle sticks on one station and you are unable to select anything other than tape or CD please carry out the following procedure to reset the unit.
1. Switch off unit using main on/off button (one with the little orange triangle on the bottom right of the unit)
2. Switch on the unit using the same button
3. Within 8 seconds press and hold the TP button, on the unit, until the radio station read out re-appears and music etc can be heard
4. Switch off the unit again
5. Switch the unit back on and you can then select all radio bands along with CD, tape and tuner.
How to replace the alternator on a Diesel engined Rover 75 or MG ZT, courtesy of riji64
For anyone changing a Rover 75 alternator on a diesel…
I’ve posted this a few times. I hope it helps someone.
Rover 75. 2002 CDT. 1hour off,1 hour for new one on.
Original alternator had done 185,000 miles.
Not bad I thought. Replaced with another Valeo
Handy non tool items.
LED headtorch. Energizer make a small, neat, efficient one for about a tenner. Argos etc. Don’t bother with bulky ones that use ordinary bulbs.
A pair of gardening/rigger gloves. I try and always wear these when heaving on spanners,etc. Saves a lot of skin.
I also had the luxury of a pit, with the drivers side front wheel close to the edge.
The following is from memory after the refit so forgive any size mistakes etc.
One of those rare jobs that I was dreading, (after reading threads etc.) but found to be fairly straight forward and easy. What is this radiator out, locking plate off business,?? Didn’t need to touch it. The whole job (except disconnecting the battery) could be done easily from underneath!
Under sump shield off. Mine lives off. Too much hassle when oil changing.
May cut a hole in it to access the drain plug, if I refit it!
Slacken AC belt. 10mm x2 (22mm socket to adjust on refit)
Loosen black steel coolant pipe. 3x 8mm bolts.1 on engine front, two on side. There is enough slack in the hoses to place it just under the sump.
I did not need to remove the plastic wheel guard as it had enough flex to slide my hand easily inside.
Loosen AC unit. 3x 10mm bolts. Note the forward bolt is restricted. Needs to be in it’s place when refitting unit.
Remove AC bracket. 3x 10mm bolts.
Whilst doing this I was moving the AC unit (which remains plumbed in) from left to right, which you will need to do throughout to move it out of the way.
Slacken alternator belt. The sprung tensioner has a 24mm nut. My 24mm ring spanner just fitted into position. Just take the tension and slip the belt off one of the pulleys. Have a look how it goes on. Draw a diagram if unsure. I was working without a manual.
Unclip wires from the alternator. 13mm nut on one and ‘press in’ the retaining wire clip when pulling the plug off. May be easier to access, when the alternator is free.
13mm x2 bolts on the pully side of the alternator. 10mm bolt on the other side.
The top 13mm bolt can be fiddly and also needs to be in place when refitting.
Limited room for a standard socket. I used a small socket set and a ring spanner.
The alternator was tight at the bottom, but levered out easily.
I found the alternator lowered out easily from the engine bay.
In fact I was surprised how easy and quick it all was, especially after reading some reports of moving radiators, etc.
You may want to remove the air intake for access from the top or you may access all wires etc. from underneath. Do as you find easiest.
Refit was the reverse……