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mgf
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Discussion Starter #1
Hiya All,

I've been trying to replace the rear brake lines and as they were all corroded at the t-piece! Anyway I'm now in a position where I managed to get the t-piece from the car unfortunately the t-piece came off with the stud that was holding it to the bodywork!!! Obviously this is is going to be an issue trying to replace it, without removing the tank etc, and I was just wondering if anyone as experienced something similar?

Have you managed to fix it or just relocated the t-piece?

Regards

MAtt
 

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mg_tf
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607 Posts

Nocturneblue on this forum described getting to the back of the T-piece through the side air scoop. If it's too late and you've already muntered it, it seems you can relocate the T-piece higher in the engine bay. Keeps t further away from road crud and reues risk of drilling the tank. More tips here.

 

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mgf
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks skellum. I did the exact same thing to try and get my brake lines off but even with the correct brake line tool and then cutting and using a socket I could not get the connections to budge!

I'll have to try and find a place to relocate it to. Or I could see if I can access it like you said through the side vent and maybe knock up some kind of plate to fix it to.
 

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mg_tf
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Sorry Nobby, I thought someone else would have been in by now.
When I did my brake pipes in the summer I did manage to undo the unions on the Tpiece; 2 days of plusgas, cut off the pipes, then hammered a socket over the union. When I applied a bit of grunt the T-piece wanted to twist off the bulkhead. I cut some wooden wedges and braced the t-piece against the subframe. Access was awful, and when the union 'let go' it was very sudden. I thought I'd broken it. Ressembled using stainless unions so hopefully will be easier if here is a 'next time'.
Have you pulled the t-pice off its mount?
You might consider cutting off the brake pipe coming from the front of the car and adding a new union where the current T-piece is- it means you'd have to flare the pipe in situ (I think a pig to do, sorry).


The original pipes on the car are STEEL. They will be harder to work with than the CuNifer or Copper you'll use to make your new pipes. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=135&t=1038675

Then, make a new brake pipe from your new union long enough to position new t-piece higher in the engine bay.
Lastly, make new pipes for near-side and off-side routed from new t-piece.
 

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mgf
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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry Nobby, I thought someone else would have been in by now.
When I did my brake pipes in the summer I did manage to undo the unions on the Tpiece; 2 days of plusgas, cut off the pipes, then hammered a socket over the union. When I applied a bit of grunt the T-piece wanted to twist off the bulkhead. I cut some wooden wedges and braced the t-piece against the subframe. Access was awful, and when the union 'let go' it was very sudden. I thought I'd broken it. Ressembled using stainless unions so hopefully will be easier if here is a 'next time'.
Have you pulled the t-pice off its mount?
You might consider cutting off the brake pipe coming from the front of the car and adding a new union where the current T-piece is- it means you'd have to flare the pipe in situ (I think a pig to do, sorry).


The original pipes on the car are STEEL. They will be harder to work with than the CuNifer or Copper you'll use to make your new pipes. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=135&t=1038675

Then, make a new brake pipe from your new union long enough to position new t-piece higher in the engine bay.
Lastly, make new pipes for near-side and off-side routed from new t-piece.
Thank you for replying Skellum. I have unfortunately managed to pull the t-piece off from the body work, but only had to cut off both rear brake pipes as the one from the font was not a problem. I tried the socket method with bracing the t-piece to no avail they were just stuck fast!
 
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