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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #24
SO guys - I have been searching on and off online for a clutch kit (preferably LUK - but they are all sold out). I have noted that there is a 'ZF' clutch that seems triple the price of a 'transmech' (never heard of them lol, or there is an 'AP' that comes out the most expensive.

I CAN however, get an 'original Rover/MG' part from a supplier. They assure me it is an original, but my question is, does anyone actually know who the manufacturer of the original parts was?? I am thinking of this option, but I want to make sure it's obviously decent (should be if its an original?!) as I don't want to have to do this big job again lol
 

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'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
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When Rimmers were having a big clear-out sale of some MG Rover a couple of years ago, I bought one of the 'New-Take-Off' clutch kits for the ZR/IB5 gearbox to keep 'in stock' for when/if I need it in the future (New-Take-Off = removed from a part built car at Longbridge in 2005, after MGR went bust; XPart went in and removed a huge volume of body panels and other high turnover parts such as brakes and clutches). From your description, it sounds as though the one you have been offered may be one of these NewTO parts too.

The NewTO clutch plate is clearly marked as 'AP', so I would assume that buying an AP clutch kit now would be of equivalent quality to original factory fit, and as I have not yet had to have a new clutch in any car I have owned despite running a bubble 216si to 108k, a ZR 120 to 101k, and my current ZR 120 now on 95k, so I would say the factory fit clutches are pretty decent (AP were taken over by Raicam in 2009, and I don't know if there has been any resultant change to the quality as a result?).
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #26
OK that makes perfect sense - I will therefore go with this - thank you so much :)
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #27
Hi Everyone... I just to keep you all updated - I have my clutch kit and have started following steps on a great thread on here for clutch replacement.
Seeing as I won't be working for a while due to this god awful virus, I am going to spend a couple of hours a day and do this slowly but surely.. I am sure I will have a few questions along the way... will keep you all posted :)
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #28
Hi everyone - just wondered if anyone could help with advice on removing the gear linkage from the gearbox? I have detached it from the bottom of the gearstick, and and also drained the gearbox. I cannot however seem to pull it from the gearbox..? Is it just a case of continually twisting and pulling to remove it, or am I missing something here?? I have attached a pic to show you where the linkage will not pop out from... As you can see I have peeled back the rubber gaiters etc...?
135411
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #31
that bit stays in the box, if you look further back on the rod you'll see a little pin you have to knock out
Hi. I can see a pin but that looks like it goes in from the top, which is impossible to get to to knock through??... Have you personally done this? If so may I ask how you did it?
 

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rover_25
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no, its pushes out from the bottom, its just a round peg, a small punch and it will come out, it can be a bugger, ive done loads of them
 

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I second that. When replacing the gear linkage, I soaked the pin area in plus gas overnight before it could be extracted!

 

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mg_tf
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That looks like what we used to refer to as a C - lock pin, which has a tapered end to aid it being punched into the hole - tapered, since is a slightly larger diameter than the hole, and compresses to go in.
Bit of a *** to drift out I would imagine since the shaft it’s in is not rigid? and tapping force is reduced.
 
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