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The mgf has been stood for a few weeks now and I presume the battery has gone flat, it’s a new battery bought from Halfords less then 6 months ago, it just clicks when I try and start it, tried jump starting it and it’s the same, charged battery and still the same, could it be starter motor?
 

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Try an umbrella to knock the starter motor (an old trick from years ago) in case it has become 'stuck'.

My gut feel is that it is the battery; in my experience, even if new, if left for so long without a charge, it is curtains...Use a meter to check voltage and amps.

I bought a lithium battery from Halfords several years ago. Within 1 year it was dead because I failed to recharge it whilst the car was not being used on one occasion.
 

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mg_tf
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It could be the starter motor. I would check all the electrical connections to the motor first. Make sure they are all clean and not corroded in any way. There is cable at the rear of the engine (it is on my TF anyway) which is the main earth lead between the engine and the body of the car, make sure thats all clean and looking healthy.
Ultimately yes it could be the starter motor. How many miles has the car done?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It could be the starter motor. I would check all the electrical connections to the motor first. Make sure they are all clean and not corroded in any way. There is cable at the rear of the engine (it is on my TF anyway) which is the main earth lead between the engine and the body of the car, make sure thats all clean and looking healthy.
Ultimately yes it could be the starter motor. How many miles has the car done?
It’s on 105000, but only done about 300 miles in the last 3 years
 

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mg_tf
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In which case it's probably a good place to start looking at electrical connections. It maybe that connections have deteriorated whilst it's been stood. If they all appear ok I would remove the starer motor and see if spins off the car and if you can support the motor and test it by sticking12 volts on it. If you feel competent at that point you could strip the motor and check it out internally.
 

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mgf
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have you tried bump starting it? if there is a definately click coming from engine, put the car in gear and rock the car back and forth as it sounds like starter motor is stuck. if you can bump start it then i think that will prove its the starter motor. i am assuming its not immobiliser issue in that you turn the key and no lights come on dash and when you turn ignition key further nothing happens?.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
have you tried bump starting it? if there is a definately click coming from engine, put the car in gear and rock the car back and forth as it sounds like starter motor is stuck. if you can bump start it then i think that will prove its the starter motor. i am assuming its not immobiliser issue in that you turn the key and no lights come on dash and when you turn ignition key further nothing happens?.
Hi
definately not the immobile, the lights and radio come on but as soon as I turn key it just clicks, my thoughts are with starter motor, will get it out as soon as it stops raining
 

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Never sure whether bump starting these cars is a good thing. Years ago some owners were saying that it was not a good idea with a rubber cam belt, potentially jumping a tooth or two........I have never seen the proof but never done it myself in 22 years of ownership.
 

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The starter motor connectors are easier to get to from the boot on the F. the culprit is usually the spade connector on the solenoid, it can become corroded or loose. A quick wiggle can usually resolve the issue. Picture shows the wire...it is wrongly identified as an earth wire though.

 

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As has been suggested, you may have sulphated the battery. Lead-acid batteries do not like being deep-discharged and being left in that state for any length of time. Sulphate can build up on the terminals and have a chance to crystallise, then it's impossible to shift. If you have a voltmeter you could try measuring the battery voltage when there is no load on the battery, then when you turn the starter. No load (charged) battery voltage should be in the 13V region for a charged battery, maybe a smidge less. This would rise to nearer 14V if the engine was going and the alternator was charging the battery. The battery voltage should drop to somewhere around 6V during the cranking of the starter motor I understand.
Alternatively, if you can pop off the battery sealing strip on top and get a look down into each cell, you can measure the voltage of each cell (or the voltage to, say, the negative battery terminal). As you move the voltmeter probe along from the metal contact in each cell, the voltage should increase by about 2V per cell. If one or more of the cells bucks this trend, it's a duff cell. Toast...
 
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