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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a slight drip of oil coming from what I think is my oil pump. With no expertise in this area, do fellow (more experienced) members have any thoughts as to whether this is something I can fix/ change myself? See attached video.

Thanks in advance


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mg_tf
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Video here...Tapatalk Cloud - Downlaoad File 20200615_171455.mp4

Shoddy video lol

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I'm not sure from the video that's coming from the oil pump. On an MOT a couple of years ago I was told oil pump gasket was leaking and that showed itself as a slick all-around right-hand side of the engine. With copious amounts of oil around the crank bolt. However, I'm sure you will find adequate instructions on the forum.
The oil pump not over difficult to replace. My biggest problem was removing the crank bolt. But when I used a crank locking tool everything else fell into place.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I literally watched the video then looked on Rimmers for an engine part that looked similar lol. I'm very much a 'have a go' kinda chap and often just guess at what I'm seeing and wing it. So advice is greatly appreciated.

Many thanks

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mg_tf
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That leak looks like it's from the drive shaft seal. It would be good if you could get another video where you keep the camera on the area where the oil is. It is possible that it's coming from above and just dribbling down the drive shaft area so if it's possible get a video from above. A video from above will be very hard unless you remove the engine cover however. If it is the drive shaft oil seal it's quite an involved repair, requiring the suspension to be stripped out of the way to allow the drive shaft to come out. Renewing the oil seal will be simple either. If you've got good DIY mechanic skills then fine but if you haven't I'd give the bullet and get it do e professionally.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies. I'll try and get a better video. I seem to have developed a tapping or ticking sound from the engine too, that matches the engine speed. I'm not losing a lot of oil, only a few drops after the engine is warm, and the oil is amber coloured.

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I suspect the ticking noise is related to a belt of some kind, though I doubt it's the alternator as it speeds up when I rev at idle

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Any idea where the ticking noise is coming from on the engine? Does the noise disappear when the engine is revved? A ticking noise from the top might be a hydraulic tapping noise.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It's towards the driver's side of the engine. The sound resembles if there was a piece of tape on a belt slapping something as the belt turns. It's not a loud sound. It goes faster when I rev the engine, at idle or when driving.

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Discussion Starter #10
Alternator belt failed this morning lol

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Discussion Starter #13
Changed it about 2 years ago. Cambelt never done

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I am surprised the cambelt survived and the alternator belt did not. No alternator belt should fail within 2 years (genuinely shocked).Of course, all belts should be replaced at the same time every 60K miles / 5 years whichever is the sooner
 

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MG TF
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I would check that the bearing on the alternator isn't seized, alternator belts don't normally fail in such as short time.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I assume the cambelt isn't something I can attempt myself? I can certainly replace the alternator belt... perhaps I over tensioned it last time I changed it? Meanwhile, I still have that pesky drip. These things do seem to come in clusters lol

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Having changed my cambelt last summer I'd say there are a few pitfalls which you need to research before attempting this job. These can be undoing the crank bolt and releasing of engine mount for starters. In its essence, it is a straightforward job I would suggest you read the many posts on here to see some of the pitfalls that you can encounter.

A reasonable selection of tools a cam locking tool and i'd personally recommend a crank locking tool as well, plenty of patience, and a couple of days set by for it.

I would suggest that if you are changing the cambelt then you should consider the water pump at the same time. This then means a coolant drain and refill which seems to bring its own sleepless nights, you might then consider changing the under car coolant pipes for stainless ones if not already done.

One of the problems I found was the lining up of the timing marks, which after much fretting and asking on this forum I found the crank gear had been previously squashed on to the shaft allowing the marks to be out of alignment.

Finally, there is a sense of achievement if you do take it on and complete it, but you really do need to consider if your enthusiasm is matched by your ability. If you think you previously overtightened your alternator belt it might be better to get someone to help you or admit it’s not in your skillset currently and find a good garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I've replaced the alternator belt. It had split and was indeed too tight. The new one has less tension, I figure I can tighten more if it begins to slip.

As for the timing belt, I'm gonna leave it for now. My engine seems fine, purrs in fact. I will however investigate the oil drip further, although it seems to have stopped...

Will update, thanks all

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