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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone, i have an MG ZR 2.0 Turbo Diesel with L-Series Engine, MK2 (2004 model). Only 147.000 km, i bought it 3 months ago.
So the problem is that i have little power under 2000 rpm (Maybe cuz there is no turbo boost at those rpm), between 2k and 2900 rpm i have torque and power (No enough but at least i can do 120 km/h on highway.
Over 2900 rpm the car is dead, no power. With no gear, the car revs fine over 5000rpm-
I Checked those things:
  • MAF sensor, cleaned, replaced twice and still the same. (Unpluged cuts revs over 4000rpm)
  • Fuel pump timing, cuz it looks like a fuel lack, but it's okat.
  • EGR solenoid, makes a little bit of noise, i changed it and still the same.
  • MAP (Turbo boost) sensor, it works good.
  • First Injector wire (Needle sensor), it works, i used the multimeter (unpluged cut revs over 4250rpm)
  • Throttle position sensor, it works good, unpluged stays at 1250 rpm.
  • I Changed all filters (fuel, intake air, oil, air conditioning).
  • There is no leak in any hose, i checked all the hoses, intercooler, intake, small ones.
  • All the fuses (Engine compartiment and drivers compartiment, are there any more)
I bought it cheap cuz it has lackof power, and i thought i could fix it, but it looks impossible. i don't even felt the power of the car, in uphills goes under 100km/h.

The only thing i did to improve a little bit the "Power" was to increas boost pressure by opening the outflow later (Just 180º of nut shortering the bar)

Thanx to everyone for your attention.. and more thankfull if trys to help me!!
 

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mg_zr
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If unplugging the maf the car works well until 4000rpm, the problem you have there, new maf and check the wiring, I had problems with the connector itself that the pins no longer made good contact.

Regards.

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Si desenchufando el caudalimetro el coche funciona bien hasta las 4000rpm, el problema lo tienes allí, caudalimetro nuevo y revisa el cableado, yo he tenido problemas con el propio conector que los pines ya no hacían buen contacto.

Saludos.

Pd: Te lo pongo también en español que tu y yo nos entenderemos mejor con el

Enviado desde mi Mi A1 mediante Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
UPP!!!!! Nobody knows nothing ???
If unplugging the maf the car works well until 4000rpm, the problem you have there, new maf and check the wiring, I had problems with the connector itself that the pins no longer made good contact.

Regards.

-------------

Si desenchufando el caudalimetro el coche funciona bien hasta las 4000rpm, el problema lo tienes allí, caudalimetro nuevo y revisa el cableado, yo he tenido problemas con el propio conector que los pines ya no hacían buen contacto.

Saludos.

Pd: Te lo pongo también en español que tu y yo nos entenderemos mejor con el

Enviado desde mi Mi A1 mediante Tapatalk
Yeah for sure, i tryed 1 new MAF and 2 old ones,i checked the wirings between the MAF and the ECU, even i conected it directly between the MAF conector and the ECU, i tryed also with the multimeter, and the voltage changes when i rev, i am really tired, but anyway, tomorrow at the morning i will check it again.

Does the MG ZR Diesel has a fuel pump in the reservoir ?? Does anyone knows from where the fuel tips cross from the reservoir to the fuel filter, maybe i have aproblem of obstruction or some dirt in there.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ya te digo que sii, hahaha, he probado con 2 caudalimetros, y uno nuevo, y el mismo problema, la cosa es que con el multimetro con mi caudalimetro conectado, varía el voltaje que le llega a la ECU, eso quiere decir que funciona correctamente, ya que manda mas señal en función del aire que le entra. De todos modos mañana volveré a probar.
Sabes por donde pasan las tuberias de combustible ? Tienen prebomba los diesel ??

Muchas gracias por contestar DSH1985
Thanx!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Have you checked the fuel Injectors to see they are working efficiently?
The car has only 147.000km, do you think that the fuel injector could be jetting low pressure ?
The problem es that the car runs smooth.. till 2900 rpm, i foot all the throttle, but there's no response after those revs, in 1st and 2nd gear i can rev untill 4500, but after the 2900 rpm, revs too much slow, and in 3rd 4th and 5th gear, there's not enough power (fuel i gess) to rev it more than 3000-3100rpm.

Thank you for your response GNU, i'll also keep in mind to check the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll see, i only have turbo boost between 2000 and 2900 rpm.
Are Ebay turbos for mg zr good ?? i saw some for only 180€
 

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mg_zr
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You are only doing badly with the connected maf, for what you put, I am still convinced that your problem comes from it, have you checked the voltage at the input pins to the ecu?

Enviado desde mi Mi A1 mediante Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You are only doing badly with the connected maf, for what you put, I am still convinced that your problem comes from it, have you checked the voltage at the input pins to the ecu?

Enviado desde mi Mi A1 mediante Tapatalk
Yeah, sure, i'll check them tomorrow again, i'll clean them with contact cleaner, and remake all the wirings.
The voltage moves between 1.5 to 4.55 volts i gess.. I'm not sure cuz i don't remember well; tomorrow i'll check it and tell you.

By the way, where are you from ??
 

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mg_zr
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Yeah, sure, i'll check them tomorrow again, i'll clean them with contact cleaner, and remake all the wirings.
The voltage moves between 1.5 to 4.55 volts i gess.. I'm not sure cuz i don't remember well; tomorrow i'll check it and tell you.

By the way, where are you from ??
I had the car running correctly with the maf and its own ecu, and until I did not put an ecu reprogrammed by CJLTuning the wiring problem did not begin to show ... I don't know the reason, I think it's because the reprogrammed ecu makes use more exhaustive of the voltages it commands ...

And I had several conversations with the reprogrammer and he always said that the problems would come from the wiring, and in the end it was.

If your car with the maf disconnected works with the maffless mode that has the ecu, it reaches up to 4000 and accelerating since 2000 ... what is driving the ecu crazy is the maf.

As for the subject of the voltages that he has to give ... until that point my knowledge no longer reaches.

I am from Palencia.

PS: You can leave the maf disconnected and drive with the car normally, you will not be the first or the last to do so, and for what you say, your safety at the wheel will thank you.

---------------------------------------------

Yo tenia el coche funcionando correctamente con el caudalimetro y su propia ecu, y hasta que no le metí una ecu reprogramada por CJLTuning no empezaron a mostrarse los problema del cableado... Desconozco el motivo, creo que sea porque la ecu reprogramada hace un uso mas exhaustivo de los voltajes que manda...

Y tuve varias conversaciones con el reprogramador y el siempre dijo que los problemas iban a venir del cableado, y al final asi fue.

Si tu coche con el caudalimetro desconectado funciona con el modo maffless que tiene la ecu, llega hasta las 4000 y acelerando desde las 2000... lo que esta volviendo loca a la ecu es el caudalimetro.

En cuanto al tema de los voltajes que tiene que dar... hasta ese punto ya no llegan mis conocimientos.

Soy de Palencia.

PD: Puedes dejar el caudalimetro desconectado y circular con el coche normalmente, no vas a ser el primero ni el ultimo que lo haga, y por lo que comentas, tu seguridad al volante te lo agradecerá.
 

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rover_sd1
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I had a similar problem around the same Mileage. I discovered it was the Cat. The car would go well then suddenly lose power and not want to start. Then the car would start an run like a sick dog at low speed. I took the cat off and found that the baffle plates has come loose shutting off the exhaust at odd times. Hope this helps.





Hi everyone, i have an MG ZR 2.0 Turbo Diesel with L-Series Engine, MK2 (2004 model). Only 147.000 km, i bought it 3 months ago.
So the problem is that i have little power under 2000 rpm (Maybe cuz there is no turbo boost at those rpm), between 2k and 2900 rpm i have torque and power (No enough but at least i can do 120 km/h on highway.
Over 2900 rpm the car is dead, no power. With no gear, the car revs fine over 5000rpm-
I Checked those things:
  • MAF sensor, cleaned, replaced twice and still the same. (Unpluged cuts revs over 4000rpm)
  • Fuel pump timing, cuz it looks like a fuel lack, but it's okat.
  • EGR solenoid, makes a little bit of noise, i changed it and still the same.
  • MAP (Turbo boost) sensor, it works good.
  • First Injector wire (Needle sensor), it works, i used the multimeter (unpluged cut revs over 4250rpm)
  • Throttle position sensor, it works good, unpluged stays at 1250 rpm.
  • I Changed all filters (fuel, intake air, oil, air conditioning).
  • There is no leak in any hose, i checked all the hoses, intercooler, intake, small ones.
  • All the fuses (Engine compartiment and drivers compartiment, are there any more)
I bought it cheap cuz it has lackof power, and i thought i could fix it, but it looks impossible. i don't even felt the power of the car, in uphills goes under 100km/h.

The only thing i did to improve a little bit the "Power" was to increas boost pressure by opening the outflow later (Just 180º of nut shortering the bar)

Thanx to everyone for your attention.. and more thankfull if trys to help me!!
 

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Run a can of fuel direct to the pump by passing the fuel system, this will tell you if you have a fuel feed problem ( blockage in the line or tank ) or not, I had a leaf in mine once ....very annoying.
 
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