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Discussion Starter #1
Due to a bit of excessive play in my rear offside wheel bearing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIwX6WQhO24

I am building up some new hubs and flanges so that I can do a straight swap out.

This just shows the pressing in of the bearings for those interested, but I will be adding removal of the hubs etc when I get around to it.

First of all I bought new hubs for the TF



2 New bearings kits



and 2 new flanges



The bearing kit comes with 2 retaining clips, a bearing and a hub nut.



I fitted the outer retaining ring into the hub. If you look inside the hub you will see an inner and outer recess where the retaining rings fit.





Slide the spring steel ring into the hub until it snaps into place





Next, you will need a press to press the bearings into the hub.

Here's one I prepared earlier.



Offer the bearing up to the side that you haven't fitted the retaining ring to.



Find a suitable tool to spread the weight around the outer race of the bearing and support the hub making sure it is level. I found large sockets were the best thing to use as they are pretty solid and you can get the size just right.



Now operate the press and slowly insert the bearing into the hub until it is flush against the retaining ring. If you are using a hydraulic press, this will be the point when the pressure starts rising.



Remove the hub from the press and you should be able to see the remaining recess.



Push the remaining retaining clip into the hub



Until it clicks into place



The bearing is now fitted in the hub

Next. use the same principle to press the flange shaft (never thought I would type them together :) )



into the inner race of the bearing. Using sockets or whatever tool you have, support the inner race while using the press to press the drive flange into the hub.

The hub, bearing and flange is now assembled waiting to fit to the car.



I realise this probably won't be much help to most, unless you have a press, but it might give you an insight into what you are asking the garage to do when fitting new bearings.
 

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Have you assembled both yet? Only someone on hear was talking about looking to see if a rover with a proper PCD's flange shaft would fit.. Or maybe it can be tried with one of the knackered ones you remove?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have you assembled both yet? Only someone on hear was talking about looking to see if a rover with a proper PCD's flange shaft would fit.. Or maybe it can be tried with one of the knackered ones you remove?
Yes, I have done both, but I will be taking the old ones off and refurbing them.

I think the best way would be to see if they use the same bearing. Not sure, but I think the F/TF bearing is a different inside diameter.

I will, in the future, be having some flanges made to order that use the standard bearings, but give a 100pcd which will allow a better choice of wheels and brake discs.
 

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cityrover
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Did that earlier this year Clive, £20.00 to press both sides and in all fairness, they were the ones who told me about the issue with the N/S flange.

A bearing change, in all, cost me £40.00 for the bearings, £20.00 to have them pressed and best part of £200 for both rear flanges. Ok 1 would have done but if I am doing one problematic one then I would then rather do both.

Oh yeah, on top of that, I had 2 weeks of a nagging wife because she couldn't use the car.

Good "how to" again though m8
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did that earlier this year Clive, £20.00 to press both sides and in all fairness, they were the ones who told me about the issue with the N/S flange.

A bearing change, in all, cost me £40.00 for the bearings, £20.00 to have them pressed and best part of £200 for both rear flanges. Ok 1 would have done but if I am doing one problematic one then I would then rather do both.

Oh yeah, on top of that, I had 2 weeks of a nagging wife because she couldn't use the car.

Good "how to" again though m8
I prefer to do things in pairs.

I got my flanges for £55 each. Bearings were around £17 each and Hubs were £35 each.
 

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cityrover
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You know how to spoil someones evening lol

Delivered
=> Customer Order Number: 3E164689 Branch: 107407
NAM6530 MGF DRIVE FLANGE WITH STUDS 2 x 79.500 Assembly 159.00
UPSUKR UPS DELIVERY RESIDENTIAL 1 x 9.950 EACH 9.95
** Internet Order **
VAT Rate Goods Amount VAT Amount All goods shall remain the property of the Seller until the price has
been discharged in full. A cheque given by the Purchaser in
payment shall not be treated as a discharge until it has been
cleared.


TOTAL GOODS
£ 168.95

VAt 17.50 168.95 add 29.57


TOTAL VAT £ 29.57

Surcharge units must be returned within 3 months and in a


AMOUNT DUE

reconditionable state to qualify for refund

£ 198.52

That was just the flanges :crying::crying:


BTW, that was copied from a PDF file
 

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nice press clive!!! is that yours??? due to my lack of press payed my local garage to do mine, I provided the bearing.........

if I had a press I might have had a bash, when I had my ford I managed to change my wheel bearings using a suitable sized socket that was just smaller than the bearing and a hammer, the F/TF bearing seemed to be a double bearing and a lot thicker and a don't think a hammer would bash it into the hub :lol:
 

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I changed twice the rear bearings on my other car. First time I just used a socket piece and a hammer and put them in place. Were fine for 10k kms, then pulled them apart, back in.. fine for another 10k... then after 2 times of fiddling, had enough so bought new ones, fitted them with a proper press and been fine ever since.

So lesson to be learnt here... even if they've no play (mine didn't, they were just noisy), better to fit them at a press than manually.
 

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other_manufacturer
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MG F and TF are different diameters.

isnt the F the same as the metro or something?

The TF flange has a larger stub shaft on it than the F

I do remember when I did one on a TF, Motorfactors were adement it was the correct bearing, and I said look.. theres absolutely no way the flange is going to press into that bearing.. and he was like well its the correct one, its just an interferance fit, needs pressing in.

Sat there arguing with him but he wouldnt have it, so in the end I pressed the bearing in just to prove him wrong.

but then i obviously had to press it out again lol, but they refunded it.

must of been an F bearing they supplied. instead of TF
 

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Discussion Starter #10
MG F and TF are different diameters.

The TF flange has a larger stub shaft on it than the F

must of been an F bearing they supplied. instead of TF
The epc for the TF and the F show the same part number for the bearing kits and the drive flange which suggests that the F and TF items are the same. :dunno:

The hub and top joint are different. I believe the top joint is the same as the Metro.
 

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As a side issue, but maybe relevant to the fellow above who replaced a bearing twice, on my car it was the driveshaft that was at fault.

The drive cup with the splined shaft is hardened and this provides the face that butts against the bearing as it goes through the hub/upright.
On my driveshaft this part of the case hardening had softened and the bearing was machining the drive cup metal. This meant after a while the drive cup was a few thou shorter and there was axial play on the shaft, which left slack that put bending loads on the bearing and knackered it.



I did not see this first time on replacement, assuming a simple knackered bearing, but this was it.
New shaft, correct nut torque and it's been fine.
 

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The epc for the TF and the F show the same part number for the bearing kits and the drive flange which suggests that the F and TF items are the same. :dunno:

The hub and top joint are different. I believe the top joint is the same as the Metro.

No idea then lol
all I know is the guy in my local motorfactors was completely adement it was an MG TF bearing kit, yet the flange stub would not press into the bearing...i didnt even bother trying because the flange stub, was roughly 3mm too big to fit into the bearing, you could see it wouldnt go.

That was a QH kit.

yet when I went to euro car parts and got a bearing kit there.. it fitted fine first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You know how to spoil someones evening lol

Delivered
=> Customer Order Number: 3E164689 Branch: 107407
NAM6530 MGF DRIVE FLANGE WITH STUDS 2 x 79.500 Assembly 159.00
UPSUKR UPS DELIVERY RESIDENTIAL 1 x 9.950 EACH 9.95
** Internet Order **
VAT Rate Goods Amount VAT Amount All goods shall remain the property of the Seller until the price has
been discharged in full. A cheque given by the Purchaser in
payment shall not be treated as a discharge until it has been
cleared.


TOTAL GOODS
£ 168.95

VAt 17.50 168.95 add 29.57


TOTAL VAT £ 29.57

Surcharge units must be returned within 3 months and in a


AMOUNT DUE

reconditionable state to qualify for refund

£ 198.52

That was just the flanges :crying::crying:



BTW, that was copied from a PDF file
Ouch.

To be honest, if I was going to pay that I would have shelled out an extra couple of quid and bought these ones, made out of en24 steel and a choice of 100pcd.

http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/56/572/motorsport-drive-flange/
 

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If you don't have access to a press a length of heavy duty threaded bar and a couple of nuts will often pull a bearing into a housing with surprising ease. ( Using the box spanners as spacers, as mentioned above. )



Colvert.
 
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