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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys...

Since I left the car sitting for a week over Christmas I have been having this issue.

Normally when you push the clutch in to change gear, the rev counter will go down but "bounce" and stablise at around 600-700rpm. However, when the car is cold, it seems to just go stright down to 0 and stall. It is really dangerous and annoying when it happens coming up and going round a corner (when you change gears).

After the car is warmed a little, couple of minutes just, it behaves normally. What I mean is you can be doing 3000rpm, push the clutch in and it goes down to around 800rpm and holds there, like it should do.

This only happens when cold in the morning or if it has been sitting all day.

I am getting a service in the next month and would like to get this issue fixed also, but I am at a lose as to what could be the problem.

Any idea's guys?

Thanks :broon:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It sounds like the clutch could be sticking, it could be worth having the fluid changed.
Fluid was changed a year ago and the clutch works fine. I very much doubt is it a clutch problem as it only happen when cold.

Perhaps the coil-packs/HT leads? or a sensor? I'm not sure at all...
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Interesting post.

Now I realize that my F has exactly the same problem.
If I wait 2 minutes on the drive, it will run perfectly.
If I play a bit with the accelerator when cold, it will stall at 0 rpm.
 

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Have had similar problem with my freelander: does it idle at 1200 rpm when cold? if not it could be the idle air control valve stuck, it gets gunked up with oil from the crankcase breather. If a TPS reset doesn't help, the idle valve may need cleaning or replacing. It fixed mine.
 

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mgf
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I agree - If the TPS reset does not work then may be worth sourcing a used Idle Air Control Valve - You can get them for about £15 - £20 used, they are fairly easy to fit and compare the symptoms with a different IACV fitted. They are prone to failing so I also think it's the sort of part that it's worth having a spare of for as long as you have the car.

Might also be worth checking the Throttle Body and Butterfly are reasonably clean too......
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys...

I have done the TPS reset but have not had a chance to drive the car, and will not till Friday...

I will let you guys know if this has fixed the issue.

Hopefully so :broon:
 

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I have had nearly the same problem for over a month.
Starts well then the water temperature starts to rise and bingo it nearly stalls. You'll be dipping the clutch a lot to stop the stall?
Not until the oil starts to warm up does it stop happening.

I have narrowed it down to water temp sensor and the iacv
When you reset the tps I think it resets the idle air control valve as well. I'd warm the engine up first.
Also I have found some improvement using vpower unleaded. £1.10 a litre. It has cleaners in it. (I initially thought it was an injector issue).

Have you noticed the temp gauge going up a lot faster than it used to? Mine does.

Check the wiring; around the sensors. There are a few weird things happening when I start mine. (one head lamp does not come on, 5 seconds later its on - then the engine runs better)

There is an oil temp sensor and I read maybe disconnecting the water temp sensor would help test it by allowing the engine to run on default until the oil is at temp.

Can the iacv be changed over easily. Should it be done when the engine is warm? Would the car start if the iacv was fitted to a cold engine?

Thats all I got. Let me know what you do and how you solve this one.
 

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Have had similar problem with my freelander: does it idle at 1200 rpm when cold? if not it could be the idle air control valve stuck, it gets gunked up with oil from the crankcase breather. If a TPS reset doesn't help, the idle valve may need cleaning or replacing. It fixed mine.
Hey pavloboy. Mine idles at about just over 1000 rpm when cold. then dips to 200 or less and then just about recovers.
Did you change your iacv yourself or clean it? Which one do you have?
 

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I had a similar problem with my 1.8turbo ZT, it only cut out when cold starting after running for a couple of minutes it was fine.

I tried all the usual suspect things,New plugs, service,new coil pack,swapped the IAVC,new lambda sensor,oil temperature sensor,coolant temperature sensor,cleaned and checked the throttle body air intake for leaks,couple of tanks of petrol with redex additive,new inlet manifold gasket to rule out water getting in.Still no joy it kept cutting out when cold.

In the end I put it down to a sticking valve and gave up because I wasn't paying for stripping the engine.

The head gasket was going a year or so later(loosing a small amount of coolant) so I had to have that done :hgf: While the mechanic was there he found a hairline crack by one of the valves, turned out that was the problem.Had a replacement head put on good as new.:broon:

The point of the post is, although it probably isn't a crack in your cylinder head,it could well be one of the other things mentioned above.I wish you luck finding it,the joys of owning an MG:lol:
 

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My IACV is SBZ005, the later sealed sort, and it looked gunged up when I removed it. There are some new ones on ebay at £30 or so. Might be worth looking at yours and trying to free it off with carb cleaner first. I also found that the TPS reset needs a bit of care- warm engine, ign off, then to 2, press throttle fully every 2 secs for 20 secs, ign off, wait 20 secs, start engine and let it idle for a minute or so while the mixture sorts itself out.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My IACV is SBZ005, the later sealed sort, and it looked gunged up when I removed it. There are some new ones on ebay at £30 or so. Might be worth looking at yours and trying to free it off with carb cleaner first. I also found that the TPS reset needs a bit of care- warm engine, ign off, then to 2, press throttle fully every 2 secs for 20 secs, ign off, wait 20 secs, start engine and let it idle for a minute or so while the mixture sorts itself out.
Hi guys,

Sorry for the late reply as I have been away...

Ok I done the throttle reset as per the link above, revved it in the drive and behaved perfect. Then took it for a spin, everything perfect up the gears, then as I came to a roundabout it stalled as I went to changed gear...

Looks like the reset didn't work...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My IACV is SBZ005, the later sealed sort, and it looked gunged up when I removed it. There are some new ones on ebay at £30 or so. Might be worth looking at yours and trying to free it off with carb cleaner first. I also found that the TPS reset needs a bit of care- warm engine, ign off, then to 2, press throttle fully every 2 secs for 20 secs, ign off, wait 20 secs, start engine and let it idle for a minute or so while the mixture sorts itself out.
Ok, that is strange, the link above says to reset the throttle when the engine is cold. It also says to press the throttle only once in 30 seconds...

Confusing...

I will try your way when I come back from the Chinese in a bit sir :broon:
 

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I've just done the IACV and TPS reset.
For the IACV, I squirted some Wynnes inlet manifold cleaner into the air box without the filter in place but I also cleaned as much grunge off the valve using cotton buds and brake cleaner (i didn't have anything else).
For the TPS I tackled it on a warm engine. After running the car, I turned it off then on to II. I depressed and released the pedal 5 times in 30 seconds (did it slowly). I then waited 15 seconds and turned off. First time didn't work but second time I had steady revs around 800rpm.

I found the advice on a google check. Someone on YouTube has a video
 
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