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Try the dongle in another car?
 
Discussion starter · #43 · (Edited)
Changing subject, I'll provide a few measures for the AP calipers.
I've found amazingly difficult to dig this info throughout internet.


AP Calipers bolts sizes:

AP Caliper to Hub bolt size: M12 x 1.5 x 35mm (Standard is 25mm). I went for Titanium bolts. My understanding is that the standard strength is 8.8. A lot of discussion on internet if higher strength bolts are good or bad. Arguments on it is that higher strength grade bolts tends to shatter, not bend, and for calipers is "safer" the latter. Don't take my word for it.
Bleed nipples: M10 x 1.0 x 20.5 mm
Bleed caps: suited for M10 bleed nipples. Better with retention hook.
Banjo bolts: M10 x 1.0mm x 20mm (standard is 24mm)

Mike Satur sell stainless steel pads shin plates. I strongly suggest to buy those.

I'll post some pictures later of my calipers, with all these new parts.
 
Changing subject, I'll provide a few measures for the AP calipers.
I've found amazingly difficult to dig this info throughout internet.


AP Calipers bolts sizes:

AP Caliper to Hub bolt size: M10 x 1.5 x 30mm (Standard is 25mm). I've went for Titanium bolts.
Bleed nipples: M10 x 1.0 x 20.5 mm
Bleed caps: suited for M10 bleed nipples. Better with retention hook.
Banjo bolts: M10 x 1.0mm x 20mm (standard is 24mm)

Mike Satur sell stainless steel pads shin plates. I strongly suggest to buy those.

I'll post some pictures later of my calipers, with all these new parts.
Do you not already have these bolts? Just use a micrometer and thread gauge to get the sizes?

Wish I'd read this thread earlier though, the dongle chat was just crying out for a pun or two.
 
Discussion starter · #46 · (Edited)
A short update:

* I'll post some pictures of my new "On Board Computer", probably tomorrow.
I'm quite pleased with results: I've got most of the optional that more modern cars comes with, or even more.

* I gave in, and just received a MS SSK! Hope to fit tomorrow, along some other bits.

 
Slick Shift Kit right?

Looking forward to the update regarding the on board computer!
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
So, the promised update on my dashboard computer is late in coming, as I've spent a few hours installing the new brakes kit.

I've done the front, the rear are halfway.
I got beaten by the winding tool and the darkness.

I'm planning of buying this one: Laser winding tool.

Also, fitting the rear bit disc conversion kit has proved a bit tricky, but I've made the N/S one.
I'll see how to fit the new pads after the piston is winded back.

Then I'll bleed all 4, of course.

Note: the rear calipers have 3 years, but are already ugly. Really ugly.
This remind me why I stopped using a certain, renown, garage.








 
I have just bought this kit
.Universal 22pc Disc Brake Caliper Piston Rewind Tool Kit Set Auto Wind Back Car | eBay










Looks really well made, but won't get a chance to test it out until next summer when my back brake calipers will come off for a swap over.
Was intending to use it on MG ZT-T when I do the brakes later next week, but realised they are not wind back pistons on the ZT due to having both pads and shoes for the handbrake!


Sundance
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
So... after 24 hours working on my new brake assets... I emerged victorious.

24 over a few days and the car is back on track: better, nastier and cooler.

Meanwhile, I've created some post-modern piece of art:



For all of you that is puzzled by what is this ... the winding caliper tool stuck in a damn caliper.
I don't know how it happened... to you wondering how I managed to break free the tool. If...
 
For all of you that is puzzled by what is this ... the winding caliper tool stuck in a damn caliper.
I don't know how it happened... to you wondering how I managed to break free the tool. If...
Do you need the caliper? - if not cut it up to free the tool - assuming that its still usable of course?

ps well done on completing the job! - still desperate to see your on-board computer :)
 
why cut the caliper up , to free the tool ? , thats why it has hex bits on it to fit a spanner on to free it off incase it gets stuck , loosen it off then knock the plate out with a hammer and it will come off easy peasy...
 
why cut the caliper up , to free the tool ? , thats why it has hex bits on it to fit a spanner on to free it off incase it gets stuck , loosen it off then knock the plate out with a hammer and it will come off easy peasy...
I was assuming that he had already tried that and had no joy, hence my suggestion.
 
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