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Discussion Starter #1
When I fitted my quad lights, as always I took a couple of photos along the way so thought it was about time I did a proper how to with them rather than leaving them sitting around my hard drive doing nothing... So here it is.



Start off by disconnecting your existing lights by separating the plug from the lights - I had Pro Design lights, but the plugs are the same for lexus lights:





Standard lights are slightly different, however the unplugging process is the same:




Lights can then be removed by undoing the 3 (8mm) bolts holding them in place and pushing lights carefully from inside (you may need to unstick the foam gasket using a blunt, non-metallic instrument if it's become stuck to the bodywork):






I removed the gasket from the lights so I could re-use it on the quads:



There's a couple of different ways of completing the next steps depending on whether you are fitting chrome finishing rings or not... I have fitted rings, so miss out the following steps as necessary.

This is what I've stuck the rings on with:


Apply a bead of the Superflex around the edge of each light:


And then push the ring onto the light - this will cause the sealant to splodge out as so:



This needs wiping off the outer ring, but there will be enough holding the ring securely onto the light on the inside:


Repeat x4 and leave to dry thoroughly overnight if possible.


Each light then needs to be fixed into the moulds using the supplied triangle brackets:







The gasket can then be fitted onto the back of the mould, I've not glued mine on as it seems to do the job fine as is - it did need trimming slightly to ensure it sat just inside the moulding:


The unit including the lights can then be fitted onto the car using the existing mount holes. (You may need to file out the holes slightly and if this is the case then make sure you apply some paint or protectant to the bare metal to help resist rusting in the future). I offered up the mould and then loosely screwed in some long bolts to hold it in place whilst I screwed in the (supplied) shorter bolts:





Once tightened sufficiently, the lights should sit fairly flush with the bodywork and pull in the gasket nice and snug:






I had to adjust the boot latch plate a little on mine as the top of the lights just caught the edge of the boot lid:




All that's left to do then is to wire them in.
Cut the existing connectors off the Fiat lights and discard them as they will no longer be needed:
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
There are two ways of wiring the lights in - the (relatively) permanant and non-permanant way - depending on which connectors you decide to use.
(I've mislaid my notepad with the wiring details on of which wire goes to which, but will edit this post to include those when I find it)


Non-perm use cable lock connectors:









I've wired mine in relatively permanantly with in-line connectors as it made things a bit neater:




Tidy things up by taping the joints with electrical tape and then tuck the wires under the carpet :




Stand back and admire your new rear end :D



Edited to add the wiring details:


I've been out and checked mine and this is how I've got the wiring configured:


MG Wiring:

  • Fogs - blue black
  • Indicators - yellow black
  • Reverse - white black
  • Main lights - green black
  • Brakes - red black

Fiat Wiring:

  • Fogs - red & blck
  • Indicators - Yellow & black
  • Reverse - Red & black
  • Main lights & Brakes - Orange & White & Black





Another edit to add - I've got mine wired slightly differently now, I used an old lexus type loom with the connector which plugs onto standard lights, and have wired the fiat loom into that - it just makes it a lot easier to chop and change the lights without having to rewire the connectors from the car wiring loom.
 

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Excellent how to. Still like the smoothed look, but as you say it is a lot of cost and colour matching.

The in line crimps are the best way to go. The Scotchlok connectors are the work of the devil and are the cause of many electrical problems some years down the line. They actually cut into the conductor and can work loose over time.

Can I just say look out for where the left edge of the boot lid closes onto the body. You can just see a mark on your pic



I have just had to respray this as when the boot closes it chips the paint and then starts rusting. Catch it early with a touch up pen and keep an eye on it. Maybe adjust the rubber stop under the boot.

 

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Perfect guide Jan! Can't thank you enough - this will really help me fit my quads! You're a star! :broon:

Would love to give you some rep but apparently I've got to spread it round before giving it to you again :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The in line crimps are the best way to go. The Scotchlok connectors are the work of the devil and are the cause of many electrical problems some years down the line. They actually cut into the conductor and can work loose over time.

Can I just say look out for where the left edge of the boot lid closes onto the body. You can just see a mark on your pic
The in line crimps give a much better connection for sure - and are much neater. I only posted the scotchlock info as an alternative.. maybe I'll remove that bit from the how to.. :dunno:

And yep, I also need to sort out the rust patch on the boot lid etc - I'm still hoping to get a full respray with the insurance though so will be asking them to sort that out at the time ;)


:bigeyes::bigeyes::scary:

eeek. Fiat... that's like italian stuff you know ... :run!:
:lol: Yep Italian lights, Spanish splitter - and soon to be completed with a French rear splitter :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You could have made a bit more effort with the nail varnish Jan :shake: :dddc:
I know.. I'm sorry.. It does look a right mess :sad2: I did take it off when I realised just how bad it had got... I was too busy taking pics to notice at the time :err:
 

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Very nice Jan... But, I do wish you would stop this you know.. I was happy with mine and now since finding this site, the 'to do' list is getting longer and longer ;)
 

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Perfect, but 1 side note: if you put your hands on a set of 2nd hand quad units, be sure they are the mk2's. During the years, the design changed a bit. The very early ones needed a bit of cutting/sawing in the bodywork before they fitted.
It's much easier to fit the mk2's.
 
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