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Just for your info , the text is completely invisible for us light skin users ;)

I assume its another good how to though.
 

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You wouldn't have to worry about breaking the brake disc retaining screws so much if your replacing the hubs! As you can just leave the broken screw in the old hub.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
clive you could have polished your backbox before the photos :lol:
I prefer a dirty box :)

Excellent how-to. One thing I usually do my classic MGs when doing this type of work is to smear the exposed threads with grease if only to make my life easier the next time I have to undo them.

What are your views on using copper grease on the threads during re-assembly? I tend to not where they have to be torqued up but I do if the nut is castellated with split pin or on less critical nuts/bolts such as exhaust mounts, etc.
I use loads of coppergrease, but I didn't include it in the how to as it is personal choice.

You obviously missed it on this pic :)



I have ordered some self fusing (self amalgamating) tape and will be greasing the threads and wrapping them in tape to keep them clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Just for your info , the text is completely invisible for us light skin users ;)

I assume its another good how to though.
Yep, sorry about that.

If I create a post on here then it uses a default text formatting which I assume changes with whatever theme you have selected.

However, I like to author my how tos in Word firt and then cut and paste it.

This comes out as black text which I cannot see on my dark background, so I have to go in to the text editor and change the colour. This means it stays that colour wherever you view it from, so will be invisible on a light background.

If anyone knows how to format the text so that it uses the default settings, please let me know.

You wouldn't have to worry about breaking the brake disc retaining screws so much if your replacing the hubs! As you can just leave the broken screw in the old hub.
I wasn't worried :)
 

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Discussion Starter #27
One problem that pops up more often than anything is “My car feels unstable”.

A lot of times this is put down to tyres or tyre pressures, but if these check out OK then it is worth checking the wheel bearings.

If the rear wheel bearings wear or collapse it will result in a lot of play on that wheel and it will start “self steering”, which means the wheel can actually move or steer a couple of degrees without any input from you. This will feel as though you are driving on ice, especially when cruising along a straight road such as a motorway.

The easiest way to check for play in the wheel bearings is to jack the car up so that the wheel is off the ground and grab the wheel at the 6 o’clock position (hand top and bottom) and the 2:45 position. In either of these positions, try to make the wheel rock around the hub. In other words push with one hand while pulling with the other and reverse the motion.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
One problem that pops up more often than anything is “My car feels unstable”.

A lot of times this is put down to tyres or tyre pressures, but if these check out OK then it is worth checking the wheel bearings.

If the rear wheel bearings wear or collapse it will result in a lot of play on that wheel and it will start “self steering”, which means the wheel can actually move or steer a couple of degrees without any input from you. This will feel as though you are driving on ice, especially when cruising along a straight road such as a motorway.

The easiest way to check for play in the wheel bearings is to jack the car up so that the wheel is off the ground and grab the wheel at the 6 o’clock position (hand top and bottom) and the 2:45 position. In either of these positions, try to make the wheel rock around the hub. In other words push with one hand while pulling with the other and reverse the motion.
 

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Can you see if you can see it now mate.

Things I do for you. ;)
I love you!!



I remember the rear bearing went on the old F and it was nothing short of very dangerous. I had a 120 miles drive with white knuckles stopping my car steering itself off the road. I made a post about it at the time, but when I waggled the wheel, it had a massive play in it and I assume my F was trying to steer at the rear...oen one side :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Here are the before and after laser alignment data sheets if anyone is interested.

I never changed any settings and it felt sweet on the way to the centre, so I was pretty surprised tha they needed adjustment. Just goes to show that you should get it checked after any major suspension work.

Before:



and after.

 

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Attempting this myself, managed to mess up the top ball joint, now putting it all back together, I've got a couple of questions
how can you torque up the top trailing arm bolt when you can't get a socket on it?
is there a special technique to locating the lower trailing arm bolt?

use of loctite?

Cheers
 

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I just did my offside rear. Right bugger to get the spline nut off (it happens) but an entry level 12t shop press easily removed the hub with light force (i.e you could have used a hammer to give you an idea) and the outer bearing removal from the assembly was just a lot of initial force of a good few ton to start but then easy to remove (definitely no hammer would have done that). To my surprise its a fairly large bearing and in my case significant damage to both bearing surfaces that I've not seen before. Still greased well at 103Klms. Just one of those things I guess.

Just used the hammer thought to give you an idea of effort on the fitment.
 
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