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rover_45
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Discussion Starter #1
As I've recently rejoined forum I hope this is in the right place.
Found both inner and outer cv boots split on left hand driveshaft and leaking while replacing front O2 sensor. Bought both kits, 1 from DMGRS and other from Rimmers along with new circlips and hub nut. I have loosened hub nut, fork damper bolt and bottom ball joint nut ready for doing job this weekend. Went to drain gearbox following Haynes manual but wasn't sure which box it was, the photos in Haynes didn't relate to looking at box. I got an old cat litter tray under and undid what looks like a drain plug which has a round bit sticking out a little bit smaller than where spanner went on and oil came out. The "plug" has a sprung ball bearing inside so I hope I've not broke anything. Rimmers confirmed, using vin no, that its an IB5 Ford box and said they don't stock the BOC 130M for it and I should try Ford dealers. I have a Ford car sales showroom on next street to ours so walked round there to ask about buying oil but they only have it in bulk for servicing there and don't sell it on. Halfords website don't have the Castrol or Comma 75w90 fully synthetic. Hoping to get some for this weekend and live nr Mansfield, Notts. Any suggestions? Will 2ltrs be enough taking into account which plug I drained from? It had a new clutch 2019 so the oil left inside shouldn't be too bad?
 

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'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
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I've just looked on Halfords website and it does list Comma fully synthetic 75W90 (Comma 75W90) in one litre size. It appears that Mansfield have it in stock, although the website insisted that it is not suitable my 2004 IB5 equipped ZR 105, so Halfords is clearly wrong about that (no surprise there then!).

Failing that, you have a branch of Euro Car Parts on the Millenium Business Park in Mansfield; they have MPM 75W90 Premium Synthetic available, but it is eyewateringly expensive.

NB: the IB5 is mounted at a forward facing angle in the MG Rover cars, and so the the oil level plug hole is slightly too low down - it will need filling to a little above the point where oil strts coming out of the level plug hole. MGR got around this by stating that it required an exact quantity from empty to achieve the correct level. However different published bulletins from MGR gave differing figures for the 'exact quantity', so I think have to be regarded as an unreliable measure. 2 litres may be sufficient, but figures quoted for IB5 capacity vary:

Ford manual and MG Rover Tecnical Bulletin - 2.8 litres from dry, 2.6 litres refill
Rover RAVE manual - 2.2 litres from dry, 2.0 litres for refill

It should be pointed out that the IB5 fitted to the MG Rover cars does not have a drain plug; the thing that you have removed is what is referred to in the Getrag-Ford manual for the IB5 as a detente adjustment bolt for the 'selector shaft interlock mechanism'. Lots of people have used this as a drain plug though, without serious issues ensuing, but there have been one or two who have retightened it too tight and ended up with a stiff gearchange.

According to the Ford manual for this gearbox, the oil should be removed via a suction pipe inserted into the filler hole. MG Rover never produced a workshop manual for the IB5, but a Technical Bulletin was issued that suggested the gearbox should be removed and the oil tipped out through the differential oil seal aperture. As the gearbox was regarded as 'filled-for-life' (most Rover recommended change intervals for other gearboxes were in excess of 100k miles), I imagine they didn't expect that many to live long enough to need an oil change, and by that kind of age and mileage far too many owners are running them on a non-servicing budget and simply run them until they break, then scrap them.
 

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rover_45
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Discussion Starter #3
I've just looked on Halfords website and it does list Comma fully synthetic 75W90 (Comma 75W90) in one litre size. It appears that Mansfield have it in stock, although the website insisted that it is not suitable my 2004 IB5 equipped ZR 105, so Halfords is clearly wrong about that (no surprise there then!).

Failing that, you have a branch of Euro Car Parts on the Millenium Business Park in Mansfield; they have MPM 75W90 Premium Synthetic available, but it is eyewateringly expensive.

NB: the IB5 is mounted at a forward facing angle in the MG Rover cars, and so the the oil level plug hole is slightly too low down - it will need filling to a little above the point where oil strts coming out of the level plug hole. MGR got around this by stating that it required an exact quantity from empty to achieve the correct level. However different published bulletins from MGR gave differing figures for the 'exact quantity', so I think have to be regarded as an unreliable measure. 2 litres may be sufficient, but figures quoted for IB5 capacity vary:

Ford manual and MG Rover Tecnical Bulletin - 2.8 litres from dry, 2.6 litres refill
Rover RAVE manual - 2.2 litres from dry, 2.0 litres for refill

It should be pointed out that the IB5 fitted to the MG Rover cars does not have a drain plug; the thing that you have removed is what is referred to in the Getrag-Ford manual for the IB5 as a detente adjustment bolt for the 'selector shaft interlock mechanism'. Lots of people have used this as a drain plug though, without serious issues ensuing, but there have been one or two who have retightened it too tight and ended up with a stiff gearchange.

According to the Ford manual for this gearbox, the oil should be removed via a suction pipe inserted into the filler hole. MG Rover never produced a workshop manual for the IB5, but a Technical Bulletin was issued that suggested the gearbox should be removed and the oil tipped out through the differential oil seal aperture. As the gearbox was regarded as 'filled-for-life' (most Rover recommended change intervals for other gearboxes were in excess of 100k miles), I imagine they didn't expect that many to live long enough to need an oil change, and by that kind of age and mileage far too many owners are running them on a non-servicing budget and simply run them until they break, then scrap them.
Thanks for your reply which is very helpful. We looked at Halfords website and saw it said their gearbox oil wasn't suitable so tried to look elsewhere. I should have known better. I used to have a 1960 Ford Consul and went there for a new battery, I intended to replace it with a battery from a big diesel engine so it would be good enough to turn the heavy engine. They refused to sell me one as it the car wasn't on their list. I went outside and then back in and asked for a battery for "my" peugeot something or other with a 2.5 ltr diesel engine and they sold me the battery.
Re the plug I took out, it wasn't that hard to undo so won't tighten it too much when I put it back in.
I looked at a link to one of the manuals you mention and it was in Dutch which I couldn't read.
Thanks again. The 45 is a 2005 by the way with over 125,000 on it. We've had it 11 years now. It doesn't cover much mileage now as my wife was the main driver as is working from home now indefinitely. We also have a 2003 75 cdt with 217,000 on it which we've had for 12 years.
 

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MG ZT, Rover 25
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...

NB: the IB5 is mounted at a forward facing angle in the MG Rover cars, and so the the oil level plug hole is slightly too low down - it will need filling to a little above the point where oil strts coming out of the level plug hole. MGR got around this by stating that it required an exact quantity from empty to achieve the correct level. However different published bulletins from MGR gave differing figures for the 'exact quantity', so I think have to be regarded as an unreliable measure. 2 litres may be sufficient, but figures quoted for IB5 capacity vary:

Ford manual and MG Rover Tecnical Bulletin - 2.8 litres from dry, 2.6 litres refill
Rover RAVE manual - 2.2 litres from dry, 2.0 litres for refill

It should be pointed out that the IB5 fitted to the MG Rover cars does not have a drain plug; the thing that you have removed is what is referred to in the Getrag-Ford manual for the IB5 as a detente adjustment bolt for the 'selector shaft interlock mechanism'. Lots of people have used this as a drain plug though, without serious issues ensuing, but there have been one or two who have retightened it too tight and ended up with a stiff gearchange.

According to the Ford manual for this gearbox, the oil should be removed via a suction pipe inserted into the filler hole. MG Rover never produced a workshop manual for the IB5, but a Technical Bulletin was issued that suggested the gearbox should be removed and the oil tipped out through the differential oil seal aperture. As the gearbox was regarded as 'filled-for-life' (most Rover recommended change intervals for other gearboxes were in excess of 100k miles), I imagine they didn't expect that many to live long enough to need an oil change, and by that kind of age and mileage far too many owners are running them on a non-servicing budget and simply run them until they break, then scrap them.
Useful info MITC - thanks. After I got it, I checked the level via the plug on my IB5 and noted it seemed overfilled, although I didn’t drain it down as it was running fine. Your post explains why. I expect to be doing a clutch over the next few years, so good to know this stuff. :)
 

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rover_45
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Discussion Starter #5
Got driveshaft out of hub no problem. Following Haynes manual to get driveshaft out of gearbox now. It says use a prybar, in my case a large flat screwdriver, to ease the shaft out of the gearbox keeping inner cv level so as not to damage the oilseal. The book makes it sound like a small shove with prybar should get shaft out but its not coming out at all. How much force can/should I use to get the inner circlip to allow shaft out of gearbox. Time for a cup of tea I think.
 

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rover_25
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276 Posts
Got driveshaft out of hub no problem. Following Haynes manual to get driveshaft out of gearbox now. It says use a prybar, in my case a large flat screwdriver, to ease the shaft out of the gearbox keeping inner cv level so as not to damage the oilseal. The book makes it sound like a small shove with prybar should get shaft out but its not coming out at all. How much force can/should I use to get the inner circlip to allow shaft out of gearbox. Time for a cup of tea I think.
sometimes not much, in my case i had to use a biiig pry bar and shock it, theyre held in with a cir clip
 
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