MG-Rover.org Forums banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I have an odd one that i hope you guys can help with. I have not open the boot for maybe about month (not sure if relevant), I have been driving during this time with no issues. I drove to work fine this morning, Upon leaving my work the boot sounded like it was bouncing as if open, it went over a bump and the boot open light flashed on, for a fraction of a second and the boot starting what sounded like plastic grinding-vibrations, i hit the brakes and immediately it stopped. this was repeated over the next bump before i pulled over. When i went to the back without opening it from the key, I opened physically with my hands and up it came (not locked even though it has been driving for at least 300-400miles with no issue). So when i got home I tried opening the boot with the key it opened fine, when i went to close it,it started grinding/vibration while it is doing this you can hear the relay clicking from the dashboard when i hit the fob release but the boot wont release until it stops vibrating,

Any idea what causing this?
I assume it is a mechanical problem as the relay is clicking when i press the button, so what should i be looking at or for to possibly replace?

Out of curiosity what would cause it to be electronically shut but physically open. I have seen on my old rover it can be physically shut but not electronically as i believe there is like a 10mm gap between the physically lock and where it meets the magnets to energize the lock.

Many Thanks Alex
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,184 Posts
It could be something as simple as the stoppers need adjusting. If you open the tailgate and look on the inside of it, you'll see two rubber stoppers, one of each side. These stoppers contact the body just above the rear light clusters when you close the boot. They came be adjusted by rotating them to make the boot sit closer to or further from the body when closed. How the tailgate sits when closed affects how the tailgate catch latches.
 

·
Registered
'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
Joined
·
9,306 Posts
My guess is that the tailgate wiring loom is damaged - the wires tend to chafe where they pass through the rubber boot between bodyshell and tailgate at top right of the tailgate. I would think the insulation is damaged on some of the wires and something is shorting on the tailgate release wire.

There is no actual lock on the facelift tailgate like there is on the Mk1. One the Mk1, the fob button only moves the barrel lock from locked to unlocked, and you open/unlatch the tailgate by pressing the button on the tailgate itself. When the Mk2 tailgate is shut and latched you have to use the fob button to electronically trip the latch. If the wiring is damaged and current is shorting from a powered wire to the tailgate solenoid wire, it will energise the solenoid and trip the latch. Once tripped, the tailgate will move due to the rubber seal having been compressed when it is shut, so you will have to physically shut the tailgate down again for the latch to re-engage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ok, i have done a small amount of play with the latch/ it seems to make the noise when i put a screwdriver in the manual release hole even with the boot open or when i shut the boot with a bit of force. If it is vibrating from the boot being released and you put the screwdriver in the hole it stops it vibrating, put the screwdriver back it vibrates but now it vibrates more and longer and will only stop by itself. I have just taken it out for a spin and if it is vibrating once it is closed the boot and you do not open once its stop its vibration maybe a minute later, it is not actually shut even though i cant open as i shut it and as i am driving over minor bumps the boot light is lighting up over every bump. when stopped the boot was now open even though i physically check and could not open it before driving. Interestingly i found out while the vehicle is locked, you can open and close the boot without out any issues or even the alarm going off. Seems once you do strike lucky without it vibrating when closed, it stays shut without any issues and no problem with the bumps. It seems to me what ever is vibrating does not allow it to latch properly and possible comes loose from bumps. Big bumps where suspension takes it's fine but the tiny bumps on an imperfect smooth road it has problems with. It was getting cold but I have to have a look at taking the cover off and see if i see anything out of the ordinary.

I am aware that the tailgate rubber boot is destroyed, I have a spare rear wiring harness but i dont have a rubber boot to use, Also it was a very tricky job getting the wire out in the first place, i am not sure its possible to get it back in even with the sunroof pipe removed as its extremely tight and we had to use a screw driver to push through the insert holes and it got stuck, and pushing is hard to control than pulling. if we could see the wire it be fine. is it possible to get the rubber boot on its own, at least then you could maybe, cut the wire in half or use the spare wires to weld etc.


Alex
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hi guys,

So after I just finshed troubling shooting the car, after the car was dead after a day (11.56v). The car has previously sat for 5 days of 0 degrees and started with no issues. I suspect it is the boot actuator that seems to open the boot as soon as you connect the battery without any command from me or key. I did also disconnect the single wiring to the boot sensor. So i suspect that it is shorting as "man in the car" had suggested only think i cant say for sure is whether it is the actuator, the wiring or a dodgy ground, I am no electrical expert but i assume if it is opening it has a good enough ground? I dont have the capability to test the actuator outside of the car so I can't rule it out. I am going to speak to mechanic on Tuesday to see if he wants to have a go at taking the damage wiring out and replace it or fix the damage. I have left the actuator disconnected so the boot does not open while driving again, I assume as the latch only holds the boot shut it should be fine to drive, just make sure it is shut and i open it manually with the screwdriver or the latch release that the spring pushes on to open?

Alex
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top