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Discussion Starter #1
hello please tell me whats the best engine oil for rover 623,
for my 620 i use total quartz 10w 40 but i heard 2.3 engine needs very expensive oil since its honda vtec engine,so they told me 5w 30 or 0w 20 or 10w30 at maximum whar do u think guyS?
Please advice me on brand and etcs..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i dont trust rimmer bros.. autodata tec doc and other programs claims i should use 5w 30 oild or 10w 30 or better
 

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2006 MG ZR +120 (HQM) 2004 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
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i dont trust rimmer bros.. autodata tec doc and other programs claims i should use 5w 30 oild or 10w 30 or better
The information on Rimmers website will have been taken from the Rover Group/MG Rover service manuals - likely to be a damn sight more accurate than other sources of information (and especially Autodata, which is well known to be somewhat erratic).

The Rover 600 series owners manual gives the same oil grade specification for all the Honda (and Rover) petrol engines fitted to the 600 - "Use any brand of 10W/40 engine oil meeting the minimum specification: RES.22.0LG4 or CCMC G4 or API SH".

10W/30 will be on the thin side when the engine is warm and 5W/30 will be a little thin at all engine temperatures - both may lead to increased wear under UK climate conditions (thinner oils may be needed in colder climates).

I would stick with 10W/40 semi synthetic; some Honda engined Rover 600s have clocked up some astounding mileages running with it :).
 

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mg_zt_t
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Use good brand 10-40 Semi-Synthetic unless you live in a very cold country with near winter conditions the year round.

No Rover 600s left the factory with the Honda VTEC engine. If yours has one then it has been fitted by a previous owner.

Some members here and on other web sites have fited the VTec to the 600s.

The 623 was the only DOHC ( Double Overhead Camshaft ) Honda Engine available for the 600 range.

Rover did of course fit their T-Series Turbocharged engine which does have the Double Overhead Camshafts.That was only fitted to the 620ti.

Good oil maintenance programmes are the way to get reliable high mileages from most engines. My son's 620ti which he uses mostly for his work travel has closing on a quarter of a million miles on it now. That's around 380,000 kms.

Too many modern car users in the UK do not check the fluid levels regularly and renew where necessary as recommended by all car manufacturers. AA/RAC and other car rescue services confirm this time and again. Their records do not lie.

Check and renew... best policy.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Use good brand 10-40 Semi-Synthetic unless you live in a very cold country with near winter conditions the year round.

No Rover 600s left the factory with the Honda VTEC engine. If yours has one then it has been fitted by a previous owner.

Some members here and on other web sites have fited the VTec to the 600s.

The 623 was the only DOHC ( Double Overhead Camshaft ) Honda Engine available for the 600 range.

Rover did of course fit their T-Series Turbocharged engine which does have the Double Overhead Camshafts.That was only fitted to the 620ti.

Good oil maintenance programmes are the way to get reliable high mileages from most engines. My son's 620ti which he uses mostly for his work travel has closing on a quarter of a million miles on it now. That's around 380,000 kms.

Too many modern car users in the UK do not check the fluid levels regularly and renew where necessary as recommended by all car manufacturers. AA/RAC and other car rescue services confirm this time and again. Their records do not lie.

Check and renew... best policy.
i am little bit Crazy so i think i will use genuine honda oil 5w 30 or 10w 30 10w 40 i find it not quality enough for my super car's engine i dont trust other brands a lot of fakes out there, my current rover 620 which have 131 hp and f20z1 engine i drive with normal oil 10w 40 yes, but this car is much higher class i mean the engine, do u think if i drive with genuine honda oil 10w 30 or 5w 30 will harm the engine ? this is what auto data gives me as first reccomendations... my engine is like brand new and previous owner have driven car only with 5w 30 as far as i know.. this is what i found into my car oil from castrol 5w 30.
 

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Oh dear - another owner who has already made up his mind and is seems only interested in listening to people who tell him what he wants to hear :banghead:.
 

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mg_zt_t
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Oh dear - another owner who has already made up his mind and is seems only interested in listening to people who tell him what he wants to hear :banghead:.
I wonder which Oil the Honda Motor Company of Japan recommend for that or any of their engines.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Oh dear - another owner who has already made up his mind and is seems only interested in listening to people who tell him what he wants to hear :banghead:.
I have not made up my mind, i simply dont want to brake my ENGINE because i want to drive my car for at least 10 years more, i changed most parts with Brand new OEM original ones, so they cost me lots of money and lots of labour, and i am into in a process of paiting my car as well and i will remove rusty panels too so i spended a lot of money, so i dont want my engine to be gone, and since it was all of his life with 5w 30 i guess its better to stay with that oil instead of going to 10w 40, which i think for that like brand new engine wont be any good, what will happen if i use only 5w 30 engine oil made by honda genuine do you think it will make my engine worse - compared to the current castrol which previous owner used most of the car's life.
 

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I made a big long post explaining about how oil grades worked but the forum ate it.

In short use the right grade oil which in UK climates is 10w40 oil.
 

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I have a friend who is a PhD in chemistry. He works for a very large multinational company which formulates the additive packages (anti - wear, oxidation, acidity, frothing etc, etc) for very many makes of oil.

I once asked him which brand was best. His reply was, "Whichever big-name brand is on special offer at the supermarket".

I actually ignored that advice; I like to stick with the same brand as I'm already using and will pay to do that.

When ever I see debates about makes or grades, the question I ask is "Where is your data?".
 

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mg_zt_t
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His reply was, "Whichever big-name brand is on special offer
From 1970 onwards, that has always been my approach to the oil I use in my cars and Motor Cycles. Top brands and best offers.

Prior to 1970, I always used CASTROL simply because the factory works Honda Grand Prix Motor Cycles used it. Some of their smaller capacity Grand Prix Bike engines back then revved to 25,000 rpm! In the 1960s! Saw them in action.

So, CASTROL good enough for those high performance machines, good enough for my motor cycles and cars which reached peaked revs below 10,000 and 6,500 rpm respectively.

... :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I made a big long post explaining about how oil grades worked but the forum ate it.

In short use the right grade oil which in UK climates is 10w40 oil.
hi first i dont live in the uk,
2nd
about big brands we have Tons of fakes in our market, so i dont trust them, its very hard to get a genuine one if u manage to find out thats genuine,
so
i would preffer either a honda or amsoil,10w 30
ot 5w 30, since here is extremely cold in the winter,
after how much miles/km i should change my oil ,what do u think of amsoil signature series they give warranty up to 25,000k miles do u think i can drive it for 10-4 k miles for city driving ?
Or i can kill my engine.
 

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mg_zt_t
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Basic physics.

City driving WILL accelerate engine wear in any car with ANY oil. Other components will suffer premature wear too... clutch, brake systems etc.

An engine with 100,000km higher average speed "motorway" kilometers/miles will often have less wear than one with 40,000km/miles "City"of repeated stop-start driving and short journeys. Particularly lots of short journeys where the engine does not get fully warmed up in cold weather.

How warm are the summers in your country?

The decision is for you based on the conditions and use of your car. As it should be for any car user. There are usually reasons why some car users are often "unlucky" with all their cars. Usually it means they do not do the routine checks every manufacturer recommends. Many rarely open their bonnets unless something is wrong. Guess what...

Car rescue service statistics show some car users do NOT know where the bonnet release is on their car.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Basic physics.

City driving WILL accelerate engine wear in any car with ANY oil. Other components will suffer premature wear too... clutch, brake systems etc.

An engine with 100,000km higher average speed "motorway" kilometers/miles will often have less wear than one with 40,000km/miles "City"of repeated stop-start driving and short journeys. Particularly lots of short journeys where the engine does not get fully warmed up in cold weather.

How warm are the summers in your country?

The decision is for you based on the conditions and use of your car. As it should be for any car user. There are usually reasons why some car users are often "unlucky" with all their cars. Usually it means they do not do the routine checks every manufacturer recommends. Many rarely open their bonnets unless something is wrong. Guess what...

Car rescue service statistics show some car users do NOT know where the bonnet release is on their car.
hi i have driven my 620 rover for 10 years i still drive it in daily basis ,since i used cheap total oil 10w 40 i change it twice per year, for 10 years i used mobile 1,castrol, vaico, motul and other brands, i never had any isssues with my car engine i have non vtec engine normal f20z1 131hp 2litres petrol, car is regularly serviced i know where my bonnet is i had other issues with alternator,starter and other things but never with oil i mean i change my oil differently approximately 7-k miles or little bit more . here where i live its extremely cold lets say -15-20 degrees but every winter is different. my current car is driven in lpg it have probably more than 500,000miles.
 

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rover_600
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Down to -20 deg C it's 10/40 oil, that's what the manual says (see attached pic) for all the petrol engined R600.


I guess if you regularly get temps less than -20 then perhaps a 5/40 blend might be used, it would be thinner at the lower temps.
Global warming should see off really cold temps in Europe in a few years...



But 10/40 and just change it every 4k miles, it's what I do. It is starting to pay dividends, the oil didn't blacken until I'd done about 400 miles after I changed it last time, whereas the first couple of times it blackened straight away (mine is a diesel though).



I use any old stuff the local motor factor has, Comma, GM, as long as it's 10/40 semi-synth it'll be fine. I am not on a racetrack.


yours
Stu
 

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GM, as long as it's 10/40 semi-synth it'll be fine. yours Stu

Yes, I've been using GM 10/40 SS for the last 14 years with my 620 petrol. For sure, that's not actually made by GM, but by some big-name oil company and then packaged for GM who sell it at a very competitive price :smile:.
 
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