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rover_600
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Just Run In?

Greetings,

My red Rover 600ti has just turned up 150,000 miles, on the M40 about 2 miles north of Stokenchurch. Still going well apart from a popping noise / misfire at tick over which I have not been able to cure, so far, but perhaps the better weather is coming and I will be able to find the problem.

Checking the howmanyleft site it seems that there are only 79 Rover 600ti on the road plus many on SORN.


Best wishes, Geoffrey.
 

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A pre-MoT checkover found that the boot on one of the upper balljoints at the front of my 620 needs replacing. It's just one big ticket item after another on these cars...:wink:.
 

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mg_zt_t
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Discussion Starter #1,464
I used my 620ti to collect FIVE MGF Alloy Wheels from City Powder Coaters

I used my 620ti to collect FIVE MGF Alloy Wheels from City Powder Coaters in Digbeth B'Ham The place is surrounded by roadworks and annoying diversions. Good job I tool my SATNAV for alternatives. Nightmare road works ...

I also had some metal parts for 620ti / MG ZT ~ coolant tubes, dip stick tube and engine mounts to be stripped and powder coated in Black Gloss. Delighted with the wheels and parts. Nicely finished at really reasonable cost. Look better than new.

I also used two cheap CarCams ~ one front and one rear ~ Each cost less than £8 posted plus another two fivers for Micro Memory Cards ~ for the 120 mile round trip up and down the M5.

Just viewed some of the recordings of the trip. For that little outlay, the quality of the footage is terrific even during heavy rain and massive spray from truck wheels.....:scary:..:scary: Blinding stuff!
 

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Ignition leads

Today I took off the ignition leads, gave them a close visual inspection and tested their resistance. I'm sure these are the original 1998 leads and they were made by Bougicord. Visually, they looked in perfect condition. The resistance ranged from about 10kOhm for the longest one down to about 6k for the shortest. I had the plugs out too and they all looked very good. So, the leads may be 21 years old, but I see no reason to change them.


Car passed it's MoT a couple of days ago, having replaced the one rubber boot; no advisories :smile:.



B
 

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Thanks. The only small fly in the ointment is that I need to put in a new condenser for the air-con. I've managed to find a used one that's in very good condition (leaked-tested it), just waiting for the weather to warm up a few degrees.
 

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Can anyone confirm for me how much coolant remains in the engine even after the engine drain plug has been removed? And if you reverse flush by taking the thermostat out, you're left with tap water in there?


B
 

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Rover Lifestyle
Rover 200 Rover 600
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By written data coolant capacity is 6.5 litres while change is only 2.7 litres. But, few weeks ago when my coolant was changed, it took some 5.5 litres to fill it up again.
 

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Is it the case that if you drain just by opening the rad tap, then the re-fill volume is 2.7L, but if you remove the plug on the block then you get more like 5+litres out? When I took out the plug on the block there was a real torrent of liquid. I actually "captured" a total of about 4.5L, but quite a drop got spilled.



I've changed it before but I cannot find the notes I made.
 

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I always try keep notes...but when I look back at them the important stuff is often missing. But it's only a few days since I drained it down, and with the heater set in the 'on' position, and the rad cap off, I drained down the rad and then drained the block. The latter has a plug which seals a port which is about 14mm diameter, and when that came free, there was quite a head of liquid behind the jet of coolant that came out.
 

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rover_600
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Several days of work

Hi,

First job was to glue the material back onto the door card with copydex, to do that I removed the card so that gravity could help and while the glue dried I lubricated the window mechanism and swept out the inside of the car.

In the afternoon it was off to have the engine steam cleaned so that I can see where the oil leaks are coming from. Then a pre MOT check on every thing I could think of followed by a wash and polish, looked very nice afterwards, I don't clean it often enough.

Then for the MOT, passed with no advisories.

Next job is to look for the fuel pump relay / controller and try some preventative maintenance.

Best wishes, Geoffrey.
 

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Rear discs and pads changed.
Every bolt put up a fight.
Need to do a bit of welding on the rear sill

Sent from my Plus E using Tapatalk
 

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Every bolt put up a fight.
That's OK, as long as they all eventually surrended :).
I think I should replace the links on the front anti roll bar before it get any colder. I bought them in some weeks ago after an MoT advisory. Never done that job before, but there's a good YouTube vid doing it on an Accord, which is identical.
 

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So today I discovered some welding required
And the thinner fuel pipe running underneath is weeping. (Did a temp repair)
Thinking of changing the fuel pipes for plastic one's.
Anyone know the difference in diameter needed.

Vroom vroom.

Sent from my Plus E using Tapatalk
 

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Car has a mere 120,000 miles

Ordered both sides for £53.
Seems straight forward enough.
Pop ball join then undo 2 fasteners in the engine bay and remove the complete unit.

Sent from my Plus E using Tapatalk
 
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