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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All.
I've just noticed that my '10 TF driver's door lock doesn't allow the key fully into the barrel to manually lock/unlock the door. it's also not as perpendicular as (say) the boot lock; which does allow the key to work as expected. I'm sure it's worked properly in the dim, distant past tho'.
I have the key number but don't have the EKA code (yet).
I'm a bit concerned 'cos I've 'enjoyed' pass door lock/scu relay problems with a prev TF and I'm realising that my 'get out of jail' solutions are severely compromised if scu problems repeat themselves on this TF (likely on all Pektron TF's, I gather)
Has anybody any experiences to pass on? I don't mind having a go at lock barrel removal but I don't have a clue what to do next - other than order a brand-new a brand new barrel 'keyed' to my lock number for big bucks, perhaps.
Is there such a specialist as a TF locksmith that can help (please) I wonder?
 

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From your explanantion I assume that lock worked properly before, but now you cannot insert key properly. Problems with these locks (speaking from experience with Rover 200 and Rover 600) are that dirt is accumulated within lock due to lack of use. This might be the issue you are experiencing with your lock with key going in but not completly.
Solution for this is patience, and a lot of WD 40 sprayed time after time, and through several days, in order for it to penetrate through dirt and eventualy remove it from the lock.
You might be lucky and dirt removal can be instant, but patience is needed and do not expect wonders immediately.
After some time you can try to see if you can put your key in the lock all the way in. If you do, carefully try to rotate it to see if you will have success.
Also very important information is - do you suffer from very cold temperatures at your area? If you do, then blockage can be from ice as well, but in that case extra patience is needed, not to brake something.
 

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rover_75
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My 04 115 plays up every now and again. ( more now than again at mo)



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Brill, thanks for replies. Trying WD40...but it all felt very 'solid' :-(
I'll report back later...
 

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1995 MGF Mpi
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I was having issues getting the key into the door lock of my Discovery 1 and a MGF-owning locksmith friend recommended the use of Tri-Flow lubricant, Industrial Lubrication with PTFE | Tri-Flow - high performance penetrating lubricant, which I found at a local bicycle shop. I used it and instantly the lock started working like new again.

I had always had a bit of a problem getting the key into the door lock on my F, so I gave the Tri-Flow lubricant a try on the F's door lock and it too is now working much better, The key goes in and out easily and the movement of the lock barrel is much improved.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hmm...I've already tried penetrating oil and the WD40 doesn't get it past a very physical barrier. It's as if the inside of the lock has fallen in.
Is anyone aware of a cheaper alternative than a new lock? Can a used lock be made to fit the key, I wonder?
Perhaps a used lock with it's own key might be a temporary answer to the lock-out threat?
(It's uncomfortably 'bodgy. I'm struggling a bit here with the best way to fix it.)
 

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1995 MGF Mpi
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The lock barrel goes into a slot in the door handle assembly and held in place with a metal spring clip. My first guess would be that the lock barrel is okay and that a piece of the plastic that the barrel fits into has broken. The only way to find out is to take the door card off and look up inside at the door handle with the aid of a mirror and flashlight.
134578
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow thanks mowog73! Now that's a useful pic and good advice :)!
I've now got a used TF lock + key coming in the post (and we're hoping that there's no difference between the Chinese and the MGR units)
Yep, I'd be happier to keep my original lock and perhaps change the plastic door pull unit - but now I've 'seen' a bit more of the problem I'm getting almost enthused :cool:
I've spoken to auto-locksmiths who'd be happy to replace all the locks with new, to MG professionals who could supply a lock-set and advised the need for re-programming (!) and those 'used' suppliers who said not, since it's a mechanical unit.
Again, I'll update later...
 

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Discussion Starter #9

This enthuses me further - a post from 12 years ago by Martin-K :)
 

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I also have a Chinese MG TF, and had the exact same problem. Removed the lock from inside, gave it a thorough clean with key exercising tumblers. Dried it off and gave it a good spray of PTFE lubricant. Still fine a year latter, Use it every now and again to stop it gumming up.
 

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Hi ArntyR, Should also have mentioned. As Chinese MG TF superlock on single remote click I was also concerned as you are over Pecktron problems. At the same time as the lock was out I sent the SCU to Technozen for 5 new (reliable) relays and reprogramming as I wanted it. Returned next day al done for £50. No more fears of SCU locking me out permanently.... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep - viva the power of a sharing, caring forum...
Markvrs, at risk of being an anorak I gather that MGFs needed 2 remote clicks to superlock but all the Pektron TFs underwent a peculiar design 'wisdom' (probably insurance-based?) to double/superlock in one: From memory, something to do with effectively locking it with the hood down so's it couldn't be stolen(!) I reckon it was a design conceived on April 1st :)
Yes, my last TF locked me out one night in Tescos but I managed to key the boot open to open the front and stop the horns with the battery kill switch. Somehow this unsuperlocked the driver door and I used the key to get in and drive it home.
Later I smashed off the suspected pass lock inside the door and replaced it with used. Lock still 'machine-gunned' so Technozen replaced all the relays. Yep, most cost-effective to replace all of them, even tho' only one locks us out.
I think I went at it the wrong way around but I didn't know about superlock at the time. I just thought the lock was knackered.
So, welcome to the Pektron Superlock Hysteria club; I thought I was the only member :) Like you, when I get this sorted I'm going to ask Technozen to do his 'relays magic' and also find my EKA code just in case...
A massive thanks to everybody; I'm actually looking forward to sorting it now I'm armed with so much useful info :)
Happy + smug.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yay,,,carbon copy of what markvrs said - except he made it sound easy-peasy...
It's all working again; thanks again to everyone. :)
(phew don't wanna do that again. Gonna get the scu 'Technozed' asap, too)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Closure...:) Scu has been Technozened tho' this wasn't w/out some difficulty.

A previous owner seems to have taken a 'normal' Torx tool to the two scu retaining screws rather than the 5-point hollow Torx that's needed, resulting in a squashed central locator pin and a rounded indent. Presumably more force was needed to grip and turn.and I think s/he abandoned the task here. I bent up the 'tamper proof' tabs at each end of the holding cradle and turned the screws crudely with pliers, replacing these screws with something more sensibly
134608
socket-related later.
134609


Again many thanks for all the suggestions, pics and experiences which made an 'on-yer-own' daunting task (almost) enjoyable - but certainly do-able.
 
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