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mg_tf
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Discussion Starter #1
Please help: I am in the process of removing the head after a second HGF.

How does one stop the engine from turning in order to loosen the bolt securing the pulley to the crankshaft?

Also: Is it really necessary to remove the back camshaft cover before one can lift the head? To do this one needs to remove the camshaft gears and I am trying to avoid that.
 

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mg_tf
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Discussion Starter #2
I realise that I am sounding quite a novice - but need to lift the head today in order to have a specialist analysis done on the work required to fix the problem.

I know there is somewhere one could push a rod in - possibly on the gearbox(?) - that will prevent the engine from turning, but as I have never done this on my MG, can somebody maybe just direct me where to look for?
 

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Hi William.... There is a much easier way :D

When you are about to take it off, put the car in 4th / 5th gear and get a mate to lean on the brake pedal. Then use a breaker bar / ratchet extension and go for it :broon:
 

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I realise that I am sounding quite a novice - but need to lift the head today in order to have a specialist analysis done on the work required to fix the problem.

I know there is somewhere one could push a rod in - possibly on the gearbox(?) - that will prevent the engine from turning, but as I have never done this on my MG, can somebody maybe just direct me where to look for?
There is a special tool to lock the crank but it is possible to do it without. Remove the starter motor and you will see the ring gear you nedd to wedge something in there against the teeth to stop the flywheel turning. Be careful that whatever you use does not fall in or damage the teeth. A impact wrench on the nut for the pulley also helps as the shock action makes it easier to undo. If you have help get the other person to hold a lrge screwdriver or crowbar against the flywheel.
 

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mg_tf
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, guys. The rear of the car is now on tressles and both rear wheels removed. I have a 'long-armed' no. 22 ring-spanner that I purchased yesterday specifically for this purpose and hopefully this will provide sufficient leverage to loosen the bolt - maybe with a bit of a initial-bash with the aid of a rubber mallet. Just need to block that engine from moving and it seems that the only solution will be to remove the starter motor under the circumstances..
 

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other_manufacturer
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It's worth noting that getting new bolts for the pulleys can be a bit of a pain, so worth ordering new ones now. There was a recommendation to replace earlier ones so now would be an idea time to do it and make sure that it's been done.
 

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Thanks, guys. The rear of the car is now on tressles and both rear wheels removed. I have a 'long-armed' no. 22 ring-spanner that I purchased yesterday specifically for this purpose and hopefully this will provide sufficient leverage to loosen the bolt - maybe with a bit of a initial-bash with the aid of a rubber mallet. Just need to block that engine from moving and it seems that the only solution will be to remove the starter motor under the circumstances..
Hi Willem, did you not see my earlier post?

4th gear and mates foot / brick on foot brake - job done.
 

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Whereabouts are you? There may be someone local who could lend you a flywheel locking tool or pop round with an impact gun quick :broon:
 

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Think he said South Africa, do not think our travelling mechanics will go that far!
I'm sure one of them would.... I suspect the milage would be pretty expensive though.

I would recommend Dave / Keighleigh.... I'm pretty sure the miliage was less than the cost of fuel alone.
 

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mg_tf
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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks guys for all your input! Cape Town (Hout Bay) to be more specific.

You know what? I found yet another way of dealing with this: One can actually see the flywheel's ring gear if you look inbetween the engine block and the RH cv joint/drive shaft as it exits from the gear box (you will have to lie on your back underneath the car). All I did was to position a mid-sized flathead screwdriver inbetween the gears and that stopped the crank from moving and allowing me with a few light bashes with a rubber mallet to release the pulley bolt from its initial grip.

Remember: To loosen the pulley bolt will force the engine to turn unti-clockwise. With the screwdriver positioned as described above, it pressed against the engin block wall to stop the ring gear from moving. I don't think this proceedure will work when fitting the pulley bolt again.
 

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Thanks guys for all your input! Cape Town (Hout Bay) to be more specific.

You know what? I found yet another way of dealing with this: One can actually see the flywheel's ring gear if you look inbetween the engine block and the RH cv joint/drive shaft as it exits from the gear box (you will have to lie on your back underneath the car). All I did was to position a mid-sized flathead screwdriver inbetween the gears and that stopped the crank from moving and allowing me with a few light bashes with a rubber mallet to release the pulley bolt from its initial grip.

Remember: To loosen the pulley bolt will force the engine to turn unti-clockwise. With the screwdriver positioned as described above, it pressed against the engin block wall to stop the ring gear from moving. I don't think this proceedure will work when fitting the pulley bolt again.
Have relatives in Port Elizabeth. I did know about the gap you used but it is in a awkward place but then everything is on a MGF. Good luck with you ongoing works.
 

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Also: Is it really necessary to remove the back camshaft cover before one can lift the head? To do this one needs to remove the camshaft gears and I am trying to avoid that.
Yes, you do need to remove the cam gears. The backing timing cover stays in situ, but is fastened to the head with 2x 8mm (IIRC) bolts that sit behind the cam gears.
 

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mg_tf
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Discussion Starter #16
Yes, you do need to remove the cam gears. The backing timing cover stays in situ, but is fastened to the head with 2x 8mm (IIRC) bolts that sit behind the cam gears.
I managed to lift the head without having to remove the back cover first - thus avoiding to remove the cam gears whilst in the confined space of the engine bay. There is only one no. 8 bolt at the LH bottom back of this cover (hidden away from normal view but quite accessable) securing the back cover to the engine block that needs to be removed.

This done, the head lifted easily and with the help of my gardener we were able to remove it from the engine bay and put on wooden block aside the car. Then it much easier to remove the cam gears and the back cover. (I must mention also that I did not remove the cam box from the head - but kept it secured to the head (and intact) when removing the head from the engine).
 

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160 TF Head removal

New to the forum. I am having problems similar to Willem Odendaal. my mechanic is doing head gasket replacement on my TF after HGF. I want to know the sequence for putting the head together again. Perhaps someone has a manual, or visual sequence. My mechanic seems to be unsure of how to exactly fit the VVT. (Not a good sign perhaps) Any sources.
 

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mg_tf
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Thanks guys for all your input! Cape Town (Hout Bay) to be more specific.

You know what? I found yet another way of dealing with this: One can actually see the flywheel's ring gear if you look inbetween the engine block and the RH cv joint/drive shaft as it exits from the gear box (you will have to lie on your back underneath the car). All I did was to position a mid-sized flathead screwdriver inbetween the gears and that stopped the crank from moving and allowing me with a few light bashes with a rubber mallet to release the pulley bolt from its initial grip.

Remember: To loosen the pulley bolt will force the engine to turn unti-clockwise. With the screwdriver positioned as described above, it pressed against the engin block wall to stop the ring gear from moving. I don't think this proceedure will work when fitting the pulley bolt again.
Hey Willem. Not sure if you're still around on this forum, but just wanted to thank you for this solution. I'd tried so many of the options suggested on this & other sites to no avail. I was genuinely on the verge of giving up when I stumbled across your solution and the nut was off in literally a couple of minutes. So simple yet so effective. Thanks again.
 
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