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mg_zr
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great guide

Thanks for this guide some of these I've not thought of. Going to check my Zr first thing in the morning only had my Zr 2 weeks and loving it.
 

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rover_25
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40 Posts
head gasket

hi ive just bought a l series 25 it seems quite sluggish until i hit 4th gear at 48mph then i takes off.i change gear when its near 3k and the engine noise is about the right level. also im losing coolant somewhere no mayo in oil and no oil in expansion tank.i havent noticed any smoke or leaks around engine. and the heating is weird the top 2 vents facing the windscreen seem to blow hot all the time but i cant get any heat from the main vents. the nob for hot cold very stiff so i took off and tried to turn with pliers whic was surprisingly tough.any help much appreciated thank james
 

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Sounds like classic MAF sensor failure. If pre 2004 unplug the MAF sensor and take it for a drive.

If low rev power returns but the revs are limited to about 3800rpm then you've found the fault.
 

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rover_25
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nice one il give that a go the maf is the air sensor just after airbox i hope.ive got heater to work now the metal pins are soo stiff that the plastic nobs dont have enough to turn so resorted to using pliers still have coolant dissapeering somewhere and a temp gauge going up to 3/4 so gota sort that now
 

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L series cambelt.

Can anyone tell me the change of L series diesel engines from `early`to `late`? Any engine numbers please, I have a Mark 2 ZS 115 , when should I change the cambelt. These belts frighten me rigid, so much expense if they break!!
Cheers.
 

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rover_200_95_99
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110 Posts
temp stat?

would i be correct i thinking that the coolant thermostat on my T plate 2.0 tdi is on the front of the engine where the top hose exits the block ?

and would need the four 10m bolts removing to remove its housing are there any pitfalls when doing this ?

also is there a coolant bleed screw as the anti-freeze is very weak ?

its taking 4-5miles to warm up and its not got below zero yet !
 

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They do take a while to warm up - 4-5 miles is a good time, trust me. There is no coolent bleed screw as such. To drop the lot, undo bottom rad hose - to drain just a little, undo the header tank return with engine running and coolent cold. The level in the tank will drop, top it up with neat antifreeze; thats what I've done on my Rover Dervs with good results.
 

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yeah does take a good while to warm up so dont worry about that too much.

if you want to change coolant heres the method i used.

heater on hot, bottom hose off, expansion tank cap off, let coolant drain into a bowl. have a cuppa it could take a while. when you come back replace the bottom hose and SLOWLY fill with OAT coolant (7 litres capacity)

let it idle for a few mins, take it for a drive at low revs taking it easy till it gets to operating temp, let it cool completely and check the level. top up as needed then check after the next good run. i needed 2 top ups.

dont worry about bleeding, its a self bleeding system. just take your time refilling and you shouldnt have a problem
 

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Just out of interest has anyone else blanked off their egr valve? i have but the car has been standing most of the last 2 months since i got it off my brother, i have done a full service as well and seem to have cured alot of the smoking problems it had.. so i just wondered how other people had got on?
 

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Done all of mine, to keep the inlet tract clean not to cure smoking. I would say your full service probably had more effect on smoke than doing away with EGR.

:2c:
 

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If you're after a ZT, it uses the 2 litre BMW diesel engine, I'd maybe join a BMW forum and ask what to look for. :)

The engine was used in the 3 series (E46 I think) and in the Freelander TD4.

....I'll be the first to admit I know nothing about that engine. :lol:
Great guide. Which engine do I have in my Streetwise diesel? Phil
 

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You have a Rover L-Series 20T2N turbo intercooled 2L diesel engine, with a VP30 injection pump.

Get yourself some SDI injectors and prepare to smile lots, torque is yours for the taking... :D
 

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This a great guide. There a couple of things I would add;
1) Look closely at the fuel primer bulb for collapse and perishing. This is in the fuel line where it enters the engine bay prior to the fuel filter. Those cars that have it, if it looks fine, then leave it and enjoy the benefits of easier fuel filter servicing. If it doesn't look fine, be prepared to remove it and bridge the fuel pipe.
2) On the injector leak-off pipework, don't forget the one back to the injection pump from the spill-rail. As well as being perished (modern bio-rubbish) it quite often gets grief from the injector pipes chaffing it where the clipping has failed.

My point of note is that 4 years or 48,000miles is enough for any of the cambelts/FIP drivebelts on any age L-series. Just because Rover did not retro-specify the 7-year rule back down to 4-year rule does not make the earlier cambelt systems any better. I know, because I was the first Engineer to stand alongside development L-series engines with a stroboscope in the darkened test-cells, for oinths on end, trying to get the best software compromise for belt-load on the Job3 (Freelander) engine. When I couldn't work-out why the Job3 engine was so much worse, I went back to basics and looked at both Job1 (600SDi) and Job2 (200/400) under the same conditions, and realised that the belts were flapping just as badly, if not worse. I change my belts at 4 year intervals, the L-series is an aggressive little unit on its cam-drive.

The breather system was always an achilles heal, and anything that separates the oil from the air, before it goes back into the "elephants trunk" compressor intake, is a brilliant way to stave-off compressor damage.
 

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Yes, 220/420/620/25/45/zr/zs/streetwise/freelander (pre TD4) diesels all use the L series engine. Also the Honda Civic and Accord too for several years.
 
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