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Discussion Starter #1
I thought id put this guide together for people thinking about doing this.
First syptoms of solenoid failure is "Tractor Syndrome" experience, were the car becomes very noisy and a tappety noise from the engine can be heard. When the diagnostic equipment is applied, the fault codes p1222 or p0216 can be observed.
So i received my replacement solenoid today, its comes as a kit with solenoid, and cable joints, to join into the original cable:







So i will be hopefully fitting this tomorrow. Will hopefully get some pictures during installation.
 

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mg_zr
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timing solenoid

hi mad. i would like to know if you got diesel knock all the time with a faulty solenoid, i have been getting a louder noise when accelerating happens for only couple of seconds also seems more likely to do it between 1800-2300 revs. if i unplug maf sensor there is no noise just normal performance untill about 3700 rpm. also seems a slight hesitation when maf connected but does not do it all the time. a new bosch maf has been fitted so i dont think its maf related. car is a 2003 zr td and starts perfectly, any info would be great. chris
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I get the tractor syndrome every so often, i dont get it all the time. It seems to do it more when the car is under load, towing, driving abit harder, etc. Your syptoms seem more maf related. I would go and get the codes read on the car and see if anything comes up. Were did you get the maf from?
 

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i got maf from a seller on ebay was posted as a genuine bosch item. i did some research and found that a vauxhall 1.7 astra diesel sensor was the same as a zr diesel one, but in a different housing i checked part numbers on both and they were the same so just changed the sensor only. not been able to get codes read as of yet, garage i normally use does not have anything that will work on my car. local place that can do it want £60 to read and clear codes and say i will need to do it twice to see what codes return. same ebay seller had rover-mg maf for £130 vauxhall one was £70 posted, checked out his feedback and all seemed ok. dont think its a copy part as all looks exactly same as original bosch maf and came in a hologram marked bosch box also voltage readouts from maf seemed all ok, hope your solenoid replacement goes ok. i will read your report with interest, thanks for your help. chris
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Only thing i would try next would be the egr as this can cause problems at lower rpms. Trying disconnecting it and see if it changes
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
So finally got onto this today. Just a word of warning, if your not confident about stripping the car down abit then this is probably not for you.

Car - 2001 rover 45 2.0td 92k miles with roughly a 125bhp map

So started like this:


This is the item in question that needs to be changed:



Started to strip the car down, first was the radiator, fan assembly and intercooler pipes.




Now you may get away with leaving the radiator in, but i decided to give myself some room, and for pictures as well.

Then intake manifold, injector pipes, and disconnect the glow plug wire. Disconnect the fuel pump and lift needle sensor connection. Disconnect water pipe that runs along the front of the block, and fold it down under the wiring loom.




Now we have full access to the pump. As you can see from the picture of the solenoid above, there is a plate and mount blocking access to the solenoid itself, so these need to be removed. You can see in the picture below, the black mount and goldish mounting plate.




There are 3 allen sized bolts and 1 torx bolt holding the pump to the goldish plate. Then 2 main bolts at the bottom, which are nut (14mm) and bolted (10mm). Then remove the black mount which are just 4 10mm bolts, this will then let both parts be removed.


So this then gives access to the solenoid. It is held in by 2 torx screws. Remove the solenoid which will probably need prising out. Remember to remove the old rubber washer that should be on the very end of the metal plunger.





Cut the 2 wires, trying to remember which one is connected to which (Im not sure if polarity is important but i'd air of the side of caution). Next i attached the new solenoid. Now there is 2 connectors that come with the kit, but i decided to solder mine, and then apply heatsink. Also remeber the heat resistant cover should go on as well to protect the cables.



So new solenoid connected, it can then be placed back into the pump.





So put it all back together. Refill the water system, connected everything back up, and get her started.



http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e289/mrkstrlng/?action=view&current=100_0835.mp4

Im quite pleased, seems to be running abit smoother, and no tractor syndrome as yet. It took me about 3 hrs with take pictures, so id say 2 and half could be possible. I will check the codes on monday, and see if the timing fault code has cleared. Other than that, power seems about the same, and i hope it continues its good mpg numbers.

Hope this is any help to anyone interested, and if ive missed something or you have a question about something then just ask.
 

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mg_zr
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timing solenoid

very clear and precise how to, should make replacement easyier for others. going to try getting codes read on mine, not 100% certain solenoid is cause of diesel knock on my car i am wondering if map sensor could be the problem, as mainly happens at 1800-2200 revs car then sounds like maestro or montego diesel no loss of performance tho. also if maf unplugged does not do it at all, not so good performance and about 3700 revs max.
 

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I think i could be very tempted for he solenoid itself.... will be in touch about it later via pm...

will wait to obviously make sure the codes are cleared etc :)

excellent write up too. (when Matt did my fuel pump he left the rad in place so there should be plenty of space for just the solenoid)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Prices are round £115 posted, maybe a group buy could be cheaper. Yes im pretty sure it could be done without removing the radiator
 
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