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classic_rover
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello

The TC light is lit and the local ex-Rover garage says they found and cleared a fault with the actuator motor which tested OK.

The light remains lit so they want to change everything in the system looking for the fault. :sick:

I've searched and have checked the TC switch for faults, the TC actuator cable, the cables to the front wheels and finally the ABS unit for water ingress.

Any ideas? I've thought the TC throttle butterfly should stall the car if activated by hand but it does nothing, has it come apart inside?

Thanks.
 

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classic_rover
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Discussion Starter #4
Today I disasembled the air box to look at the throttle butterfly. There was pale brown sludge in the air box pipe and the butterfly is working.

Any ideas? Please help guys...
 

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classic_rover
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all the help. *cough cough* Seems it is the TC actuator that has an intermittant fault.
 

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rover_75
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don't think many ppl have TC, so i am not sure most of the "In the Know Ppl" know much about the system, Also not read any thing about things going wrong either,

Good luck any way!
 

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rover_75
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So far T4 has come up with secondary throttle control not properly adjusted. Connectors 501 & 517 suspect. These are the connectors between the front OS ABS cable and the ABS modulator unit. They can get water ingress but mine seem fine. Big Bob I need help too. T4 also comes up with actuator servo motor, which I believe is under the secondary throttle actuator. How do you test it?
 

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Same problem here.

During the past 2 years it happened 2-3 times.. traction light stays on, I restart the car, and it is all OK.

Since this morning, the light just stays on, no matter how many times I restart the engine.. it is stuck now..

Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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classic_rover
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Discussion Starter #10
Well after all the flooding we needed a new ECU (£418+VAT:guns4: ) and that was flashed with the newest software and the TC fault disappeared.

Anyone know how to waterproof the ABS sensor thing to prevent another ECU explosion?
 

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The last 3 here were absolutely dry and hot, so I donth think mine is water related issue....

EDIT: Disconected the battery for a couple of hours - no effect. (thought it might clear a fault)
 

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I have traced the secondary throtle cable to the TC actuator motor which in my LHD 75 is at the top left corner. Correct?

I was able to open it and the cable seems correctly connected inside.
However I' now conect the strong, odd whiring sound when I turn the ignition key to this motor, I guess it positions itself or checks itself every time ones turn the ignition? Is that correct?

Today it seems a little different than usual.. the sound is a bit shorter.. like the motor doesn\t turn all the way.. Could that be a TC motor positioning problem.. any ideas what could cause it, or how can I further trace it?

The thing is that the only dealer in BG with testbook is 400 km away.. not to mention what a robbers they are.

Thanks
 

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Yep, the sound of the motor during start-up is definately different.
But I can hear it moving. Worn gear(tooth) wheel maybe or stuck throtle cable?..
I'll need a 2nd person to turn the switch while I observe..

I hope it is a mechanical fault.. is it possible that wrong sensor signals could cause it not turn properly..? I think not..

UPDATE: I've removed the cover of the motor, revealing the gear wheel and the attached cable, also removed the air filter cover and breathing hose, so I can see the butterfly.
When I turn the ignition key , I could see the motor turning, and the butterfly closing, but not all the way. Does any1 has an idea of whether it should close completely during check-up. SO far I am out of ideas... dead end.. maybe the next step would be to dismantle the motor itslef, to search for worn parts..

Anyone..?
 

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UPDATE:

It turned out the the gear wheel was worn indeed. Avtually It had 1 broken tooth and the broken plastic piece was stuck on the gear wheel, preventing it from turning all the way. Found this out by detaching the cable and turning the wheel by hand and screwdriver. Removed the plastick bit and now the TC is working again.

I guess that if more than one tooth on the gear wheel is broken it can be repaired by pouring some epoxid plastic type of glue.. (sorry for tha lack of terms in english, I hope you get it) and shaping it correctly after it dries and hardens... it would be a tricky job but it's worth a try as the new motor is expensive.

Hope I was helpfull
Cheers
 

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UPDATE:

After my initial repair through the inspection window the TC was passing the start-up check but after the TC system kicks it was sticking again.

So I've decided to risk and completely disasemble it..
As I've guessed there were additional broken cogs.
here are some pictures:

Opened it using a knife and small hammer.. going all around it:



The gears inside:


Cleaned the gears from rubbish and debries from the broken cogs:



Repaired the broken cogs with this stuff: (drilled tiny holes on the place of the broken cogs, so the glue could stick stronger..


3 broken in total:


Glued back the cover and now it works like a dream.
There was plenty of snow outside to try it today :)

Caution: occasional warning light could be the sign of starting wear-out. As the TC checks itself on every turn of the ignition key, the wearing could worsen and lead to more and more damaged gears.

Hope I've been helpful :)
 

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Thanks for taking the time to post with pictures. I have no problems with mine at the moment, but at least we can now connect early signs to a possible cause.
 

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I received the following question and decided that it could be useful to answer it here:

Hi again Peter
How did you disconnect the actuator motor cable that goes to the manifold intake?
Is it clipped in someway?
What should I look for.
Any tips welcome!
regards
McM

I am not sure that I can explain it well due to my poor technical English..
The cable can be disconnected through the inspection cover using small screwdriver. It will be easier if someone helps you, pushing down where the cable connects to the air intake valve.. thus there will be no tension by the cable and you will be able to do the tricky work easier. You could also detach the motor from its mounting by the 2 bolts underneath it, which are holding it in place. Using the small screwdriver - tuck it under the cable, twist and lift the round part with which it ends.. there is enough space to lift it up and unclip it.. After that you just unclip the cable's sheath from the motor and pull it out..

Cheers
 

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I just wanted to add that this repair job holds really well so far (touch a wood .. :URGOD: ).

Just a day after repairing it, the real winter cam in Bulgaria and since then there were more ice and snow conditions in my region that tha last 2 winters in total, so the TC worled really hard.


HINT: If you do this job, please take your time and shape the new cogs really really well and carefull, so that they fit exactly and move absolutely smoothly. Even the smallest tension could lead to breakdown :)

Cheers
 

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rover_75
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John Robertson Traction control

Hi all I had a problem with the traction control where the cable had broken sort the help of a dealer who wanted to charge $1400 to replace. Traction control is not so essential in Australia but I could not put up eith the warning sign.I opened flap of motor and saw that the cable was broken I removed cable with some difficuty and had a replacement made for $15 refitted it with the same difficulty but a lot of patience and all now works well. Some differance in the cost!!
 
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