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She called the AA and opted to have car recovered home rather than to a garage. About six years ago I fitted a new clutch to this car when the Thrust Bearing Broke up. Thinks... hydraulic problem?

About an hour later car home. Spoke to AA guy who was informative. He thinks the Metal Bracket which locates the Clutch Slave Cylinder has fractured and the Slave has escaped from its location. Heard about that happening to other owners with this kind of hydraulic clutch. If it is that, it's something I can fix.
I had a similar issue on my old ZS 120. The slave cylinder dislocated from the bracket (it's held on by a poxy plastic c-clip), the clutch failing on me outside Crewe train station, resulting in the pedal hitting the floor and unable to disengage the clutch. Ended up lashing the slave cyl onto the bracket using the cable ties. The plastic casing of the slave cyl had worn so wouldn't sit in the bracket properly, so used more cable ties as a more permanent solution.

I bought a brand new bracket which never got used. It needs a new home so let me know if you're interested.
 

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mg_zt_t
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Looks like just a broken Slave.. A relief!

Hi LeRich,

Today it stopped raining, sun came out and the wind died down so lifted the car's bonnet and had a look see. This is what I found. The AA Guy ... bless. ... see attached... used cable ties too but that part of the Slaves "Collar" had fractured allowing the Slave Cylinder to dislocate so was not effective. I found the broken bit of plastic on the bell housing. .

I also used a stout tube on the Clutch Release Shaft Crank and levered it to see if the Clutch ( which I renewed some years ago ) had also failed. Relieved to find that it was sound. Also the Metal Slave Bracket Housing looked like new and no signs of corrosion or fracture... had the 2003 car from new. So that is also another relief to observe.

Then it started to rain heavily again so I wasted no time getting the tools collected and in the dry. I know when the weather Gods have got it in for me so it can wait to Monday and hopefully more friendly car working on the outside weather.

Now off the car, I compared the Slave and its hose assembly with a good spare I have. They are identical so I will fit and bleed that instead. If that does not do the trick, I'll get a new Luk one... £42 on ebay posted. from GSF ... we have a local GSF branch and I'll get one from there if the used one does not do the trick.
 

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mg_zt_t
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Should have used 6 cable ties, then it would have held... ;)
... :)

My further investigations today including fitting a known good Slave assembly, indicate a worn MASTER.

I pick a new one up tomorrow.

Car is just drivable now but, having fitted Clutch Masters to my ZT-T ( Deep Joy ... NOT ) and two of my 620ti, my old bones do not fancy adding to that hat trick of upside down in the footwell mullarkey ... enough is enough.

Ongoing.
 

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mg_zt_t
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A real Blast from the distant 1970s past seen today.

Picked up my Luk Master Cylinder for my wife's MG ZS120 this morning. Nearby was one of those mobile roadside Burger / Sandwich vans and one of their customers had a J-Reg Morris 1800. The one with the transverse B-Series engine.

Got talking to the owner who was about my age. He told me he has three of these in his collection. I have seen an immaculate "Sandglow" ..?? ... coloured one running strong occasionally... maybe one of his. I took a couple of images... see attached.

Will update when the new Luk Master Cylinder Assembly has been fitted. Tried to start the engine this morning....CLICK-CLICK-CLICK ... Flat VARTA Battery now on charge. Five years old so.... :dunno:...It has showed signs of being worn out back when there was overnight frost ... more expense ... for my good lady.
 

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mg_zt_t
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Deep Joy..... a Happy ending.

Today took the MG ZS 120 and New Clutch Master Cylinder along to my friendly repair outfit I've used for the occasional job I do not fancy doing myself. Put my back out recently so upside down under the steering wheel in the driver's footwell best avoided at the moment. Past few months, have renewed clutch Masters on my ZT-T and both 620ti Ti. Hateful job on the ZT-T/75 as many will confirm too. So did not fancy adding to that particular hat trick ...

Car now has a fine clutch. I only drove it out of the repair unit a couple of hundred yards. Seemed fine. Then my good lady drove it the five miles home. She later confirmed the clutch is better than she can remember. We've had the 2003 car from new .... She followed me driving the ZT-T and gave the occasional thumbs up.

I was surprised how much the labour for this job was... a mere forty quid... a real bonus which my old back fully appreciates. There are some good folks out there who not only do a good job, but with reasonable charges too.

Just got in from refitting the Air Cleaner and its hose to the throttle body. Tapped out a few small leaves and tree seeds from the K&N too... another little job done. Not a difficult removal/refit job but saves a bit of labour. Every little helps.
 

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Cam position sensor replacement.

I was making a Good Friday excursion up to Glasgow, ~300 miles for me. Gave the car a good checkover before leaving, even bled the clutch as the fluid seemed contaminated.

We got as far as Preston before the ZS broke down - for the first time in the 14 years I've had the car.

Crawling through traffic at <20MPH, I initially thought it had overheated.

Symptoms:
  • Loss of power. Could not keep up with traffic at 20MPH.
  • Cannot rev in neutral. Peaks at less than 5,000 RPM.
  • Rough running and idling.
  • After pulling over, very difficult to start - eventually followed by no-start.
  • After one hour on the hard shoulder, it fired up and ran fine for ~2 miles before repeating.
  • Breakdown service discovered a P0340 code. Mine was 'pending' so no MIL.

A failing sensor is sensitive to heat so cooling down gets a few miles out of it - and in fact one of the Google results I found was another 180 owner on here.

A chap from Green Flag diagnosed the fault (as I'd left my code reader at home, despite having a boot full of tools), ordered me a new sensor from a nearby Euro Car Parts and helped us get to a hotel. It was 5pm when ECP took the order and it was in at 8am the next day. 5* reviews for Green Flag and Preston ECP.

The following morning I got a taxi to ECP, bought the sensor and a cheap code reader, taxi back to the car (dumped on the side of a residential street!), changed the sensor and drove around Preston for a bit, to get my confidence in it, before hitting the M6 again.

There was absolutely nothing I could have done to predict or test for the sensor failing; just one of those things.

Next job is the aux belt idler - the bearings went on the way home, though it did get us home! I'm considering doing a light overhaul of the engine, similar to the chassis work last year. It definitely needs VIS motors, I want to fit an oil catch tank, and it's time for cam belts again..
 

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mg_zs
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Created a lovely oil feature from the head/block join. New hg, new to me head.

I'd really appreciate an experienced view. First time ever opening up an engine. Pretty sure I followed things to the letter, but I now have a number of leaks from the head/block join.

Are there any accepted actions prior to pulling it all apart again?

I was, I thought, pretty fastidious on cleaning the faces, so are there any other easy to spot reasons for a leak?

It it worth nipping up the head bolts, or now that oil has seeped, will it always seep?

Thanks. And Argh. Upside, it ran, and didn't blow up.
 

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Created a lovely oil feature from the head/block join. New hg, new to me head.

I'd really appreciate an experienced view. First time ever opening up an engine. Pretty sure I followed things to the letter, but I now have a number of leaks from the head/block join.

Are there any accepted actions prior to pulling it all apart again?

I was, I thought, pretty fastidious on cleaning the faces, so are there any other easy to spot reasons for a leak?

It it worth nipping up the head bolts, or now that oil has seeped, will it always seep?

Thanks. And Argh. Upside, it ran, and didn't blow up.
Which engine is this, and how did you torque the head bolts? Tbh if you did it to the recommended settings, I'd risk nipping the bolts up, but only a little if they are the stretch bolts on the K engines. And I'm sure others will be along soon who wouldn't...

Are you sure it's not coolant weeping from the HG joint, if it's a K? If it's oil, the leak could be from somewhere else and settling there.
 

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Aux belt idler pulley changed.
Still noise - power steering pump now - so changed fluid as a first attempt before I order a pump.
CV gaiter split.
Broken front suspension spring.
Handbrake stuck on one side: the cam needed un-seizing inside the calliper.
Rear ARB bushes disintegrated.
New VIS motors.

And put the summer tyres on, so hopefully it's all fixed before winter.
 

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mg_zs
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Which engine is this, and how did you torque the head bolts? Tbh if you did it to the recommended settings, I'd risk nipping the bolts up, but only a little if they are the stretch bolts on the K engines. And I'm sure others will be along soon who wouldn't...

Are you sure it's not coolant weeping from the HG joint, if it's a K? If it's oil, the leak could be from somewhere else and settling there.
Its the 1800 K - thanks for the advice. I re-checked the bolts to make sure I'd not missed one - I had used 20nm +180 +180 but all were there. I added about 20 degrees more everywhere, but as you'd suggested, it seems it's coming from above and just collecting at hat corner. Prime candidate is the exhaust cam seal. Not the easy to get to one that's visible. Oh no. The one that needs the engine mount removing. Ugh.

Anyway, in more positive news, I have (deep breath)

Flushed the coolant using MGJohns Holts/dishwasher technique
Bought a new set of tyres all round
Added some seam seal, Bilt Hamber S50 and Dynax-UB up front
Washed the rear a little to see how bad it is rust wise (middling I'd say)
Sprayed cavity wax
Refitted the washer bottle, bumper and sideskirts
Somehow broken the horn (relay I think - I hear clicking, not beep-beeping)
Ordered a new exhaust trim
Heavily decontaminated the dash
Hoovered the whole cabin
Wet-cleaned the driver's seat
Replaced the gearknob
Ordered a pile of brake gear (disks, pads, hoses, fluid)
Booked it in for an hour's once over at the local garage
Started hunting for cheap windscreen fitters

Phew. Looking forward to driving it a bit.
 

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Its the 1800 K - thanks for the advice. I re-checked the bolts to make sure I'd not missed one - I had used 20nm +180 +180 but all were there. I added about 20 degrees more everywhere, but as you'd suggested, it seems it's coming from above and just collecting at hat corner. Prime candidate is the exhaust cam seal. Not the easy to get to one that's visible. Oh no. The one that needs the engine mount removing. Ugh.
The cam end seals on the cam belt side are harder to get to, best to do when doing the cam belt. On the gearbox side they are quite easy to replace. Sounds like you've done lots of stuff. Enjoy driving it!
 

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Fitted an oil catch tank. 10 years too late really given the damage to the plastics from the oil..!

Once I’ve cleaned the gunk out of the intake, I’ve got new VIS motors to fit. Although, if there are any issues with the butterfly valves in the manifold I’ll be shopping for a new one first.

There is no rattle so I’m hopeful. The car is just down on power and the kick doesn’t hit at 3,000 RPM but a random time afterwards, as if it’s sticking.

I’m determined to get the car back to factory performance.

UPDATE:
Fitted the new VIS motors with fresh seals. Lots of oil around the butterfly valve but the power valve motor was fairly clean. Manifold seems okay - the arm moves solidly. But while there's an improvement in power there isn't a hard kick at 3k RPM like before. We'll see how it goes. The car still shifts.

UPDATE 20/5/19:
Rather than post again I'll update this to add:
- Replaced the rear calliper that was causing the handbrake to stick. Loosening the cam off only worked for a short while, so for the sake of getting it perfect I replaced the lot.
- And replaced the reservoir pipe on my sheddist clutch kit - the rubber has finally perished. The correct replacement suitable for brake fluid is "EPDM Rubber Tube 9.5mm O/D x 6.3mm I/D"

Bled through both systems and all is good :)

UPDATE 23/5/19:
Well, the VIS kick is there. Don't know what or why but the day after writing the above it all came alive with that distinctive push as it goes over 3k. The car's got a fair bit more power low-down now. The old motor/valves were stuck in the >3k position. Hopefully that'll translate to better MPG as a bonus ;-)

UPDATE 04/06/19:
Yes, MPG is improved. I hit a figure that I've not reached since 2011. The fettling is working..
 

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Changed the clutch and pulley on the air conditioning pump.

The last of many noises from the engine, I found that the bearings had failed. I found a complete pump on eBay and swapped only the pulley, clutch and bearings over - which saved having the air con de- and re-gassed.

Process for the ZS180:
  1. Access the pump from behind the front wheel. Remove the one plastic screw to drop the inner arch liner and access is fairly good.
  2. Remove the 10mm bolt. Easier said than done - while it's not tight, you still have to stop the pulley rotating and there is no locking hole. I jammed a flat screwdriver against one of the three rivet heads.
  3. The front clutch part now pulls straight off the main shaft - might need some wiggling/forcing but only if stuck on the splines.
  4. There is a circlip holding the pulley on.
  5. Then the pulley can be pulled off. A puller is ideal, but it can be forced off with a hammer and some access.

If only the clutch/bearings have failed, refit the new parts now. The electromagnet that operates the clutch can be removed too now with one more circlip, but I found that I could not remove the screws holding the electrical connectors down! Since mine was working, I left it in place.

Results:

  1. Silent running again.
  2. Colder aircon! The clutch itself must have been slipping for years which is why the air was only mildly cooler. The material was basically gone. I would guess that the heat from the slipping contributed to the bearings failing (that, plus the 165k miles and 15 years on it).
 

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Replaced the rear crank seal and clutch.

Was all going well until I tried to drive away and found I couldn't actually get into gear. Strange, as I had tested it before completely finishing up and was able to get into first and spin the passenger hub (car still off the ground without wheels at that point).

Found a bit of fluid on the slave so I guess it took some damage.
 

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Yesterday:

1. Replaced the brake master cylinder (and therefore also a full brake fluid change).
The brake pedal starting sinking to the flood when under pressure - very disconcerting when approaching a junction! No air in the system and no leaks, so I assume seals failed in the master. On the test drive afterwards the brakes had better feel than I can remember so perhaps the investment is paying off!

2. Replaced the rear brake pads with TRWs. I wasn't happy with the old OEM ones which were barely five thousand miles old, as I'd fitted them on old discs, then changes the discs, so they weren't bedded in correctly (showing circles of rust on the discs where the pads weren't touching).

3. New rear anti-roll bar bushes, which included replacing the brackets as they were just two lumps of rust! The old bushes were solid where it mattered but obviously rotted and not had long left.
The brackets are no longer available, but a guy on Facebook MG/ZS forums is manufacturing his own and selling them. They seem good and it was a happy coincidence they came up when I needed them. The rest of the parts were OEM screws and clamps from Rimmers, and Powerflex bushes.
This was the longest, hardest and worst part of the job - LH was no problem, but the RH needed cutting off and re-assembly was difficult with the reduced access.

For today, I've got a PG1 linkage refurb kit and Powerflex bushes so hopefully I'll be able to update tonight about fixing the car's sloppy gear stick! At which point, it'll be perfect again - though.. the oil service is due and I'm planning on doing the cam belts myself, as the current belts are 10 years old now and I'm a glutton for punishment.

UPDATE:
No, didn't change the gear linkage bushes. The "easy to install" refurb kit neglected to mention that the old bush assemblies need grinding out. So I'll get the local garage to do that another day; it's not urgent.
 

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mg_zt_t
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Yesterday:

..............................so I assume seals failed in the master.......................

.
Puzzled why folks use the term "Fail" or "Failed" when a more accurate term surely should be ...

worn..or ... wear.

Nothing lasts forever and most things wear ...

Please take lots of images when you do the Belts and the Linkage Kit. I and no doubt many others will really appreciate seeing those. That way we all learn.
 

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Well, in this case ‘fail’ may be appropriate as I was driving with brakes and then driving without! Not quite that dramatic but something failed.

I will certainly endeavour to take photos when doing the belts. There are not many who’ve tried so there is a lack of information. Plus, when I have to push the car over to the local mechanic I’ll be able to explain in pictures where I messed up...

I may tackle the gear linkage again but I’ll have to get time on a lift or a pit. That’s a job I’d like to see photos of.
 

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And back to nOw2's ZS 180 show:

This evening, replaced the power steering high-pressure hose.

I'd snapped one up on eBay a few months ago, because mine has been slowly corroding away at the top pump-end for years and I knew it was going to fail eventually. They are VERY hard to get hold of and I was very happy to get a corrosion free example.

Cut to Monday evening: leaving work, I start her up and hear a whine and hiss. I guessed immediately that it was the power steering pipe, but it turned out to have failed lower down, at a join between two rubber sections. I got home 5 miles later with 20mm of fluid left in the reservoir - the power assistance was cutting out and it howled like a banshee... The trail of fluid is still in the works car park 5 days later (and still visible after torrential rain!).

Replacement was straightforward - one pipe union bolt at the rack end and a banjo bolt on the pump. The time consuming issue, as always with the KV6, is access.

Refilled, took a test drive, topped up again - all good.

See you all again soon when the next thing breaks..
 

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