Sounds like the job from hell n0w2 😔
So I've done it and yes this is the case - it's obvious when you think about it. Remove the top bolts on the drop links on both sides at the same time and the whole anti-roll bar rotates out of the way.I have not done the roll bar drop link bushes on this side, as the outer bushes are fine and the inner ones are split - so this needs to wait until I can change the inner bushes. I still don't know how to access them easily. Hmm, I wonder - if I released both drop links at the the same time? Would the whole bar move up out of the way? I didn't think to try that!
Aaand it's off.I am now stuck on removing the oil dip stick tube.
This is a picture of the dipstick fully inserted into the tube:The problem with checking the oil on a KV6 is the max level is insdie the dipstick tube, not in the sump, as the sump is so shallow.
My partner says I've spent a lot more than 12 hours on it..It's been a month, but total hours is probably around 12. I have limited free time, then it's doubly worse getting rained off when I get some time to do any work!
Excellent way to solve a problem. Well done, good clear image too. One question. What is a step drill? Is that a bit conical in shape so you can progressively enlarge holes to suit? Do not know what those are called.I fixed my clutch today.
Since i got the car in january the pedal goes almost the floor before you can get it in gear. Took the pedal off today to find the pivot that holds the slave cylinder arm on had ovalized both the clutch pedal casting and the slave arm causing about 3-4mm of play before the slave arm actually moves!
The original pivot was 8mm so i have used a step drill to drill both holes out to 10mm so they are now perfectly round, and refitted with an M10 bolt, and nylock nut.
Much better and free!
My dad says its as good as any of his Rovers which all have half the mileage of mine.